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sandroamt

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Posts posted by sandroamt

  1. Hey guys!

    I'm going to Iceland at the end of August and for that journey I'm looking for a (manual) tele lens in the range from 85mm to 100mm...

     

    29378001244_d82db099cf.jpg

    Streets #1 / Iceland with X100T

     

    I would really like to have the Fujinon 90mm but I think it's too expensive for me at the moment (Iceland will also...)

     

    As you see in the title I want to use the lens only for landscapes so I don't need a fast lens. It's just important that the corner sharpness is high enough for the 24mp sensor and the CAs should be easy to remove afterwards.

     

    If you have any recommendations for me - let me know! :)

     

     

    Have a nice Sunday and many greetings from Hamburg!

    I own a Nikkor 85mm f/2 ai.

    There is some little spherical aberrations at f/2; Pretty usable from f/2.8 good from f/4 to f/8; a little diffraction starts to be from f/11

    I use it with x-t10 so 16Mp... I've no idea how it behave with 24Mp sensors!

  2. The one I've ended up using myself is called Viltrox—nope, I've never heard of them before, either—and I picked them up after a fellow local X-shooter lent me his set. They're on Amazon, just search for Viltrox on whichever version of Amazon is relevant for your country. Two others I can recall were called Fotga, who make several Fuji accessories and theirs worked fine, and a set I can't remember the brand name of but their metal parts had funky red anodising, so they should be easy to spot.

    I've tried five third-party sets in all and not noticed a problem with any of them, but for the life of me I can't remember the names of the other two. AF worked fine, exposure metering worked fine, all feel equally secure. The Fuji ones have  slightly nicer paint finish to them, obviously, but that's all that the premium price gives you.

     

    I guess I should add, in the interest of fairness, that this doesn't just go for Fuji. Extension tubes are one of the easiest and cheapest accessories to make, for any mount, so there's no point buying official Canon/Nikon/Sony/etc ones, either.

    Thanks a lot for your useful information! I'll give it a try

  3. Just as an added note, don't bother with Fuji's own extension tubes. There's no glass in an extension tube, and Fuji's AF system is such a simple focus-by-wire arrangement that there's no downside to using a third-party set of extension tubes. The Fuji ones cost about 3-and-a-bit times as much for one tube as a set of two third-party ones costs, and having tested out both the Fuji extension tubes and several third-party versions, I've found no difference in AF speed. The only difference I've noticed is the smallest Fuji tube is 11mm, while the smallest third-party tube is 10mm. That's it. If you buy the two Fuji tubes you're paying basically 6.5x more more for what is actually a fractionally less versatile set.

     

    Edit: While I'm thinking of it, it's wise to not buy any of Fuji's own accessories, other than the teleconvertors for the zooms and the wide/tele convertors for the X100. Everything else contains no glass and no reason to pay Fuji's massively inflated prices.

    hello aceflibble,

    would you kindly point me to some third party macro extension tube for fuji x series you successfully did try?

    I saw this: http://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B014EV3Q4W/ but I scared due to awful user review!

    thanks Sandro

  4. Just guessing...

     

    it could be related to the phase vs contrast focus:

    phase focus may NEED full open in order to differentiate light arriving to the sensor from different directions

     

    I did try:

    camera on tripod aiming at a window whith some object in the dark; if you use the spot in the central area (phase detect) aiming the spot at the dark object, to check the focus the display overexposes.

    After I turned a little bit the camera and I shifted the spot focus to a lateral zone (contrast detect) aiming the spot at the same dark object and now checking the focus the display do not overexposes.

  5. 2. same problem here... I answer in your other thread too...

    3. shutter speed can be changed if not set to Auto (main speed dial set +/- something or setting the main speed dial to T full-range of time or so...)... locked  function (not customizable) for turning it!  (I use iso for that fn button... but THE fn button is "the PRESSING" not "the turning" ;) )

    Let me add that so you have overloaded functions to the same dial: just turn and change shutter speed; press+turn and change the ISO

  6. Same slow down problem here but I didn't try extensively before the update!

     

    Anyone know if it is possible AND safe to downgrade to an old firmware?

    (I saved various update somewhere in the computer! I miss only the stock firmware)

     


    my "numbers:

    xt-10 latest firmware (9 june 2016)

    xc-16-50 latest firmware (9 june 2016)

    mechanical shutter speed 1/250

    ISO 400

    Dynamic Range 100

    F3.5

    Face Detect OFF

    Auto focus ON

    Spot Autofocus

    Auto focus settings c-autofocus priority -> release (this can make some difference too)

    SanDisk micro SD + adapter to SD 16 GB HC1 Class 10

    RAW+F+L3:2

    => 7 fast shots + last  8th shot about a second after I released the shutter due to the slow-down

     

  7. Handy! For example when customising the Fn buttons and the Q menu it is useful to know which functions can be assigned to the Q menu and which have to be assigned to an Fn button. I made that list myself but have not seen it printed anywhere else.

     

    Original fuji full manual pag. 41 (Q-menu); pag 42 (Fn buttons); pag. 85 (all possible custom profile settings)

     

    Anyway, this one it is a useful quick guide ;) thanks!

  8. I've just updated both my x-t10 and my lens firmware and  I've noted... no particular sensible "enhances the accuracy of Manual focus adjustment" but surely I'm an insensible dumb ;)

    For the "improvement of OIS function" I'm not able to judge because I forgotten to do some OIS trial just before the update!

     

    Anyway for the next firmware update, I would like, when using the "self timer", if you use the single auto-focus, then the camera should focus just when you press the shutter button (as already she do...);

    BUT if you use the continuous auto-focus then it could be nice to focus merely continually or at least just before shooting and NOT when you press the shutter button (currently the continuous auto-focus is disabled when using the self timer)
     
    Note: the "interval timer shooting" (time-lapse) already behave in a similar way but the minimum "start waiting time" is 0 or 1 minute so either you have to wait too much or take a "fake first shoot"
  9. I found Raw Therapee + HALD CLUT profiles + right camera ICC profiles the best combination so far, and is free software! Suits my taste and with a bit of practice it produces results almost identical with OOC JPGS in terms of color rendering with the advantage of Raw editing. The only downside is that above 2500 ISO the other coverters do a better job but I rarely go so high.

     

    Inviato dal mio Nexus 5 utilizzando Tapatalk

     

    old thread... I know, but hope you are still following:
    where did you find the "right camera ICC" you mentioned?
    I searched for a while but don't seems fujifilm provide it, it does? (I'm looking for x-t10 and x-t1 ICC)
    regards
    Sandro
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