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XT1 and XT10 difference


mrz1342

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The X-T10 is smaller and lighter and has a pop-up flash, but the X-T1's bigger shell fits in moderate weather sealing, two more physical dials, a larger EVF and a very, very slightly higher-resolution screen. The X-T10's buffer is a lot, lot smaller and it doesn't support the faster memory cards that the X-T1 does, but the X-T1 eats through battery very, very slightly faster.

Unless you're crazy and trying to use a mirrorless camera to shoot wildlife in a rainforest, there's no practical difference. In regular day conditions shooting at a normal speed, they will do the exact same things. I'm actually considering selling my X-T1 and replacing it with a second X-T10, because for my purposes they are identical but I can sell the T1 for more than a new T10 costs.

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The X-T10 is smaller and lighter and has a pop-up flash, but the X-T1's bigger shell fits in moderate weather sealing, two more physical dials, a larger EVF and a very, very slightly higher-resolution screen. The X-T10's buffer is a lot, lot smaller and it doesn't support the faster memory cards that the X-T1 does, but the X-T1 eats through battery very, very slightly faster.

 

Unless you're crazy and trying to use a mirrorless camera to shoot wildlife in a rainforest, there's no practical difference. In regular day conditions shooting at a normal speed, they will do the exact same things. I'm actually considering selling my X-T1 and replacing it with a second X-T10, because for my purposes they are identical but I can sell the T1 for more than a new T10 costs.

To me it would be the buffer or the larger EVF that could make the difference for the average user that isn't trekking through rainforests.    And the X-T10 EVF is still very good so it might be that the buffer is the deciding factor or a lot of buyers.

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You people forget the controls. X-T1 has an ISO direct dial which is essential for me and some others.

X-T10 seems to be cheaper made. In fact i don't like the quality after X-T1. Having larger EVF is a serious advantage too.

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You people forget the controls. X-T1 has an ISO direct dial which is essential for me and some others.

X-T10 seems to be cheaper made. In fact i don't like the quality after X-T1. Having larger EVF is a serious advantage too.

That is something to consider but the XT10 has as many controls and the locking ISO dial on the XT1 is as much a disadvantage as it is an advantage depending on your preference.   Changing ISO using the dedicated button and dial on the XT10 is easier for some people.   The build quality of the XT1 is better but there are aspects of the XT10 that are better like the control pad that was a big negative with the XT1 and I'd guess that the XT10 won't have any of the issues that have plagued the XT1 like the light leak, peeling rubber and the bowed door.   The light leak shouldn't be a concern for those buying from a new batch of XT1s but the other issues could be.

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That is something to consider but the XT10 has as many controls and the locking ISO dial on the XT1 is as much a disadvantage as it is an advantage depending on your preference.   Changing ISO using the dedicated button and dial on the XT10 is easier for some people.   The build quality of the XT1 is better but there are aspects of the XT10 that are better like the control pad that was a big negative with the XT1 and I'd guess that the XT10 won't have any of the issues that have plagued the XT1 like the light leak, peeling rubber and the bowed door.   The light leak shouldn't be a concern for those buying from a new batch of XT1s but the other issues could be.

Overall I agree. Personally I switch ISO quite rarely but sometimes I need to do this fast. Thus current ISO a dial design is perfect for me. But that's just me. I even consider weather I would or would not like the shutter dial lock in every position as opposed to A-lock only. Unfortunately I find X-Pro1's lock quite hard to be used and I don't like it.

Talking about issues we can't be sure there are no problems unique for X-T10. They could be hidden or long lasting ones.

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You people forget the controls. X-T1 has an ISO direct dial which is essential for me and some others.

 

I did mention the additional dials. I also thought this would be a problem, before I used a pre-production X-T10, but when I did with the ISO mapped to one of the command dials, I didn't find myself missing the ISO top dial. In fact because it's not stacked up, I find myself not changing shooting modes accidentally like I do with the X-T1.

 

I'd agree that the T10 feels cheaper, but that's to be expected with a camera that is half the price and not weather sealed. Again, as I I don't see much use for mirrorless cameras in conditions where toughness is an issue, I personally do not consider this to be a problem.

