Jump to content

56mm f/1.2 - Aperture stopped clicking


T-Man

Recommended Posts

Something bizarre happened today. I was taking pictures with my XF 56mm f/1.2 (non-APD) coupled to an 11mm Fujifilm Macro Extension Adapter on X-Pro1. Camera locked up during focussing and the aperture ring felt sticky. Upon restart the aperture ring stopped clicking. Tried on three other bodies (X-E2, X-T1, and X-T10) same issue, and more than often the camera OS freezes requiring reboot.

 

It happened to my Xf 18mm f/2 once while using it on an X-E2 body. I had the same 11mm Macro Extension Adapter coupled. At the time the lens was still within dealer's return period and was exchanged by the store. BTW, I do use both (11mm and 16mm) Macro Extension Adapters quite frequently.

 

Any of you guys ever had this happen? Is there anything I can do to fix my lens or do should I send it in for warranty repair?

 

 

Cheers!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I suspect that the clicking is mechanical and nothing to do with the electrical connectivity between the lens and body.

 

I don't use the macro extension tube and have never had aperture clicks jamming on mine.

 

It is very odd that it happened to you twice and on different lenses.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for your response. You are correct about the aperture ring. Through external manipulation a tiny metal strip and a ball bearing came out. The ring is not sticky any more; it is moving freely, without any clicks. I am shipping it in the morning to Fuji for repair.

 

A clarification is in order regarding my original post. The XF 18mm f/2 did not have any aperture ring problem; it was only causing my camera to freeze.

 

Cheers. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

As I mentioned in the original post, "I was taking pictures with my XF 56mm f/1.2 (non-APD) coupled to an 11mm Fujifilm Macro Extension Adapter on X-Pro1. Camera locked up during focussing and the aperture ring felt sticky. Upon restart the aperture ring stopped clicking. Tried on three other bodies (X-E2, X-T1, and X-T10) same issue, and more than often the camera OS freezes requiring reboot."

 

Spoke to Fujifilm support/repair in New Jersey today. Shipping the lens out today for repair with the 11mm Macro Extension Adapter. They offered to replace both with reconditioned items, but I have opted for repair. Assuming warranty repair. Don't know how long the whole thing will take. Will update.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

have either of those lenses been used heavily?

 

(Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

 

No. In fact, very sparingly. The f2/18mm lens started giving me errors within two weeks of purchase; it was replaced. The f1.2/56mm was purchased in February this year.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gotta love forums.

 

– After a short run on highway 85, my car stopped and won't turn back on. There's a clicking noise coming from under the hood, black smoke and some flames. Just a little, I haven't tried to put them off yet. Oh, and it also leaks gasoline.

– Oh dear, oh dear, I've been driving on highway 85 too! I hope it won't happen to me!…

Link to post
Share on other sites

or...

 

Person C: i had to take a short run on Hwy 85 but ended up getting stuck in heavy traffic.

Person D: gosh! i have to take Hwy 85 later. i hope i don't get stuck in traffic, too.

 

also...

 

Person A: my X-T1 has horrible nav buttons.

Person B: i hope my pre-ordered X-T1 doesn't have horrible nav buttons, too.

 

yes, you've got to love forums.

 

(Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Romi- I highly doubt it that you'll run into the same problem. I experienced the problems with the f2/18mm immediately. It was one of the first few Fuji lenses I had purchased and I ignored the "freezes" first few times as user caused error. In fairness, Fuji has been really good to us; both my daughter and I, shoot with X cameras (not exclusively though) and we have every single XF lens there is. The above are the only two problems I have faced. BTW, every once in a while the EVF on my black X-E2 fails to 'kick-in' when the sun is behind me and is directly shining on the EVF sensor. I don't make a big deal out of it but my daughter's silver X-E2 does not act this way; neither does either of the X-T1 cameras nor the X-Pro1. Given that XT-1 and X-Pro1 are different beasts, the only explanation I have come to is the latitude (tolerance) in manufacturing QC; the black X-E2 was purchased in November '14 and the silver in March '15. To reiterate, I am very happy with Fuji's service.

 

Spoke to a Fuji Medical Imaging sales representative at my wife's hospital, he gave me a plausible reasoning for camera errors and freezes as experienced by me: electrical contact short. Since XF lenses are designed to signal aperture setting to the camera, a loose connection (when not clicking and thus, not locking) can cause a short and loss/corruption of data. I find it logical and it does satisfy my inquisitiveness about the experience.

 

Cheers!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i get the EVF switch lag on my GX7 as well, but no issues on my black X-E2. very annoying when i'm trying to quickly capture a shot but end up missing it especially when i'n not using a lens with the DOF scale.

