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Stop The Waxing!


Jano

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  • 2 weeks later...

that's great but how does this help ppl who have an xt-1 or xt-10? I really don't want to buy the xpro-2 just to avoid the waxy skin tones b/c if that is the only option then i'd rather go back to my Nikon full frame where this isn't even an issue. 

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that's great but how does this help ppl who have an xt-1 or xt-10? I really don't want to buy the xpro-2 just to avoid the waxy skin tones b/c if that is the only option then i'd rather go back to my Nikon full frame where this isn't even an issue. 

 

There is a very simple fix: if you go above ISO 1600 use raw format or raw + JPEG. So, whenever there is a problem with the JPEG, use the raw. Problem solved.

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Guest Ridgeback

 

And in case you care about typos: it's thread, not fred ;-)

 

:lol: I care about typo[graphical error]s so much that I can reveal a little secret to you: Using 'fred' instead of 'thread' is not a typo but the use of a homophone (any good encyclopedia will clue you in on both counts). Non-American native English speakers (mainly Brits, Aussies and Kiwis) often enjoy playing with their fabulous language.

 

So, sadly your little schoolmasterly correction is completely misplaced. Better luck next time, eh?

 

But cheers for contributing further to the humour of this thread. :D

 

Edit: orthography.

Edited by Ridgeback
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You can't use RAW over 6400 ISO.  For those who want to shoot in very low light, at 12800 or 25600, it is a problem.

Just under expose by how ever many stops you need, and "push" the images by using in-camera raw development. It's the same thing you would get from JPEG at Extended ISO, but you get to keep your RAW file also in case you want to develop it later.

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If you underexpose you loose one of the big advantages of mirrorless cameras that the view finder shows the exposure bevor you pull the trigger.

 

I agree, that using RAW is the best to do when you want to drive the sensor to its limit. So I never understood why Fuji decided to make the highest ISOs JPEG only on the older cameras and why it needed so many years and a new camera to change it. The only thing I can think of is that they were afraid of too much noise in the view finder.

 

Edit: unwanted characters removed.

Edited by Jürgen Heger
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:lol: I care about typo[graphical error]s so much that I can reveal a little secret to you: Using 'fred' instead of 'thread' is not a typo but the use of a homophone (any good encyclopedia will clue you in on both counts). Non-American native English speakers (mainly Brits, Aussies and Kiwis) often enjoy playing with their fabulous language.

 

So, sadly your little schoolmasterly correction is completely misplaced. Better luck next time, eh?

 

But cheers for contributing further to the humour of this thread. :D

 

Edit: orthography.

 

Yeah, writing me a personal message telling me how stupid I am and then not replying to my answer but instead writing another post about how stupid I am. What's wrong with you?

 

It seems you didn't see the smiley I wrote and instead felt personally attacked by me being "schoolmasterly". But since you then decided to teach me I'll let you have that fun. But don't embarrass yourself. Homophones are words that are pronounced the same (as the Greek meaning clearly implies). Some people might pronounce "fred" the same as "thread" but that is as far from being correct as you are from being a humble person. You can have fun playing with your language as much as you like but don't spread incorrect stuff here pretending to be something better.

 

Now let's get back to the topic.

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If you underexpose you loose one of the big advantages of mirrorless cameras that the view finder shows the exposure bevor you pull the trigger.

 

I agree, that using RAW is the best to do when you want to drive the sensor to its limit. So I never understood why Fuji decided to make the highest ISOs JPEG only on the older cameras and why it needed so many years and a new camera to change it. The only thing I can think of is that they were afraid of too much noise in the view finder.

 

Edit: unwanted characters removed.

 

That's an evf option you can change in the settings. Dark/ bad lighting really doesnt benefit from using your EVF to figure exposure. If anything its better to not judge exposure using the evf in these conditions as then it becomes much more difficult to focus and view the scene in the first place. 

 

If you are shooting in tough lighting conditions, I'd be locking in ISO (on my XE-2 I stick to 800 or less) and shutter anyway, those will not change in the same scene shot to shot much. After shooting, either post process or if you prefer the OOC jpegs, use the in camera RAW developer and push the exposure up as needed. The images are much cleaner this way, I never enjoyed high ISO shot noise and color rendition, it's pretty ugly for the most part. 

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