 

 

To me it would be the buffer or the larger EVF that could make the difference for the average user that isn't trekking through rainforests.    And the X-T10 EVF is still very good so it might be that the buffer is the deciding factor or a lot of buyers.

I've not met many casual shooters who keep their camera in high speed continuous burst, and few who even use viewfinders when there's a decent rear screen to use instead.

 

The buffer can be a problem, hence why I highlighted it. I have run it out twice on jobs, where the T1 wouldn't have run out. Still, two short instances on two minor jobs out of a couple of months is not bad going, and the buffer of the T10 actually isn't any smaller than the buffer I used to live with all the time on my (then)£4,000 1DsmkII. The T10's buffer is small compared to the T1, sure, but in the grand scheme of things it is good enough.

 

Again, I wouldn't say the T10 is the better choice for everybody, just that in my—entirely subjective—experience as a working professional, the T10 has, so far, done a fine job of replacing the T1 and my T1 now is just gathering dust until I write that eBay listing and buy a second T10.

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I did mention the additional dials. I also thought this would be a problem, before I used a pre-production X-T10, but when I did with the ISO mapped to one of the command dials, I didn't find myself missing the ISO top dial. In fact because it's not stacked up, I find myself not changing shooting modes accidentally like I do with the X-T1.

One can assign ISO to a command dial. That's great! I didn't know that. But don't you find yourself changing ISO accidentally? I felt X-T10 dials to be quite easy to knock off.

In fact I've never changed the drive mode accidentally even while wearing winter gloves.

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Yeah, the dials on the T10 are a bit loose and easy to knock accidentally, but I simply adjusted my grip—kind of necessary since the smaller body is a little awkward for my large hands anyway—and now it's not a problem.
I do end up changing the drive a lot by accident with the T1, but like I said, large hands. Those stacked dials are a nightmare for me. I actually would rather have a proper ISO dial on top and I wish they had gotten rid of the drive dial, instead, but alas~

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I've not met many casual shooters who keep their camera in high speed continuous burst, and few who even use viewfinders when there's a decent rear screen to use instead.

 

The buffer can be a problem, hence why I highlighted it. I have run it out twice on jobs, where the T1 wouldn't have run out. Still, two short instances on two minor jobs out of a couple of months is not bad going, and the buffer of the T10 actually isn't any smaller than the buffer I used to live with all the time on my (then)£4,000 1DsmkII. The T10's buffer is small compared to the T1, sure, but in the grand scheme of things it is good enough.

 

Again, I wouldn't say the T10 is the better choice for everybody, just that in my—entirely subjective—experience as a working professional, the T10 has, so far, done a fine job of replacing the T1 and my T1 now is just gathering dust until I write that eBay listing and buy a second T10.

It may be that you're interpreting my comments differently than they were meant.   I wasn't talking about casual shooters that don't use EVFs - I was talking about the average XT10 shooter that would typically use the EVF and would sometimes shoot in CH.    And I wasn't suggesting that most average XT10 users would need the larger EVF or the bigger buffer but that some will consider these key differences based on their needs.   In other words, I agree that the XT10 is going to be a better fit for a high percentage of people but if someone does decide to go with the XT1 it will likely be the buffer and EVF more than the other differences.

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people like me just want to have fun with photography, a nice camera to handle a bit with exposure, a bit with aperture, and get a nice shot of memorable events. So, for a lot of people xt10 could be better than xt1, some way they get out of their (bulky) dslr

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Agree with most of what's been said.

 

PRO X-T10:

 

I found the extra drive/AE mode dials on the X-T1 got changed by accident a lot and it was annoying. I also find the drive dial on the X-T10 much more useful because there are more icons and it still works because there's more space for labels. That said I struggle to keep a function button open for ISO to replace the X-T1's dial. 

 

About ISO on command dial: It doesn't get changed all the time because you need to first push in the dial (not available on the X-T1) then choose an ISO. It's equivalent to mapping ISO to the front function button on the X-T1 then using the dial to pick a sensitivity, but having the front dial act as a function button AND chooser is really efficient.

