Jump to content

Need input on lens selection


Recommended Posts



I'm going to be a fuji-shooter! and now I need some input on which lenses to choose. Currently I have a canon 7d (crop sensor), 24-70mm f4L IS, 35mm f2 IS, 40mm STM and Sigma 50mm f1.4 (to give you some background). My 24-70mm was acquired for my outdoor trips where I found changing primes cumbersome. Otherwise I prefer shooting with primes. I choose my lenses based on a combination of optical quality, weight and size. This is the reason for my rather strange compilation of lenses. I have for some time wanted something wider than 24mm (I was planning on upgrading to 6d mk ii). 


I have ordered XT2, 18-55mm and 50mm f2. On the long end I'll wait for the announced 80mm f2.8 macro, so mostly I'm interested in tips and advice on the wide end. I struggled with the decision between 35mm and 50mm, and looking through my LR library I saw I had shot approx the same amount of pics with both lenses (when limited to the time period I have owned both). When looking at the focal lengths I have used with my 24-70mm I had taken marginally more photos in the 50mm ± 2-3 mm. 


I have budgeted some more money on lenses and here is my question. With this kit, what would you recommend? I can either go for: 

1. 16mm f1.4 

2. Samyang 12mm f2 and 23mmf2 or 35mmf2 (where 35mmf2 being the most likely, however 23mmf2 would be a better option as it covers more focal lengths...)


I want something on the wide end, but not sure on which combo to buy... So any comment, recommendation or personal view would be very much appreciated. 


Best regards, 





Link to post
Share on other sites

Julie, you might also consider the Fujinon 10-24 f4 a cracker!

Thanks for the input! I have considered it, but as I do prefer primes over zooms I landed on the two above combinations... I also get a way faster lens.


Julie [emoji2]


Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the 12mm Samyang and I am very happy with it.


One note your comment on “ faster” lenses.


Do you use much, or at all, any of these lenses at its widest aperture?


I find that most people say this thing of preferring faster lenses but unless you are using open apertures to separate the subject from its background (hardly on a super wideangle and only feasible at the closest of the focussing distance)  the use of lenses at its widest aperture only returns soft (at best) pictures, even on a wideangle, because much won’t be in focus or covered by depth of field.


This is even more true of longer lenses of course. Indeed the 56mm f1.2 has almost imperceptible depth of field at its closest focussing distance measurable in millimeters.


In the olden days, before the mirrorless revolution, it made sense to have a very bright and light efficient lens since you were looking and focussing trough the mirror the real image through the lens and prism , but this is, with mirrorless cameras, no longer the case.


You are looking at an enhanced image on a lcd screen, not a image trough lens and prism which helps you compose and then you or the camera stop it down at the working aperture when sooting  , if you use a lens like the 12mm where the aperture is not automatic, you change it between 2 and 4 (or more) and unless you are in light conditions that would make almost impossible to shoot , you won’t see much difference at all on your mirrorless ( in automatic or at the correct exposure) screen because the image keeps of being enhanced in luminosity terms .


Yes at extreme low EV values there will be visible noise but there will be noise anyway, whether you look (but probably not shoot) at 1.6 or 5.6 

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Julie,

Since most of your shots are taken at 35mm and 50mm (not sure if you are referring to APCS or Full Frame equaivalent setting) why don't you use the 18-55 a bit to determine how wide you really want to go? 18mm is already much wider than your 24-70mm 

There is a big difference between 12mm and 16mm

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I am primarily a JPG shooter, but store RAW's in parallel just for the case when I need them. In camera conversion is interesting and as I don't use RAW converters or studios, it is interesting for me to tweak individual images. I was used to do so on my X-E1 and X-T1. It was cumbersome but working. I was very confident that more features would be available on the X-T5 but NO. The in-camera RAW conversion would be perfect for me if Fuji would implement the following features (but they didn't do so in the last 10 years, so these upgrades will probably never come): The generated JPG should have the same filename as the original image + a numbered addition to the original filename. If my original file is DSCF3005.RAF/JPG and if in the evening, after a day of shooting I tweak that image in the camera, I want that one to be named DSCF3005-2.JPG, or DSCF3005-A.JPG. It is absolute nonsense to name that image DSCF3356.JPG, just because it was generated after the last shot DSCF3357.RAF/JPG. In my file archive, on the computer I can then keep or just delete the original JPG. As it is now, I have a complete chaos when generating JPG's on the camera. There is no possibility of a batch conversion ... . Why isn't it possible to define settings, and then to let the camera do the conversion on a selection of files? Or why can't I select predefined settings when I am in a conversion menu? If I want to change the parameters of 6 photos, I have to make all the settings 6-times inside the converter. And there is no possibility to save the changes in the original RAF-file. WHY? I can revert to the original parameters, when playing in the converter but I cannot save the changed parameters. Complete nonsense. And we are in 2024 ... . Again, some missing features.   
    • I have an unusual issue with my Xt2. It will focus in any mode with all my Fuji lenses except the 35 1.4. I can’t get any focus response at all with that lens fitted, manual, single or continuous. The 35 1.4 works flawlessly with my xpro2, xe3 and Xh1. its got me completely bamboozled. Can anyone offer a solution please?
    • Playing around with sims in Capture One, 70-300 @70mm f4. Fujifilm Mono.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • The firmware update helped me, seems to be better.  AF is not great at picking up moving birds in the sky, especially bright blue sky and a single bird, hit or miss, but otherwise OK.  Low light is a different story.
    • The FUJIFILM BC-W235 Dual Battery Charger is top notch and provides clear easy to understand charging status.  Highly recommended! Dual battery charger BC-W235
  • Create New...