Jump to content

Fuji XT-2 Raw : worm effect when photographing small leaves and flowers


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Spring came out of nowhere 3 weeks ago, bringing with it small and tender leaves and flowers. I got photography fever… Then I got worms when editing my Fuji X-T2 raw files with Lightroom...

 

Here is my journey.

 

https://blog.laurencebichon.com/en/fuji-xt2-raw-artifacts-and-worms

 

Please let me know your own journey. What do you think ?

 

Enjoy spring shooting !

Laurence

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Spring came out of nowhere 3 weeks ago, bringing with it small and tender leaves and flowers. I got photography fever… Then I got worms when editing my Fuji X-T2 raw files with Lightroom...

 

Here is my journey.

 

https://blog.laurencebichon.com/en/fuji-xt2-raw-artifacts-and-worms

 

Please let me know your own journey. What do you think ?

I settled down with Irident X-transformer with these settings:

RAW process : more detailed

sharpening:none

Luminance noise reduction: Low

Color noise reduction : medium

Dng baseline : adobe default

Apply all corrections to the image. (all checked)

All the turn off lightroom checkboxes checked.

 

as for sharpening and further noise reduction I use NeatImage ( a Photoshop add-on)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Spring came out of nowhere 3 weeks ago, bringing with it small and tender leaves and flowers. I got photography fever… Then I got worms when editing my Fuji X-T2 raw files with Lightroom...

 

Here is my journey.

 

https://blog.laurencebichon.com/en/fuji-xt2-raw-artifacts-and-worms

 

Please let me know your own journey. What do you think ?

 

Enjoy spring shooting !

Laurence

 

Capture One is the best overall solution. Seems you're figuring that out. Dump Adobe.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

your post intrigued me because of the use of the word "worms" in that it described exactly what I saw when I took some images of some archways at a local mosque. The archways are white plaster, nothing more. But when I got the images home, at 100% in LR the images seemed to consist of, well, little worms. I tried to clear it up and submit an image to a stock agency and it was rejected for artifacts. That never happens to me. Ever. So, am I suffering from the Fuji v Adobe issue. 

 

I wish I could upload an image to show you but I'm not at home right now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

here's what I mean. This was shot at ISO 100 and has +38 Clarity applied.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi,

I have used several X-trans cameras. I have at present the XT-2. Regarding the worms effect on foliage etc have you compared the out of camera Jpeg to your raw file?. I have always found some sort of worming effect on small leaves and foliage is present with my out of camera jpegs ( using default settings ). I find that the Acros simulation shows this up really well. I am beginning to think that it is a quirk of the Fujifilm Xtrans sensor perhaps. The "worms" are also present with my little X30 too. 

Cheer ian.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 1/28/2020 at 10:17 AM, dennisfriesen.me said:

I know this is an old topic. But i wanted to tell you guys how to avoid wormy artifacts in Lightroom. 

Under sharpening leave the "detail" slider at 0. Thats it. No wormy artifacts. No need to change your whole workflow...

 

On 7/19/2018 at 1:33 PM, Rap Fotografie said:

Dumping Adobe for Capture One? Such nonsense. Learn to use the tools right and Adobe LR and PS produce stunning results.

Bottom line learn what it is you are working with - that is an Xtrans sensor vs a Bayer sensor.  Fuji files are created with an Xtrans sensor which is quite sharper than a file created with a Bayer sensor.  Therefore default settings in Lightroom tend to over-sharpen when translating from the RAW format; thus creating worms.  This can be proven by simply over-sharpening any image - you will get the same effect.

I use a preset while importing to my Lightroom Catalog that sets all sharpening to 0, then as Capture One does, I increase the Noise Reduction to 50.  This provides an imported image to work with no different than if it came from a Bayer sensor or if I was in Capture One. 

Lately the "Go To" solution has been to use Capture One, but if you look at the default import settings it simply decreases sharpening and adds Noise Reduction to remove the worms.  Truth is both Lightroom and Capture One are both great software solutions, they simply handle Bayer & Xtrans sensors files a bit differently so you need to adjust accordingly.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The discussion on this topic is as old as the X-Trans sensor itself. It is now a well-established fact that Capture One and Silkypix Developer Studio offer the best approach to read out the correct sensor data, unless you only use Fujifilm X RAW Studio. You can certainly get good results in Adobe LR too, but the handling of the X-Trans sensor is different than in the three converters mentioned.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also bought that charger ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08BYB4H1C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details ) (but from a different brand: Patona). I was already annoyed, when I opened the box of my new X-T5 and then no charger inside. Fuji sells that original charger for extra $$$, but then the power adapter is missing. Why? I am buying a camera, not a phone or a tablet or whatsoever. So please give me the charger. Then I opted for the above one, together with 2 batteries. Same price than the Fuji charger alone without 2 "free batteries". No problems at all. And what's cool, that charger is "slow", 4 to 5 hours for a complete charge. So it does not fry the batteries.
    • @HC-110 Yes, disappointing, right. I've sort of given up - I'll never buy Fuji again. I tried interjecting on their social media ads, living comments imploring them to fix what they deliberately changed/broke. But not a word in response.  Something changed at Fuji and it does not benefit the user. -on to other worries.   John
    • Take the Fuji and save some budget. But keep in mind the Fuji has an APC-C sensor, so the effective focal length you get is about 42mm.
    • How do I lock X-E1 exposure in video mode? It's stuck on auto, and the only thing it can be adjusting is ISO, as the shutter is locked at 24fps, and I'm using a vintage Nikon lens - so manual f-stop. I know its not designed to shoot video, but I find it hard to believe a camera of this quality that offers video at full HD 24fps, would not allow an exposure lock function. Without exposure control, the video mode is useless. 
    • I want to share some thoughts with you in order to help me choose the right camera.  I sold almost my photographic equipment and I kept only 2 cameras.  Ricoh GRII and Fujifilm XT5 and some lenses ( 10-24/4 & 35/2 & 56/1,2 & 16-80/4)  My project for the next years is to visit cities and countries around the world and taking street photography and some landscape photography and publish some books with these photos.  Street photography is 80% of my photos now. The rest is landscape photography. Here some key points I want to take only one camera and one lens. No big cameras, no lenses, no bags anymore. I like to be more minimalist in my philosophy to take photos and in my life generally.  I shot 95% Jpeg not RAW. I know the benefits of RAW in editing, dynamic range etc but all cameras has anymore very good jpeg. And it’s ok for me. If a camera has RAW and JPEG I choose this option and keep RAW for the future when I print the books. Then I will edit my final photos for the printing. I I like 28mm not 35mm I sold my Canon and Fujis and I have 8.000$ in stock. For my new camera and for my first trips.  I read many reviews and I decided to buy one of these 2 cameras for my basic camera.  Leica Q3  Or  Fuji X100 VI with 28mm lens  Would you like please to send me your opinion about this dilemma? Which you would prefer Leica Q3 or Fuji X100VI and why?  Thank you  Greg Plat. 
×
×
  • Create New...