bffmike
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Posts posted by bffmike
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Just chiming in, turn off/on error is gone for me as well.
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"Base" should really be called "Current" since it reflects your current settings. If you select another setting such as C1, you don't switch to that setting, instead those settings are COPIED to your "Base". So you can't switch back to "Base" settings because they don't really exist, it's whatever your current settings are.
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You're not the only one. I like it too. Let's form a club.
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Especially love the light on that shack in #2.
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It's a firmware fix that will be rolled out with the next official firmware update.
Do you have a source for this?
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We sound similar - M6, Df, X100 (s in my case) - the works.
I'm curious about your comment regarding the usability of the 23 on your XP2. I'm considering selling off my NEX7 kit and moving to an XP2 with 35/2, 60 and hopefully the rumored 23/2 if it happens. Can you expand on that comment?
Because of the size of the 23mm f1.4 R, the end of the lens intrudes into the 35mm bright lines obscuring a small portion on the bottom right of the OVF. It's annoying, but it's why I want Fuji to do a smaller 23mm f2. I don't think the 35mm has this problem as it tapers off on the front end and the bright lines are smaller in the OVF.
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The main reason I'd want this lens is so that I can get a 35mm equivalent lens on an X-Pro2 that doesn't block the OVF. WR, R would be gravy.
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I would get it exchanged. My dial isn't loose, so if yours is it's a manufacturing problem.
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From a street photography perspective, if I'm in a crowd, a party, a festival, or indoors the 23mm is better as it's easier to fill the frame in those situations. If you're just walking on an uncrowded street it becomes more awkward to shove a camera into someone's face, and you may be shooting from across the street, so I find a 50mm better. Of course this is just in general. There are cases where you'd do the exact opposite of what I mention, but I've found those situations to be the exception.
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I liked Gariz cases for a while, had them on my X100 & OM-D E-M5 MkII. But, recently, looked away.. not because of quality.. I think it can vary depending on camera model, but design choice.
a) essentially a 1/4 case cause it only covers the front and bottom - yes, it makes accessibility to doors, buttons and screen easier, but it just doesn't look complete and if you think about it, it doesn't really provide any sort of protection .. not likely front of camera will get damaged because you will have a lens on the camera most of the time and the lens is more likely to take brunt of any frontal damage.. the bottom, but that's just the bottom of the camera.
not a fan of shiny metal bottom plate.. they should have it in black or just cover it with leather as well... btw, they do make a black label version on some of their cases with black metal plate, but not on these ones.. maybe a little later?c) frankly boring color choices: black & brown.. ok, maybe the tan colored one is a little more exciting, but I still personally wouldn't go for those colors for my x-pro2.
I have a bit of a different opinion. I like cases primarily because of how it changes how the camera feels in my hand. It feels like less of a cold machine and a bit more like an instrument. Also for street, you can pick any color you want as long as it's black
The Gariz is nice because its stitching is also black, and the back is completely open and doesn't get in the way of the interface. It is protected less but I'm pretty careful with the camera so it's not really for protection in my case. I do have a protector on my screen for scratches, but I don't mind scratches anywhere else. I mean if your camera doesn't look battered then you're not using it enough, right? -
Okay......may I ask if these may be gender specific groups? Just trying to understand...
Might be, they're all women in my case.
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I don't get the high instax sales. It seems to appeal to teens....
I have three friends, all non-photographers, that own an Instax, none of them teens. They're fun at parties.
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Signed up just so i can give you guys an update.
Fuji Singapore returned me my Xpro 2 stating that they were unable to resolve the issue as it was firmware based - i have the on/off error coupled with black frame (only fella in my country it seems - bloody luck of the draw) [ At least they are confident that the issue is software and not hardware based - which seems reasonable seeing how some people have had the issue recur even with replacement sets).
Initially i had heat issues as well but that seems to be resolved by my local Fuji Technician.
Fuji Singapore also has information that a firmware update for this issue is due very, very soon - possibly by end April.
*fingers crossed then*
If this is a software-based problem than that's great news! First time I've heard it isn't a hardware problem.
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This is really strange, thank you for sharing it. Can someone check this workaround, since my camera is still in service center, waiting for replacement. I might use it for the new one, since with Pro2 it is always like with Kinder - Surprise.
I've said this before but I only use OVF and it's happened on both of my X-Pro2's.
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As someone as myself who enjoys street photography I'm starting to get more and more interested in the Xpro2 instead of waiting for the XT2 with its huge EVF (already existing in the X-T1).
Kinda difficult to decide right now. If I get the Xpro2 I just hope I will master and enjoy the OVF and feel it's worth the trade off of bigger EVF and flip out screen.
I wonder if the XPRo series are less attention drawing than the XT series with their SLR form which on the other hand are slightly smaller.
