Jump to content

white dots appearing on dark area?


Dry Etch

Recommended Posts

Hi All.

Take a look at the photo below.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!


do you see distinctive white dots on dark area?
(magnified area is 40% brightened for more visibility.)
it was taken in 1/125s , F2 , ISO1600 , DR200% , PROVIA , WB Auto , and other settings at 0.


They really seem like dusts on sensor or lens... but they're not.
Everytime I take pictures, the white dots appear on different locations.


to make it sure, with lens cap closed, they still appear in random locations. And they get more as the ISO goes higher.


Of course I tried in-body pixel mapping. it didn't help at all.


And I also tested noise Reduction setting from -4 to +4. they always appear.
What was worse is that with NR +4, normal noise gets blury but the dots stay still. It's much visible.

 

At first, I thought my camera is defective.  (bought a brand new one and it's been only a month.)
But when I asked people who's using X-T3, some of them were aware of this.


I think this problem is maybe happening on All X-T3s.  (noise reduction algorithm fault?)
But just not widely known because it's not very easy to notice.


if you have X-T3, Please check this out.

Magnify your pictures and tell me if you have same problem.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

yes! it does theyre plenty when you bump up the iso 400-1200 or the sharpness -1 to +4. but not noticeable at iso 2000/3200/6400 or in other color profile beside standard. FUJI what is this? please make this right with your next f irmware. I hope you are concern of your flagship consumer camera?    sample below

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      

Link to post
Share on other sites

What program are you using for the photos displayed?

I can look back in my you tube history, I remember something that a you tuber identifyied that the logarithms in programs are not completely accurate for Fuji sensors and it is not the camera that is at fault, but is the program you are using for you Fuji files.

I am being vague about the terminology as I do not have the facts at this time, but just wanted to make you aware.

What do you think?

Jimmy

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Hello all

I am having the same issue. I have noticed that only appears more frequently at 18mm. 
I have some dots that are persistent in many photos but weirdly not in every single one of them (8 of 10 I should say). 

If I move the zoom lens to a closer focal length (23-35mm) sometimes the white pixels moves a couples of pixels offset from the previous one at 18mm.

I did the test with the cap on and it seems that they are always present if you increase the exposure in post.

I also have some white pixel even a normal speed and ISO 160 when is poor lit scene.

Best 

Luis

 

Edited by Liturram
I added information
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

I have never noticed this effect on my x-t3, which I have owned for several years. I use Lightroom and recently X Transformer. I just thought to mention it as obviously it is not present in all x-t3s..

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • HI Rufo, I have changed procedures.  I now use the colors space transform (CST) as my first node.  The CST is set up as follows: - Apply the CST effect to the first node. - Color Space is Rec 2020 - Input gamma is FLog - Output color space is Rec 709 - Output gamma is Gamma 2.4 All other nodes to grade the clip proceed the node that contains the color space transform. Hope this helps. Don
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      Ohio River, Kentucky - Indiana, USA Ohio River, indiana - Kentucky, USA
    • Interesting, and a bit subtle. I also think it'd be better to activate on a half press. But there seems to be good reasoning behind a number of other choices, so I wonder if there's a good reason behind this one and we're just not seeing it. To some degree IS goes on and off like AF does, but this is an exception, isn't it?
    • I couldn't find my manual so downloaded a PDF copy and did some searching.  From p146 of the manual, regarding Shooting Only stabilisation: "Image stabilization enabled only when the shutter button is pressed halfway (focus mode C) or the shutter is released." So it appears that the camera is 'working as intended' and that in AF-S the stabilisation mechanism kicks in only as you release the shutter. I think I would prefer it to activate on a half press, like it does in AF-C.
    • Sometime a short break can help to phrase things so that they do not sound annoying, Well that is the hope anyway, so here goes. Having that meter would be nice as well as having the histogram. But having them or not is a minor consideration in terms of what you are wanting to do because the app does not work with intervalometers. The only way you can get a time lapse sequence using the app is to manually click the shutter button, wait then click it again and so on. Even if the meter were there, you would need extremely fast reflexes to see and react to a lighting change by changing the settings and then going back to clicking the shutter button. Doing that for hours would be a feat indeed. The equipment you mention does this by analyzing several past images and predicting what settings to apply to the next incoming image. Right now the app has the live view which will tell you if an area is over or under exposed, but as far as what you are wanting to do without being able to connect the app to an intervalometer, well …
×
×
  • Create New...