Chucktin
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Posts posted by Chucktin
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I HATE the placement of the Q button on my XPro 2 body. Wish Fuji had put it around the corner (to the right) some more. And you guys are complaining that it went away.
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My 18mm/f2 is back at Fuji for repair. Third time,third lens! Killing my enthusiasm for Fuji.
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I got my XPro2 to work with my Nikon F manual lenses. Did have to hunt down that "Shoot without Lens" setting! Generally I find Fuji's menu structure to be less than comfortable for me. But then I've been Nikon since school, 1960-ish.
Backyard Bluebirds with Nikkor f8/500mm mirror lens.
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Well drat it all. The 18mm f:2 quit again. WTF!? I wonder what Fuji will say this time.
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The Fujifilm website has most of what your wanting.
try this URL: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/
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Thanks
I'm working to figure this out. Funny these cards are faster enough in my Nikons just slow in my X Pro-2. I've done a reset of the shooting settings, but something's still eluding me. I love the Fuji for its size and weight. but the menu is clear as mud.
I've spent 10 of years with Nikon hardware and only 2-3 with Fuji so the intricacies of the Fuji menu leave me in the dust.
To help I've ordered a pair of faster SDs, Lexar 64 GB/1000X, for the Fuji - should help. Now I need to dig into the menu to see what the bleep is going on.
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I use Sandisk Extreme Pro 64 GB SD cards in both slots. They are also labeled 95 MB/s SD V30, XC I, U3 10. I can get 2-3 shots then the camera pauses. PITA, am I using too slow a card?
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Entirely wrong. Better low light performance is better electronic circuits with an advance in the signal to noise ratio ie better amplification.My Great Wish would actually for the next x-pro to have increased sensor pixel size, similar to sony's a7S. Downside is lower resolution images, but the better low light performance, plus possibly improved battery life, would be worth it imo.
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Hmm, Alien Skin Software's Exposure X3, Mac or Widows versions, about $199.00, free demo download.No tests as such but I have recently bought Alien Software's Exposure X3 and then I have got it to display and allow me to edit several folders with 350-500 images in each, RAF and DNG images from Fuji and Leica. The images load up quickly and editing is no issue speedwise. I ignored the old Lightroom backup and therefore all Lightroom adjustments.
That's as close as a test that I have gotten so far in my first week or two of using Exposure X3. Pictorial handles the import even faster, but does not have such vast array of tools for post-editing. It is good for images that need not much detailed work in post.
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I don't know Pictorial nor Alien Software Exposure X3. If they are faster they are worth a look. But do you know of actual test data? Say Lightroom vs Irident vs Pictorial vs X3 to convert RAFs to Tiff's? In a batch of 10, batch of 100, batch of 1000? (I'll say up front that converting 1000 has got to be a commercial event.)What is definitely not slow is Alien Software's Exposure X3, which is fast. So I have ended up with Pictorial and EXposure X3. Both I can get on with and I like the interface of these two.
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You are possibly SOL. I have seen this on bad SD cards before. You've got to remember that what you're seeing on the camera's LCD is a subset of the image that was recorded. I think that to speed up the raster processing Canon, Nikon, Fuji, Sony, etc all keep a boiler plate version of the SD card in nRAM then just paste in the thumbnail version of the image(s). Due to the position of the thumbnail in the image file this works for a while but after repeated views of the card's contents the refresh erases the path string and hence the image data. If you've still got the Raw image data you are Holden, if not ... "that's life".
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Thanks, setting up new Win 10 desktop, this should help.He wants to know how to stop the thumbnails showing Man.
The following should do it:
Open file Explorer, right click in a blank space. select "view" from the menu then choose what you want, in your case "details". Once details is set click the File tab in File Explorer . Click on "change folder and search options". The folder options window appears. click the View tab then look near the top for "Folder Views". Click on the "Apply to Folders" button. answer the question about whether you want to apply to all files with yes, click Apply and then OK.
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I shoot RAW + Jpegs but only cause wifie hates to process Raw files. Sorry to tell you but I'm betting you have to shoot Raw files plus process the sky as an extra step to bring out stars.I think yeah. How can I avoid this from happening again? The settings for my picture is in either Fine or Normal but definitely not Raw. Should I just use Fine+Raw or Normal+Raw instead? Tried adjusting the highlights and shadows but the stars still won't show
I'd import into PS thru Bridge 2 copies of the same image. Copy 1 I'd adust in Raw for the foreground exposure (that washes out the sky), copy 2 I'd adjust in Raw to bring out the stars.
Then I'd sandwich the 2 with the sky over the foreground, _dupe_ both layers, add another (layer 5) foreground, fill bottom layer with white _only_, this will layer is handy for cropping.
Now you got bottom to top, white canvas, foreground (hide this), Sky (hide also), foreground 2, Sky 2.
Now hide the sky and work on Forgound - color, brightness, etc. DO NOT correct size or perspectives yet! Switch to Sky, color, brightness, etc.
