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Of course, the JPGs probably show a small difference, as the processor is different. They added LMO and stuff, and likely a few more tweaks. But to base ones decision of a camera on a tiny change in the JPGs is crazy advice if you ask me, ambassador or not. Not to mention that the jpg settings can be tweaked and customized in-camera and probably look virtually the same as they did in the Pro1 anyway.

 

But Aswald said 'because of the sensor', and this is absolutely not true. The only difference of the sensor are the phase-detect pixels that were added, which is a huge advantage of the X-T1 among other things.

 

I think we did more than compare jpeg files in the 5 hour conference........ I certainly agree with you that the X-T1 is a fantastic camera..

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Hi,

 

I have two X-Pro1s and an X100T. I'd advise the X-Pro1 as it's brilliant as i'm sure you're aware, but also very affordable now. An X100T/S is also a good idea if you'd like some of the newer features such as film emulation modes and phase detect AF.

 

When using a Domke F-X5B you'll be able to fit either two X-Pro1s with the 18mm & 35mm attached, or an X-Pro1 with the 56mm or 23mm and an X100T/S. 

 

 

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I have a X100s in my bag as my main camera. Additionally I own a X-T1 mainly mounted with the 56  and the 14 if i want to go wide. 

This combo lets me photograph almost everything except wildlife. I also bought the macro adapter MCEX-16 which is still in my bag.

 

IMHO Fuji cams are f*cking awesome!!!

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Since the XT-1 and 56 f1.2 came out, I have shot that combination along with the X-Pro1 with the 14mm. The 14 works with the X-Pro1's optical viewfinder. Zone focusing from infinity down to a few feet is easy at f8 using manual focus. Often, I'll put the 14 down at ground level and aim it at my subject without specific composition. I try to keep the "film plane" squared vertically and horizontally. As you might have guessed, I shoot more action than landscape work. 

 

The XT-1 with the 56 works well close to wide open unless I'm interested in a group shot. I've had good luck grabbing quick portraits by shooting on S and using a small square to focus on the eyes and reframe. Low light slows me down some. I'm old enough that fast manual focus is a lost art even with the aids. The X-t1 battery grip extends the time between battery changes and speeds up changing the process with the grip battery much quicker to change then the internal one. The X-Pro1 battery takes extra time with a half-case. Just lost my Gariz shooting a steeplechase when I didn't keep the tripod screw tight. Changing batteries and cards, you have to tweak the screw a bit each time. Rather than cranking it down, I'd leave it a little loose to make rotating it a half-turn easier. On my case, fully tight the screw's collapsable half-loop obstructed the battery compartment door. I let it get too loose and when I got home the X-Pro1 felt thinner. The lovely black leather piece was gone. Word to Gariz: Make the tripod screw with coin slot or hex wrench hole so we can tighten it and forget it. Otherwise, the Gariz gave the X-Pro1 the perfect "feel" with protection of its most vulnerable parts--the bottom edges.

 

Musiccitybill

Nashville

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I have contemplated this same decision for a long time. I ultimately decided that I wanted my second camera to be different enough from my primary camera that I would  have a reason to use it instead. This is the X100S for me. The more compact size and the unique shooting experience means that I still choose to use it at times over my X-T1. I think that the X100 series offers a great backup for Fuji shooters using one of the ILC bodies. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I own a X Pro1 for some time and just got me a used X M1. Same sensor, same battery, can use my beloved lenses and travel lighter because it's more compact body was the reasons to get it. For me it was the perfect choice for a second body. Especially that I spend less then 30% of what I would have paid for a used X100s for example. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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