 

Mushy buttons on the X-T1 are really bad and are the worst on any of the Fuji cameras because of the first-gen weather sealing. Seems trivial but IMHO it's not, I use those buttons while looking through the EVF and being able to feel them clicking is important. 

 

PRO X-T1

 

The higher-magnification (bigger) EVF is mostly a perk and I wouldn't consider it a vital feature on it's own, but because of the magnification loss you also miss out on the picture-in-picture manual focus aid, which is really cool and more precise than focus peaking in many situations. 

 

The X-T10 is slower all around. When turning it on and off there's often a long loading period where many buttons (playback, menu, Q) are unresponsive until loading completes. I've noticed that the date shows during the loading period, and while it's loading the screen doesn't switch to EVF based on the eye sensor. To me this loading wait is symbolic of the overall lack of computing power in the X-T10 compared to the X-T1, with the much smaller buffer being the more easily noticed symptom. 

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The X-T10 is slower all around. When turning it on and off there's often a long loading period where many buttons (playback, menu, Q) are unresponsive until loading completes. I've noticed that the date shows during the loading period, and while it's loading the screen doesn't switch to EVF based on the eye sensor. To me this loading wait is symbolic of the overall lack of computing power in the X-T10 compared to the X-T1, with the much smaller buffer being the more easily noticed symptom. 

I'm not sure what you're seeing here, this hasn't been my experience at all.   When turning the XT10 on you can take a picture almost immediately and the eye sensor will switch to evf just about as fast as you can turn it on and put your eye to the viewfinder.    If I'm not mistaken the XT1 and XT10 have the same processor.   

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I'm not sure what you're seeing here, this hasn't been my experience at all.   When turning the XT10 on you can take a picture almost immediately and the eye sensor will switch to evf just about as fast as you can turn it on and put your eye to the viewfinder.    If I'm not mistaken the XT1 and XT10 have the same processor.   

 

There is definitely some better equipment in the X-T1 that affects the buffer size, so if it's not the "processor" then whatever it is IMHO it affects the whole camera at startup. 

 

FWIW the behavior is really inconsistent for me, and usually only affects a cold boot up. If I turn the camera off, then on again right away there's no "lag" period.

 

But when I pick it up for the first time that day, turn it on, then hold it to my eye I am greeted with shocking darkness, look back down at the LCD, see the date, then the date dissappears and holding it up to my eye does what I expect. It seems that taking a shot during this period DOES work, but not the playback button or eye sensor. 

 

Of course this could be a software bug rather than hardware limitation. My X-E1 doesn't have anything like this problem which is interesting, though not conclusive since it also has a lot less OS to load up than the X-T10.

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The great majority of “ professional” cameras that I’ve used in my rather long professional career were not weather proof.

 

The first ever whether proof camera that I ever had in my hands was the Pentax LX. I don’t think any lens, back then, was weather proof though ( or if there were I was never aware of that detail)

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There is definitely some better equipment in the X-T1 that affects the buffer size, so if it's not the "processor" then whatever it is IMHO it affects the whole camera at startup. 

 

FWIW the behavior is really inconsistent for me, and usually only affects a cold boot up. If I turn the camera off, then on again right away there's no "lag" period.

 

[...]

 

Quick question, since I do not have the X-T10, I am very newbie regarding it, but doesn't it have also the enhancement mode ? If so, I assume you have it enabled during your tests, right ?

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The great majority of “ professional” cameras that I’ve used in my rather long professional career were not weather proof.

 

The first ever whether proof camera that I ever had in my hands was the Pentax LX. I don’t think any lens, back then, was weather proof though ( or if there were I was never aware of that detail)

maybe because it was a technology/feature that was still new and not widely available? idk.. but if the Nikon F3 and Canon F1n were were part of the great majority of professional cameras you've used, well, they were pro level cameras that also introduced weathersealing.

 

going back to film days, the meaning of 'professional' might not be the same for digital cameras of today or even between camera makers. we don't change heads like you can with a Nikon F2. and an all-black body was sometimes considered or many times was the only option for a professional/press model from some makers. yet, later when plastic bodies were being made, they were mostly all black anyway.