 

i get the issue where when using AF with my damaged 27mm, the lens locks up when the forward element is fully racked out and brings up the screen to shut the body off. (i did open it and repair what i could so the forward element no longer full pops out. but i can only use it in MF, now.) anyway, i can get out of that error screen by clicking on image preview then clicking out of it and it just goes back to capture mode.

 

so, the used 18mm i bought had delivered last week and what a terrible feeling everything. the aperture ring had such a high torque to turn. i thought it was seized at first. while it was very tight at full stops, i almost thought there were no third stops in between - no notch feeling there. i usually fine focus manually with a single finger under the lens, but with this, i couldn't even do that. three-fourths of the focus rotation was so stiff in a grindy way - a metal-to-metal feel like when your brake pads run thin and the warning tabs grind on the rotor. and the rest of the rotation was somewhat smoother, so i knew the lens was obviously a lemon. on top of that, in certain angles under fluorescent light, i would get a very dark bronzish bar that ran across two-thirds or one-third of the image which was so weird. i couldn't replicate that with any of my other lenses or even with the new 18mm i just got today. luckily, i was able to return it to the seller to get my money back. i found another 18mm that was brand-new in the original packaging which includes Fuji's warranty (for better piece of mind) which was hardly a few dollars more than the lemon i got that was so bad i couldn't even make lemonade with.

 

(Sent from another Galaxy via Tapatalk)

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

This was a very pleasant experience in dealing with Fuji repair. Total turnaround time (including shipping) was ten days. Fuji replaced the aperture assembly and the mount. In my opinion the aperture is no longer as loose as it was.

 

Omer...

How much did it cost to repair?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Instead of on the 56 I had this with my 23f1.4 after using it on a sandy beach. Not with ball bearings coming out, but it did stop clicking for a while. A couple of days later the problem kind of fixed itself and from then on the aperture ring clicked perfectly again. I do find the aperture ring a bit loose; I prefer the more stiff rings of the newer WR lenses.

Edited by Mervyn
Link to post
Share on other sites

@Melv - No, I didn't do anything special. I used a little blower to remove the small grains of sand, and I turned and moved both the focus and aperture rings. After doing that the aperture ring clicked again. My guess is that it was a grain of sand that was stuck underneath the aperture ring that was causing the problem, most likely it had nothing to do with the ball bearing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Has anyone successfully used pocket wizards with an XT5? I cannot get it to fire.  Do Fujis and pocket wizards get along? Thanks in advance for your wisdom on this, kind readers!
    • Grzegorz, Go to the Networking Setting in your camera menu (the last one at the bottom - unless you have a My Menu then that is the last one). There, go to Network Setting and choose the SSID (name) of your WiFi network, type in the password, choose "SET". If you have a functioning DHCP server on your network, the camera should get its IP address (and Subnet_Mask and Gateway). If not, you can enter these manually. It is a little tricky, there will be some zeros already here, move the cursor after the zero and use DEL to delete it and make space in the input fields for your own correct values. If you do not know what to enter, have a look at values in the network settings of your computer and use the same except for the IP address, try some fairly higher number, hopefully you hit an unused one. Usually the values would be something like IP: 192.168.1.188, Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0, Gateway IP: 192.168.1.1  or something like that, take clues from your computer. The camera and computer must be on the same network. Then in Connection Mode on the camera, choose Wireless Tethering Fixed. And half-press the shutter to exit the menu and get in shooting mode. The red LED should be blinking. If you can look at your network devices, e.g. on your router, you should see the camera there. You can see check the camera settings in the camera menu in the INFORMATION item of the Network Setting menu to see the MAC address of your camera and look for it in the list of devices on your network.  Then use the tethering in your software, e.g. in Capture One. The camera may not show immediately, take a shot and then it should show in the list of available cameras. Good luck. Report back how did you fare.  PS If you have a Windows machine, you need to have Bonjour installed and running. Macs have it.
    • Hey all, I just got my first camera. The X-T30 II. It seems the Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display view-mode is doing the exact same thing as just the Eye Sensor view-mode setting. Any ideas why this is or what's supposed to be happening? Firmware Version: 2.04
    • What GordW said. You have to put the drive mode dial to "S" - Single Frame. If you have it on CL, CH, BKT or Panorama (or HDR), the Multiple Exposure option will be greyed out in the shootng menu. On my X-T5 it works in RAW + JPG and also in JPG only. When Multiple Exposure is switched on, the image quality cannot be set to RAW only. If it was set to RAW only before switching Multiple Exposure On, image quality defaults to RAW+Fine. The result is JPG. After each shot press MENU/OK and after the last one press DISP/BACK.  
    • Springtime is coming to the Norwegian fjords.  X-E4 with XC 15-45

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...