Matching X-H1 video with XT-3 footage?

[kalmargyula]

Hello,

how easy or efficient it is to match video created by the XH1 with the XT3 considering that these are similar cameras, lot's of video settings, same company yet the sensor is off different generation?

Is there a significant difference in colours, texture and overall image look ?

Thank you 

[carylee2002]

I shot with my XT2 and XH1 using identical kit lenses on a 2-camera interview and found no problems when editing with Premiere....You do need to have a common film style and shooting for consistency. I used a video version of the Color Checker Passport on both cameras and also had mikes on both cameras. I also shot in F-log raw format but you can use Eterna if that is easier..I prefer to color correct in post. I also made sure both cameras were manually white balanced using a 18-grey card and not relying on auto because of the different lights hitting the sensors would produce inconsistent results. My results ended up almost identical when doing this method of shooting. Now with the XT3 with a new sensor your image might be different out of camera if you just shot at stock. 

Edited April 10, 2019 by carylee2002

[eurotrash]

Yep, this is pretty well known throughout the years with Fuji's cameras and well discussed on other forums. I have an old XT-1, XE-2 and XH-1 and use them for youtube videos all the time. They're ALL different looking, even when using the same film profiles, lol. The XH is very subdued in its color profiles, less punchy contrast and lifted blacks but with a much more resolving sensor. 1080p looks incredibly crisp. The XT and XE have a very saturated look with pretty extreme contrast values and a much more yellow tint to their color profiles across the board. Crap for video though, they both look like they're coming out of a Razr phone from 2002, even at their highest possible output settings. I've thought about grabbing a second XH but eh...

I've found that using custom white balance and trying to match the contrast and black levels, color and such on both cameras before shooting is the best thing you can do. Likely using a color checker as carylee suggested would be a better option. Just get them as close as possible before hitting that record button, really.

Do remember that the physics of light can cause a scene to look  different than say, your main cam, even whilst shooting the same subject if they're on different focal planes and distances/angles. The camera could be taking in more 3500k than 5500k or some such just due to it's relative position versus the other camera. This is compounded of course, by the aforementioned lack of consistent color grading so getting it mostly right in camera is important, regardless of what system you're using to shoot.

Edited May 13, 2019 by eurotrash