 

these days (or even then with titanium versions and such), the option for black (or graphite silver) is merely a bling factor especially as far as what I've seen from Fuji. the black x100 was more than the silver (goodies or not), and the graphite silver X-T1 costs more than the black. yet, the X-T10 is the same price for either colour. things change.

 

if you look at DSLRs from CaNikon, there was a time when only the higher-end pro models had full weathersealing. then mid-range models slowly started adding pro-features including partial weathersealing. things change.

 

as far as Fuji and the X lineup goes, so far I think it's more like.. they have higher-end models and lower-end models, and the higher-end models just offer more professional-like features that's currently trending - if one camera maker offers it as a professional feature, they may add is as a professional feature as well especially if enough users are requesting it. that's my opinion, of course.

 

(Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

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Quick question, since I do not have the X-T10, I am very newbie regarding it, but doesn't it have also the enhancement mode ? If so, I assume you have it enabled during your tests, right ?

 

I imagine you're referring to the "high performance mode" which I do have enabled. 

 

For anyone curious to test my experience that the X-T10 can have an annoying long lag when first turned on I've figured out steps to reproduce it consistently:

 

* Turn off the camera

* Take out the battery

* Put battery back in

* Turn on camera

 

For me this consistently results in a period of 4-6 seconds (did some quick, unscientific timing with a stopwatch) where the eye sensor and playback button are unresponsive while the date shows on the screen, then the date dissappears and everything works. 

 

If you then turn the camera off an on again, even if you leave it off for a few minutes, it doesn't happen: the camera boots immediately and all buttons work properly. It's only after the battery is removed or some unclear amount of time passes and it "forgets" its state or something. 

 

Not a huge deal since it just means you need to power cycle the camera before your shoot starts, but it does affect me a lot. I often turn the camera on to look at pictures and want to immediately push the playback button, but have to wait which is annoying. If I take out my camera for a quick picture of something waiting an extra 5s can be really distracting for me and my subject. 

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That's how it's meant and advertised to work. Part of the high performance mode function is it puts the camera to sleep, for about five minutes, when you turn the camera off. This enables it to start back up again quicker. After that time the camera does turn off fully and turning it on will require a full system start, which, as you have noted, takes a few seconds to fully initialise. Older cameras simply gave you nothing for a few seconds after turning them on, while Fuji have now opted to exchange more immediate shooting for a few additional seconds required for all buttons to respond. You can take a picture sooner after turning the camera on than you otherwise would, but yes, certain buttons won't do anything for the first four to five seconds.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I find that with the X-T1, I can change the battery while leaving my Black Rapid strap attached in the tripod socket. I wasn't able to do this with my X-E1. I don't know if it is possible with the X-T10, but looking at some of the few photos of the bottom plate, the battery chamber appears to be closer than on the X-T1. Of course the SD socket is on the side with the X-T1 so is accessible when the tripod socket is being used, whereas the X-T10 has the memory card in the battery chamber.

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I find that with the X-T1, I can change the battery while leaving my Black Rapid strap attached in the tripod socket. I wasn't able to do this with my X-E1. I don't know if it is possible with the X-T10, but looking at some of the few photos of the bottom plate, the battery chamber appears to be closer than on the X-T1. Of course the SD socket is on the side with the X-T1 so is accessible when the tripod socket is being used, whereas the X-T10 has the memory card in the battery chamber.

 

I think you'll fin the X-T10 has the same battery-door-too-close-to-tripod-socket issue as the X-E1. I held mine up to each other and they were basically the same layout. 

 

On the bright side the tripod socket in the add-on grip for X-T10 (MHG-XT10) is in a much more central location, so the battery door should work with a blackrapid/tripod plate. I had the same experience with my X-E1 and iShoot grip, much better overall positioning for the tripod thread. 

 

One of the weirdest things about the X-T10 is the SD card slot, which is shockingly hard to access. I find I need a fingernail to get it to pop out, then I need to use my finger in a weird way to slide it out. Much easier on the X-E1 to pop it up and grip the card with two fingers. 

 

FWIW I found the SD card door on the X-T1 too loose and it kept popping open when I didn't want it to, so I don't consider either camera as being significantly better/worse in that regard.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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