Honestly I can't tell the difference between the reactions I get when shooting an XP2 vs. XT1. However, I do know that the OVF makes me feel more connected to the scene so I tend to be braver. Also, don't discount the XT1/2's flip-out screen. It helps you to be more discreet on the street. However, I prefer a more direct shooting style and tend to want people to know that I'm photographing them. I guess it makes me feel like I'm being less creepy
Also the OVF takes some getting use to since it's less precise than the EVF. You have to be willing to let go of some control to like the OVF, but that's something I find quite freeing. E.g., with the EVF I find myself being concerned that I nailed the exposure, whereas since the OVF makes that a bit harder I tend to not worry so much. In those cases where I feel I really need to nail exposure or framing, the EVF is just a toggle away. -
Terrific. Just curious, did you use ovf to anticipate?
Absolutely, I love the OVF. This shot didn't need much anticipation, but usually I'll watch a scene with my left eye and when it goes into the OVF I'll watch with my right eye as the subject crosses into the brightlines. I went from an x100s->X-T1->X-Pro2 and found I was really missing the OVF on the X-T1.
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In bright daylight, I'll be at f/11, and either zone focused if I'm aiming at a wall and hyperfocal otherwise (this is with the 23mm). Because of this I don't tend to need to manual focus, and I hardly ever use autofocus.
Although I'm not intrusive, I'm pretty shameless when I point my camera; I don't try to hide it. In fact, I try to make it obvious that I'm taking photos in an area and pretty soon people just ignore me. I don't try to be a fly on the wall as I imagine that would make me seem even more creepy. If someone gives me the stink eye, I'll actually engage them in a conversation, which they're never expecting. I have had a few cases where people ask me not to take pictures of them where in fact I wasn't taking pictures of them; they just assumed I was. One of them said that she knew for a fact people were paying me to take pictures of them. Not quite sure how to handle those situations, but maybe next time I'll just take a nice close-up of them so as to make sure they're not liars.
As far as aesthetics, I believe street photography is first and foremost a visual art and therefore should strive to incorporate composition, but beyond that it should have emotional impact. I don't prescribe for myself whether subjects should be shot close-up, in the distance, fill a frame, or even be facing the camera. Just as long as it has emotional impact. If there's something on a person that's interesting to me, I try to get that thing, whether it's an arm, their pants color, whatever, to fill the frame instead of shooting their entire body.
I look through my viewfinder a lot but try not to press the shutter unless I know I've got a shot. In fact I usually feel pretty proud of myself when I don't take a shot since I have a pretty itchy trigger finger and use to take a bunch of crap where I figured maybe I'd luck out. I usually never luck out. Even if I did luck out, it was luck that got the shot, not my skill.
On a related note, I don't take hip shots. Even if I get a good shot with a hip shot, I don't feel satisfied because it was luck, not skill, that got the shot. Also, I use to feel like I was chickening out when I did take hip shots in the past. This is different than, say, using the flip-out screen on an X-T1. You're still composing so I consider it fine, no different than using something like a Rolleiflex.
I try to smile and acknowledge people I shoot in an area, or even people I don't shoot but make eye contact with. I continue to smile when I put the camera to my face. The rangefinder-style camera helps here because they can actually see me smile.
I dress casual, but not sloppy, and definitely not like a professional photographer. I don't carry a camera bag. I walk around looking at stuff like I'm a tourist. I randomly point my camera at far off buildings to make it seem like I'm shooting them. If anyone asks, I'm a photography student, which for the most part is true.
I think that pretty much sums it up. Would love to hear other people's techniques.
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For single images every now and then it works fine. I pretty much use it if I take a photo of someone and they want a copy of it, so I transfer it to my phone and send it. If you're importing to a laptop or desktop, a wire (or dedicated SD slot) will always be much faster than wireless.
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I don't use a bag. X-Pro2, 35mm, f/8 & be there.
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For those of you that are getting the error, do you happen to have a screw in soft release installed on the shutter button?
Nope, naked shutter button here.
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I don't have the latest firmware update for the X-Pro2, but I can say I've noticed the power not immediately turning back on once I've just turned off the camera. I only notice this when I try to quickly turn off and on the camera immediately. When done too fast, It doesn't turn on.. so, i have to turn the switch off then on again and it turns back on.
I have to try again, but I think if you wait a little after having just turned off the camera, it will turn on immediately when you turn the switch to on.
I think this is just a Fuji X thing. My X100s did the same thing. Not a big problem though if you remember to give it a sec before you turn it back on.
not a fan of shiny metal bottom plate.. they should have it in black or just cover it with leather as well... btw, they do make a black label version on some of their cases with black metal plate, but not on these ones.. maybe a little later?
The Gariz is nice because its stitching is also black, and the back is completely open and doesn't get in the way of the interface. It is protected less but I'm pretty careful with the camera so it's not really for protection in my case. I do have a protector on my screen for scratches, but I don't mind scratches anywhere else. I mean if your camera doesn't look battered then you're not using it enough, right? 
Survey: Fuji X-T2 or Fuji X-Pro2?
in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20
Posted
X-Pro2, because it is "Pro" and not just a measly "T".
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