Saibot

Just to circle back on this. It was defective and had to be returned. Man, that was annoying. I changed the battery and it dumped its settings just before a shoot which caused me to shoot JPG's instead of RAW. Had to reshoot. Grumble... If yours are still doing it, send it in for repair.

I win! Thanks all, here's the update. Great thought on water breaking down the gelatin. I tried alcohol at first and it didn't keep it "soft" long enough. I found some very thin but tight gun cleaning patches that I was able to get underneath the meter/shutter speed dial and drag back and forth with a spot of hot water that did the trick. For the command dial I cut small strips of the patches and folded them around small strips I cut from a soda can to get to that area, again with the hot water. Working great now. Appreciate the help!

Thanks for the idea, bhu! I was thinking about trying to hold it near the nozzle of a boiling tea kettle as the source. I'm a little worried about the heat though. Think a very light stream would still be too hot? I was also thinking about a very small amount of some very thin oil. If I can't get it out, perhaps I can at least keep it from staying a solid. Thoughts?

Well, it's kind of a long story, but a wayward Jell-o shot found it's way into the controls of my new X-T2. Although I was able to get most of it out and the shutter speed/photometery dials and moving again, the rear command dial is problematic. Any ideas how to get that out of there? I tried a cleaning patch soaked in water, but just can't get it in there, specifically the top side of the dial. Any ideas?

Actually, not silly at all since LR is not static. That was the entire reason for this post, I've found that over time, the sharpening in LR has not only become awful, but causing otherwise good images to look worse because of the tool. I do not consider myself a pixel peeper at all, but noticing the strange texture in my portraits has sent me down this path. I have noticed that if the portrait is very highly lit with a low ISO, LR's sharpening and PB's settings work well. At higher ISO's, things fall off quickly. If there is noise or grain, it squirts artifacts all over the image to the point of taking away from the image. Moving from LR to Capture One is not a trivial task. I spent 1-2 hours a day learning the tool and verifying what it can/can't do over the last month. LR wins on a lot of fronts, but when it comes down to pure picture quality, Capture One wins by a very large margin. Enough so where I'm willing to go through the pain of switching and having a less efficient workflow. For me, the image quality takes precedence.

Well shoot. Just dumped setting again during a battery change. Looks like a lemon. sigh....

Just thought I'd pass along one other thing I've noticed. I opened LR5 up since it was still on my computer and has (had) the same catalog and viewed the same photos in LR5 and LR6 at the same time. LR6's sharpening (at least for Fuji RAW files) is much, much worse than LR5. So it looks as if Adobe made some change along the way that is horrific. Do I call Adobe? Or is that wasted effort? Sigh...

Thanks, r_kt for the response! It dumped it's settings a bunch of time, but was just the C1-7 profiles and such. Looks like it was a known issue fixed in firmware. I upgraded to 2.0.2 and it dumped EVERYTHING again, but hasn't done it since then, so I think (hope) it's all fixed now. Fingers crossed.

BTW, the version I'm using is 10.0.2.33.

I just picked up a X-Pro2 and set it up to shoot compressed RAW files since I read the new version of Capture One supports them. But when I go to the import section, none of the compressed RAW files appear in the list of photos to import. Is there a setting somewhere on the camera or CO that I need to use to see/import them? Thanks!

I picked up a new X-Pro2 yesterday and I think I have a problem with it. When I turn it on, it occasionally requires me to go through the initial setup menu where I have to select the language and set the time/date. It's happened 4 times already. Think it's a lemon? BTW, I upgraded the firmware from 1.00 to 2.0.1 and it did it afterwards as well. Thanks!

Thanks, all for the feedback! I have to agree, LR does allow me to get a ton done quickly, but since I'm not shooting Canon/Nikon, the quality just isn't there, and it seems that it's getting worse if my sharpening issues are an indicator. I pulled down a trial of Capture One and it has promise. The image quality is noticeably better, but I'm not sure the workflow is as efficient as LR. It's probably too soon to say, I'm still learning it. Appreciate the help!

I recently upgraded my LR version from 5 to 6 (6.8 and CR 9.8) and noticed that my sharpening looks awful. I added presets from here that drive the detail slider to 100%: https://www.lightwith.me/sharpening-and-fujifilms-x-trans-sensor/ Has anyone noticed this as well? Still using my X-E2 and shooting RAW like always, but just about any sharpening starts to look like a mosaic at 100% zoom. Any tips?

