Jump to content

16mm 2.8 vs 23mm 2.0


tiggyboo

Recommended Posts

I was recently shipped a 16mm 2.8 lens mistakenly - I'd actually ordered the 23mm 2.0.   I'm the proud owner of a new XT-30.  For the moment, I have both lenses in hand.  I have 30 days to send one of the lenses back.  I confirmed what I saw in many reviews that the 23mm is soft when wide open at 2.0.  That does not seem to be the case with the 16mm  at it's maximum aperature (then again, it can't get that wide.)  I also noticed that the f-stop clicks were much more distinct on the 16mm than they were on the 23mm, although I doubt I would have noticed it had I not compared them side by side.  I will say the 23mm feels a little better balanced in my hands with the XT-30 than does the 16mm.

Now I'm struggling over which to return.  I think the 23mm is a better fit as a 'standard lens' - at least the way I shoot.  On the other hand, the other stuff I mentioned above sort of sticks in my craw.

Any opinions along these lines are appreciated.   Thanks in advance!

Al

Link to post
Share on other sites

confirmed what I saw in many reviews that the 23mm is soft when wide open at 2.0. 

 

Nonsense. Mine is tack sharp. You must be using it wrong.

 

There s a big difference between 16 and 23. Sharpness is not the proper reason to choose between one or the other.

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, tiggyboo said:

And all the other reviewers must be using it wrong as well.  But you make a good point about sharpness - I agree that's just one of many criteria.  I'm thinking I'll keep the 23mm.

Of course they use it wrong. They zoom in to 400%, post crappy images and call themselves 'experts'. Most have no credibility and are just repeating what every other noob is preaching.

 

You trust amateurs with less skill than yourself? I don't trust reviewers with crappy portfolios. I trust my own eyes and I'm telling you my lens is sharp.

 

If it's not sharp, you're either using it wide open at close range or are focusing on a tiny detail, which is wrong because it's not a macro lens, or are shooting landscaps at f2 and complaning not everything is sharp (it shoudln't be at f2!), or are pixel peeping which is also nonsensical, or have extreme expectations...


It's right in line with the other f2 lenses (35 and 50) :

mtf.png

mtf.png

mtf.png

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by MonGoose
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll grant you my own 'testing' was anything but scientific.  It basically consisted of taking a picture of a textured brick wall about 3-4 feet away, outdoors in the sun.  I took several shots at 2.0 and several more at 4.0.  Shutter speed was obviously not a factor.  The 2.0 shots were consistently softer than 4.0 (which were very sharp.)  The dropoff is more than I would have anticipated (enlarging the image was not required to see the difference,) but then again, I've never conducted a test like this.  I was only motivated to try it given all the stuff I've read online.  Maybe I should try it again with another lens and see if the same thing happens.  At any rate, I'm satisfied it's not really going to amount to much if any of an issue with the type of shooting I do - and for what it's worth, that seems to be the prevailing attitude even among those that felt the lens was soft wide open.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Every lens will be sharper stopped down but saying it's not sharp at f2, is doing the lens injustice.

I cannot say my 23 is visibly softer than the 35 f2 and 50 f2. It's sharp enough. If you want even sharper, set it to f4-5.6.

Edited by MonGoose
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey I didn't even notice those cool graphics you included in a previous message since I was reading on my phone for that.  Thanks for going to all that trouble - it makes me feel even better about holding on to the 23mm!

Thanks again,

Al

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Has anyone successfully used pocket wizards with an XT5? I cannot get it to fire.  Do Fujis and pocket wizards get along? Thanks in advance for your wisdom on this, kind readers!
    • Grzegorz, Go to the Networking Setting in your camera menu (the last one at the bottom - unless you have a My Menu then that is the last one). There, go to Network Setting and choose the SSID (name) of your WiFi network, type in the password, choose "SET". If you have a functioning DHCP server on your network, the camera should get its IP address (and Subnet_Mask and Gateway). If not, you can enter these manually. It is a little tricky, there will be some zeros already here, move the cursor after the zero and use DEL to delete it and make space in the input fields for your own correct values. If you do not know what to enter, have a look at values in the network settings of your computer and use the same except for the IP address, try some fairly higher number, hopefully you hit an unused one. Usually the values would be something like IP: 192.168.1.188, Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0, Gateway IP: 192.168.1.1  or something like that, take clues from your computer. The camera and computer must be on the same network. Then in Connection Mode on the camera, choose Wireless Tethering Fixed. And half-press the shutter to exit the menu and get in shooting mode. The red LED should be blinking. If you can look at your network devices, e.g. on your router, you should see the camera there. You can see check the camera settings in the camera menu in the INFORMATION item of the Network Setting menu to see the MAC address of your camera and look for it in the list of devices on your network.  Then use the tethering in your software, e.g. in Capture One. The camera may not show immediately, take a shot and then it should show in the list of available cameras. Good luck. Report back how did you fare.  PS If you have a Windows machine, you need to have Bonjour installed and running. Macs have it.
    • Hey all, I just got my first camera. The X-T30 II. It seems the Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display view-mode is doing the exact same thing as just the Eye Sensor view-mode setting. Any ideas why this is or what's supposed to be happening? Firmware Version: 2.04
    • What GordW said. You have to put the drive mode dial to "S" - Single Frame. If you have it on CL, CH, BKT or Panorama (or HDR), the Multiple Exposure option will be greyed out in the shootng menu. On my X-T5 it works in RAW + JPG and also in JPG only. When Multiple Exposure is switched on, the image quality cannot be set to RAW only. If it was set to RAW only before switching Multiple Exposure On, image quality defaults to RAW+Fine. The result is JPG. After each shot press MENU/OK and after the last one press DISP/BACK.  
    • Springtime is coming to the Norwegian fjords.  X-E4 with XC 15-45

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...