Lightroom colours tested vs in-camera

[flysurfer]

In the menus, once you've set your WB you have the possibility of doing a WB shift, it's not number precise but I've managed to use it to correct my X-Pro1 and 2 colour bias.

 

 

That's a way to actually introduce a difference between imported Lightroom A-WB and Camera A-WB, because WB Shift is not recognized/applied by Lightroom upon import. However, that difference is exactly what the OP wants to avoid in Lightroom.

 

Of course, WB Shift a great way to change the color tint of SOOC JPEGs before or after the fact. You can read more about it in my ancient book on the X-Pro1, but it certainly won't solve the OP's problem. 

 

Btw, the OP could use a warmer WB setting (Kelvin or a preset) in the camera, as color temperature settings are imported and applied in Lightroom. In any case, as long as the same film simulation presets are applied, Lightroom renderings don't look warmer or colder than in-camera JPEG renderings. I have just checked it with the X-Pro2. Sadly, Lightroom's settings are less accurate with older cameras (EXR I & II), but that only affects grading (particularly shadows), not WB. 

[Dave Rosser]

That's a way to actually introduce a difference between imported Lightroom A-WB and Camera A-WB, because WB Shift is not recognized/applied by Lightroom upon import. However, that difference is exactly what the OP wants to avoid in Lightroom.

 

Of course, WB Shift a great way to change the color tint of SOOC JPEGs before or after the fact. You can read more about it in my ancient book on the X-Pro1, but it certainly won't solve the OP's problem. 

 

Btw, the OP could use a warmer WB setting (Kelvin or a preset) in the camera, as color temperature settings are imported and applied in Lightroom. In any case, as long as the same film simulation presets are applied, Lightroom renderings don't look warmer or colder than in-camera JPEG renderings. I have just checked it with the X-Pro2. Sadly, Lightroom's settings are less accurate with older cameras (EXR I & II), but that only affects grading (particularly shadows), not WB. 

Thanks for the input - I experimented this morning and discovered how right you are.  Seems my best bet is to use RAW convertor auto white balance on import to give a better white balance starting point than as shot.  Something of a change in my workflow as I have always used as shot as a starting point with all my old Nikon Cameras and with my RX100 iii.

[Rauber]

@Dave Rosser

In Lightroom you can go to the Camera Calibration tab and use the Red Primary slider to push or remove some red from the whole image. This might help. 

 

@TO

I used LR, Silky Pix / EX2 and Irident Developer for Fuji images and may could add some findings. I use primary Astia for portraits and upto ISO6400 with AWB all the time.

 

The best results I got so far are from Silky Pix / EX2. It shows that Fuji helped them with the color profiles. They are very close to the OOC colors. Irident is second place but there are different custom profiles that might give you different results. The worst is Lightroom. Sometimes the colors match quite well but sometimes they have nothing in common. Might be an issue of WB too. A problem with the LR profiles is the dark crushing. All LR profiles are to dark. Unfortunately raising the black slider is no cure. Dark details are easily lost and might even be eaten by a posterization effect.

 

I own a X-A1 and a X-T10. My impression is that both perform different with their colors. The X-Trans images lean to the magenta side and the bayer images look more yellow. I prefer the X-A1 results. After playing with the WB of the X-T10 images I think the OP is right. The images need some slight yellow shift to look more healthy.