Jump to content

Which Fuji X-T1 kit should i buy?


pat020282

Recommended Posts

Hey everybody,

 

i want to buy a Fuji X-T1 with one of the kit lenses. 

 

Following lenses are available:

 

18-55

18-135

16-55

10-24

 

I already own following Fuji Primes:

 

23, 27, 35, 56

 

I am also interested in what color would you choose for the X-T1...silver or black?

 

I am open to you recommendations. Thank you very much.

 

Patrick

Link to post
Share on other sites

To me, with that lineup of primes, I would not consider either the 18-55 or 16-55 lenses. They seem redundant and personally If I was shooting in that range I would rather have the prime on.

 

That leaves the question of which do you more frequently shoot: wide or long?

 

I was not aware that the X-T1 was available kitted with the 10-24. But I might be inclined to look at the discounts for each and pick the kit that had the best discount. That is because, personally, I'd like both those lenses eventually :)

 

I tried to decide between silver and black and, for me, I was just unwilling to pay extra for something that was purely cosmetic so chose black. If they were the same price I probably would have gone silver because I think it looks nicer.

 

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you ever want to have a one lens travel solution go with the 18-135.  Especially with the primes you already own, you could take that lens and your favorite prime for portraits and not need another lens.

 

I went with the 18-55, and although it's a good lens, I have kicked myself repeatedly for not getting the 18-135.  There have been too many times I needed the reach and I had to wait till I got the 55-200 just to have it.

 

Go black...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I take the 18-135 with my primes for the zoom utility and OIS when light is good. I also have the 18-55, which has OIS but duplicates a lot of what the primes give with the exception of very low light, extra shallow depth of field. The reach of the 18-135 is nice if you want to carry an all-in-one lens, have good light, and do not need strong subject isolation.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The 18-55 and 16-55 are optically the best. They are optically indistingishable from the primes, except for the maximum and minimum apertures. The 18-55 is also fairly light. If you want a zoom simply so you don't have to switch lenses as often, those are the lenses to go for.

The 10-24 is alright. It gives you focal length options you don't have and it's optically good. If you simply want to expand your wide-angle options, though, the 14mm and 16mm are both a little sharper and faster. 10-24 isn't really a focal length that is going to adequately replace your primes. This is the lens to get if you want to add to your existing primes as a full kit, it's not a lens to get if you want to leave your primes at home.

The 18-135 is optically the weakest, and for most of its focal length it is the slowest lens. It's also comparatively large and heavy. If you want to expand your focal length options and you want to have just one lens on your camera and never change, this is the one to get. You're swapping quality for convenience.

There's no right option here. All depends on why you want a zoom and what you expect to get out of it compared to your primes.

 

 

As for colour, I'm of the mind that every Fuji looks better in silver. The silver X-T1 is also slightly, slightly more weather-resistant and tougher than the black version. Just bear in mind with the X-T1 that silver comes with an additional cost.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Because the sensor assembly is moved electrmagnetically. When there is no power it is essentially free moving.
    • Ahoy ye hearties! Hoist ye yon Jolly Roger and Cascade away. NGC 1502 The Jolly Roger Cluster:

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      This is the equivalent of 43 minutes, 40 seconds of exposure. NGC 1502 is a neat little cluster located in the Camelopardalis Constellation. This region of space was thought to be fairly empty by early astronomers, but as you can see, there is a lot there. Kemble's Cascade (a.k.a. Kemble 1) is named for Father Lucian Kemble, a Canadian Franciscan friar who wrote about it to Walter Scott Houston, an author for the Sky And Telescope magazine. Houston named the asterism for Fr. Kemble and the name "stuck". NGC 1501 is the Oyster Nebula. A longer focal length telescope is needed to bring this one into good viewing range, but it is well worth the effort. NGC 1502: https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/ngc-1502/ Camelopardalis Constellation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camelopardalis Kemble's Cascade (and NGC 1501: The Oyster Nebula): https://www.constellation-guide.com/kembles-cascade/ Arrrrrr Matey.
    • Looking for input; there are some decent deals and might want to take advantage to expand my lenses for my 100s already own: 110/2 32-64 35-70 100-200 + TC   Shooting mostly family shots, bringing my kit to capture family outings indoors and out. Tracking the 63/43 effective FLs on the two, but has anybody used both? Would the 55 (covered by two zooms right now) be redundant? Would the 80 be too similar in character to my 110 for portraiture?
    • See what I mean? Two instantaneous ads. Worthless.   
×
×
  • Create New...