Thanks guys for the links! Looks like the body is not on sale without buying a lens. If I hadn't recently purchased the 35 f2 I'd probably bite, but looks like I'll have to wait a bit for the body to go on sale. Don't...want...to...wait...

Thinking about getting a X-Pro 2 and looking for a good deal. Any idea when they might go on sale? What might I expect to pay in the US? Thanks all.

Thanks, Username. That makes sense. I wonder if the lens has issues? Or is this common with this lens (when shooting at f2.0)?

I just picked up a XF35 f2 and have been shooting with it exclusively for the last week to get to know it's personality, etc. Initially I thought it to be less sharp than I expected, but noticed that it seems to be sharpest just in front of the focus point. I always shoot with the focus point manually selected and as small as possible, so I'm sure of the point before I release the shutter. I'm going to try to shoot some tests down a tape measure to see if I can confirm, but wanted to ask the experts here to see if that's a known issue with the lens, or perhaps I have a dud. I know with some bodies/lenses you can adjust their focus point to account for manufacturing tolerances, but wasn't sure if that is possible with the Fuji bodies/lenses. Any thoughts?

It looks like this is a known issue with that lens. The circuit ribbon's adhesive allows it move which prevents the contacts from riding along their path correctly. Looks like it'll need to go back to Fuji for repair. Anyone know how long the warranty is for the lenses? FYI, any DIY'ers check this out: http://www.fujix-forum.com/threads/fujinon-60mm-f-2-4-aperture-ring-problem-and-repair.43737/

I tried to use my 60mm 2.4 and noticed that the aperture ring doesn't track properly and after F8 it goes to A. Has anyone seen this before? Damaged? Or some setting that I have overlooked? Body - X-E2 - v3.00 firmware Lens - v3.1 firmware Thoughts and suggestions welcome!

Ahhh. Thanks for the info!

Meter and press the Exposure Lock button?

Rico, I was wondering how you get the screen shots of the Fuji's screen for you book. Can these things take a screenshot? I would love to be able to do that and show things to poeple when trying to explain some setting we're discussing. Thanks

Granted I haven't gotten my paws on the 16 yet, the 14 has been a great little lens for me, fast and light. And at 14, it's the right tool for the job when I need that kind of focal length. When I saw the light writing pictures posted with the 21/14, it remided me of this picture I took with my 14. I know that we lump the 14 and 16 into the same category, but at the end of the focal length, there is quite a bit of difference. Sometimes you can't back up anymore, and the 14 *is* wider, so perhaps have both? The right tool for the job and all. Just as an example, I'm not sure I'd like this image as much if it were taken with the 16. Just a quick note about this picture. My daughter was frightend by a thunderstorm, so we hid from it under a blanket. I was surprised at how much light that little iPad was putting out and grabbed my camera to snap a picture of my thunder buddy.

Wait, you can clean these things? Unless I see dust in an image, I don't even bother. I had to break down and actually dig out a lens pen recently since my 1 year old, who was keenly intersted in my camera, managed to get the lens cap off of my 56mm 1.2 and had his way with it. Funny to watch, but the slobber and fingerprints were way beyond even my threshold of lens filth. I don't abuse my gear, but for me at least, it's all just a means to record memories, and just a comsumable. I do expect the glass to last longer than a few bodies, but I'm not afraid to put the stuff in harm's way. I have an insurance policy that costs me about $40USD a year to transfer the risk, and not fear damage/loss in my desire to record my memories. And to be honest, I'd act no differently if they weren't insured. For the obsessive, I think you’re more likely to harm a lens by over cleaning it. Lens coatings are somewhat delicate and every time you wipe a lens you roll the dice on damaging it. A single unseen grain of sand under the softest of microfiber wipes will be the death knell of that lens, so is it worth risking it for a speck that isn’t visible in the image? Up to you to decide. In full disclosure, I did once use a can of compressed air to touch up a (Canon) lens that I sold. I wound up filling that sucker with dust and had to have it disassembled and cleaned. I’m a huge fan of the Rocket Blaster now. Just my 2 cents... And one final side note, as much as these lenses may be dust magnets, the bodies seem to repel dust. 1.5 years, coutless lens changes, and 30k shots later, not once have I needed to clean my sensor. I think dust prefers Canon sensors. And I thought I'd post this snapshot of my son nom'ing my 16-55's lens cap. I think of all my lens caps and hood, this one must taste the best.

Who knows if it is a Fuji leak, but it would be brilliant way to distribute it and not have to pay for the bandwidth from the CDN’s! …just saying.