Switch back to foreground, hide sky. Select the elements you like, own tool or lasso, etc. Invert the selection and delete. DO NOT Deselect yet. Switch to Sky, invert and delete. Save that selection just in case. Save as PSD at this point.
Now if you're happy you can merge to processed foreground + sky and correct the size and perspective. The white canvas may show thru to enhance the stars but I've found it useful at the perspective correction above.
Happy again? You did work on copies, not originals, didn't you? Flatten, sharpen for print or view, save as Tiff, save as JPEG. Done.
That's a work flow I adopted, painfully, YMMV of course. Happy Phtoshopping.
Cvt
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Are you using jpegs?
Jpegs "simplify" shadows (can you say night sky?) then highlights for the sake of compression.
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Be warned - if you are concerned about copyrights (yours), not only can metadata be stripped, and a lot of sharing sites do that, but recent news includes an article about software that strips out watermarks unless you can randomize it sufficiently. And the beat goes on ...
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The title of the software says "Raw". Add that to it makes fir a bigger market if the software can work with (at least) recent cameras and you have an answer.I'm getting the impression that the brand new X RAW Studio is only for the newer Fuji X cameras. Is this so or are all Fuji X models able to use it to one degree or another?
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ThanksThe number of exposures you can expect from a fully charged battery.
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I'm not certain I see the utility of software that uses the camera to convert.
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Lots of that, "lightning"strikes showed up in motion footage post WW2 in cold dry climes. If memory serves Life or Look even featured it as part of a article on IGY at the South Pole.Larry, that's an interesting input. And of course photographers would always have a second body loaded and ready, when shooting at that rate.
Noting your location, here's an aside that may amuse: in the late 70's, I was working in a photographic retail store in Edmonton Centre. Very low humidity and lots of nylon carpet in the store, so static shocks were frequent.
These shocks killed three brand new Pentax ME's just from being picked up from the display cabinet before we figured out what was going on; on one occasion (you learned to hold a key between your forefingers), just touching the cash register triggered it to ring up a $100,000 sale and open the drawer.
But the weirdest thing (and one I'll take some credit for solving) was when a couple of photographers that I knew who were shooting for the Edmonton Journal kept encountering 'lightning strikes' across their negatives. This turned out to be caused by the automatic rewind in their Nikon's zipping the film back into the cassette so fast that it generated static shocks from the plastic film base passing through the 35mm canister's light blocking flocking (could not resist that) so quickly.
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What is that number? Exposures/battery?I looked up CIPA (Camera & Imaging Products Association) data on mirrorless cameras and made a selection of them. Being tested by an independent body, they should be much relative to one another if not absolute in real-world use.
Fujifilm XA3 - 410
Fujifilm X100F - 390
Fujifilm XT-20 - 340
Sony Alpha a6500 - 350
Sony Alpha a7R II -290
Canon EOS M10 - 255
Nikon 1 J5 - 250
Olympus PEN E-PL8 - 350
Panasonic Lumix DC-GH5 - 410
As long as camera makers concentrate on compactness and light-weight, the situation will continue. Battery grips are somewhat of a solution, but large bodies and heavy batteries are pretty much dictated to get dSLR performance.
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I'd guess "compatible" software depends on who pays what to whom.According to the image below, 4.00 will have both tethered and Wi-Fi shooting.
It also says
(whatever the *means)
Can someone explain how the workflow will most likely look like for
- tethered shooting
- Wi-Fi shooting
- Will it only work with X Acquire?
- Will I be able to transfer both RAW and JPEG?
- Is macOS fully supported?
- How much time does it take to transfer one RAW or one JPEG image tethered or with Wi-Fi?
I don't use Lightroom, I use Capture One. It has a feature called "hot folder" where it watches a folder for new incoming images and displays them immediately.
5. Will I be able to select a folder on the file system of my laptop, where the images are transferred to?
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I am putting together a new computer setup. Maxed the RAM, Turbo this, SSD that, etc. So I'll be needing to move my CC subscription over and maybe add a Raw converter.
I shoot Raw+Jpegs and when I last tried a CC/Camera Raw conversion I looked for and found the worms. I was using the defaults.
Previously I had tried SilkyPics (who chose that name and why?) and Capture 1. Was not impressed with either.
Once I get rolling with new setup I'll try Luminar, ON1, Irident, whatever. See what seems smoothest to me.
I am not brand loyal, to Adobe, just only one I've used going on 10 years.
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Yep, seems to be a gooder. Random picture of our living room.
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My lens, 18mm f2, has been replaced, no charge. Now to see if this one works.
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Fujifilm X Pro 3 Stuck In Optical Viewfinder Mode
in Fuji X-Pro 1 / Fuji X-Pro 2 / Fuji X-Pro 3
Posted
I guess you mean your purchase was thru B&H.
But I doubt you want to do that. Have you tried a reset back to factory configuration? BE WARNED - THIS WILL NULLIFY ANY PERSONAL CONFIGURATION CHANGES YOU MAY HAVE MADE.
On my X Pro 2 there's a menu selection -> USER SETTING -> RESET.