Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello all, new member here :) . Last Saturday i went to do some astrophotos with my xt20 and my new 56 1.2. I would like to know if someone else have try to do some AP with this lens becouse i run in some issues with the focus. 

My idea was to use the intervalometer to take multiple shoots to stack the photos in post (typical for AP) so i tried to use manual focus but the focus by wire is not so trustworthy in this situations...it jumped a lot between small stars (close to focus) and big ones (far from it). In the end set to manual, back button focus and that seemed to work for bright stars...the problem was that after the first pic, all the others from the set were out of focus! even if the focus was set to manual it seemed to move it a bit, which for stars and 1.2 is terrible!! does anyone run to the same issue?? or know what would be the best strategy to do AP with this lens?? I have also the roki 85 1.4 and comparing pics (the ones in focus) im really happy with the results of the 56...but focusing the 85 it way easier!! If anyone can help me would be helpful!!! sorry about my english! Cheers from Argentina!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...

I’ve used my 56mm for Astro before, the attached image is a single exposure straight out of camera, taken with my 56mm & XT-2. I tend to shoot at f2.8 as the vignetting at f1.2 makes Astro panos impossible. Also the chromatic abbreviation at f1.2 is less than ideal.  Focus wise I go by the hyperbolics & check with live view (back button to zoom right in on a bright star). Never had any issues with focus drifting but I have had condensation buildup on the from element making it look like the lens is of of focus. 
 

PS, which 56mm are you using as Fujifilm make two, an expensive one and an even more expensive one, mine is the former.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Cedar Waxwing, Oregon. X-H2s, Fuji 150-600+1.4TC.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Have you checked the settings for jpeg? I found the camera was slow between shots. On the advice of others in this forum I turned 'clarity' tp zero and that makes it much faster. Other jpeg settings on that menu might also make it slow. Lens corrections for instance. I have them at zero because I shoot RAW. Paul
    • No, I was not joking. Reread her post, the first sentence is “The focus mode selector button on the front of the camera has  me baffled.” which is what I explained in my answer: the focus mode selector button. My CSM explanation is essentially the standard approach Fujifilm has taken for some time. Explaining the frame rate differences as I did to someone brand new to the camera seems an easier approach to understanding than saying it is 20fps vs 7fps. Not to mention, the following is how Fujifilm describes it: “Continuous AF: Focus is continually adjusted to reflect changes in the distance to the subject while the shutter button is pressed halfway. Use for subjects that are in motion”  https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/  You have to go to page 166 of the manual to get to a very brief explanation of CH vs CL without any context. High speed capture vs slower speed capture seems appropriate to explain so that someone that had been given the impression the top dials are needed for the csm button would realize how they work. I think it is better than saying put the csm button on S the top dial on CH and mash the shutter button — there is no example of when to use that or why. The X-T5 is a wonderful tool, but sometimes examples, humorous or otherwise, help new users understand it better when the manual does not help or when people tell new users to just leave it alone. 
    • The burst speed of the shutter is set by the CL and CH control on top of the camera, it is unrelated to the focus mode setting on the S C M control. The focus speed is not related to the burst speed setting. You might have been joking, but your post adds confusion.
    • This switch is for your lens’ auto-focusing. ”C” tells the body to use continuous focusing, either CL (low speed -  for slow moving puppies, kittens or kids) CH (high speed - for faster moving puppies, kittens or kids or anything that.moves quickly or frenetically). CH or CL is set using the top dial settings. The subject keeps moving and it may be tricky to keep trying to focus to get the photo using the standard compose / focus/ take the photo technique. ”S” is for single shot focusing, point at the subject, half press the shutter button to compose/ focus, then full press to take the photo. Or just push the shutter button to get the image if the situation is suitable. ”M” is for manual focusing, you twist the ring on the lens to set the focus as you want then press the shutter button to get the shot. The focus is entirely up to you, the camera treats the lens as if it does not have a motor in it. Okay, that is mostly true, there are some very old lenses such as the version one 14mm f2.8 lens that can be set to override this setting and autofous anyway, but Fujifilm has not used that design in many years. Note: There are many aids built into the camera to help you manually focus your shots. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/ https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/manual-focus/ As you can guess, this switch setting does not have to completely match the top dial settings, manual exposure settings are different than manual focusing, I am surprised you were told not to mess with it. p.s. You may want to pose your questions in the dedicated X-T5 section to get quicker responses from the X-T5 users.  
×
×
  • Create New...