I recently purchased a used fujifilm x pro 2 which looks really in great condition. There are only 1-2 really small and not really noticeable scratches.
So the problem I have is actually that the camera sometimes doesn't turn on. I switch it off between taking pictures while walking and sometimes when I try to turn it back on it doesn't light up. I've read here and there that a few other people also encountered this issue but didn't really update us on it.
So my question is if someone has dealt with this and what could be a solution to it.
If there's no solution I actually really like my fuji x pro 2 and would be interested if the issue becomes worse with time or it stays quite the same.
Thanks in advance guys!
What real-time exposure display options are available with manual lenses? I am investigating Fuji, with an X-T1 and a manual lens (no contacts). I want to see what ISO and SS my camera has chosen, with the current lens settings. (I would also like to use program shift to change the ISO/SS combination up or down.) There may just be some setting somewhere that I didn't think applied to this? I have turned on all the display options and have tried the different displays, but no ISO or SS displayed unless I manually set them, or if I depress the shutter [but that's not real-time, as I change the aperture ring]. I have the newest firmware, and I have reset my camera's settings several times, so almost all my settings should be at the defaults.
I am very used to Olympus OM-D E-M1. On my OM-D camera, as I reduce the aperture on the lens, I see my ISO 200 / SS 1/30 move, maybe to 200 & 1/15. Then if I move it further, maybe this time it changes the ISO to 400 and keeps the SS at 1/15... but I see it all change as I move the aperture. If there's no clicks then I see it make minute even fractional changes to ISO & SS. Program shift via the front dial will also change the ISO/SS up and down.
First post here.
Hope some Fuji users can help - any questions answered will be helpful - thanks in advance.
I currently shoot with a Nikon D90 and 50mm prime for street photography. I really want to switch to Fuji. I went to check out the Fuji range and was initially considering the X-T20, X-T2, X-Pro 2. (All with 35mm F2)
After putting the EVF to my eyes for a minute I felt kind of sea sick, Ive never looked through an EVF before. So I am left with OVF as the only option. This leaves the X100F and X-Pro 2 as my only options.
1) I wear glasses - and found the viewfinder very small on the X-Pro 2, the OVF is also quite unusual to use. Does anyone else find it difficult to use (glasses wearers?) Is parallax an issue here?
2) I see the X100F OVF seems much bigger and clearer, do users find this?
3) Im concerned to buy an X100F as the fixed lens may be restrictive - I know it has crop modes, does the OVF adjust to the crop mode selected - or only the frame lines?
4) Should I wait for X-Pro 3 before buying X-Pro 2? (either because X-Pro 2 prices may drop, or because they may improve the OVF on X-Pro 3?)
5) I know they are different cameras - but would you get an X-Pro 2 over an X100F? I like the X-Pro 2 more aesthetically (doesn't mean its better in practice)
I always get blurry shots when I use a fully manual lens on my X-T20. I have focus peaking activated and when I view it from the EVF, it seems really sharp but when I actually take the shot, it comes out blurry. I don't have this problem with the X-A3. What could I be doing wrong with the X-T20? For reference, I use Meike 35mm f1.7, meike 50mm f2, 7artisans 25mm f1.8, and samyang 12mm f2
I get conflicting info online. I am trying to figure out whether the hole for the EVF/OVF is bigger on the xpro2 vs xpro1. Some say 16mm vs 14mm. Which is it?
Also, some claim the magnification is larger on the xpro2 vs xpro1, and then some spec lists claim that it is actually smaller. Which is it?
My only local camera store closed last year so I have no way of finding out for my self unless I order online.
Thank you for checking, I have just observed the same behavior with the 35mm f/2 - X-S10 with v2.10 chooses 1/100s. I guess I will use the specific minimum shutter speed or simply force myself to use the M mode more.
Hi All, This is my first post. Hope this hasn't been covered before. I have something I'm trying to figure out on my x100v. I typically have my camera in natural live view with "Preview Exposure" off because I don't like seeing my exposure settings reflected in the image in the EVF. However, it seems that, in this setup, the live histogram no longer adjusts based on my exposure settings... Is there any way to get the histogram to show results based on what the resulting image will be without having the EVF brighten/darken based on exposure settings? With "preview exposure" on, I find it hard to compose-- especially in certain situations when trying to protect the HL's. Thanks very much! Collin
Hi all,Second post here would appreciate the input. I just purchased an X-T3 and X-H1.The EVFs on paper are meant to be the same with same refresh rates when in boost mode.The sizes are also meant to be almost exactly the same at 0.50 inches X-T3 and 0.48 inches X-H1 with the same resolution.However the X-H1 EVF feels smaller (bigger black border around the edges) and not as clear. It also gives me eye strain after just a few minutes. (I have adjusted diopter). It feels like its further away if that makes sense?Has anyone else noticed a difference between the EVFs when using them side by side because on paper they are meant to be the same. Perhaps its just this particular X-H1.Thanks,
I must have activated the wrong setting because now when I switch to the OVF the white windows stays for a second and then completely disappears. Any idea how to get it back? Thank you all so much. 🙂