Jump to content

This Morning's Treat!


merlin

Recommended Posts

Thanks for responding.  The jpeg of the daylily (#1) is exposed correctly, but the other 4 jpegs are, as you stated, overexposed.  Since the RAFs are not, I wonder why?  I probably did not notice since my monitor brightness is set to medium.

 

I processed the RAFs of the last 4, and these are now posted.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for responding.  The jpeg of the daylily (#1) is exposed correctly, but the other 4 jpegs are, as you stated, overexposed.  Since the RAFs are not, I wonder why?  I probably did not notice since my monitor brightness is set to medium.

 

I processed the RAFs of the last 4, and these are now posted.

 

RAFs have 14-bits of dynamic range, JPEGs 8-bits. Part of the art of processing raw files is in determining how to squeeze that 14-bits down to 8. It looks like you had some 'highlight recovery' going on there too, in which the raw development software tries to fill in blown out regions with the color of the surroundings (resulting in large, detail-less patches of color). Flowers are tough for subjects with digital for multiple reasons, but one is that it's easy to blow out e.g. the red channel while there's still plenty of headroom in the blue and green channels. Recovery here looks bad too, but not as bad as when all three channels are blown.

 

Take home lesson: a properly exposed flower shot should look under-exposed before processing (and probably after too, if you want to maintain any detail in the petals).

 

Bear in mind that display calibration entails calibrating the brightness and gamma also. The ideal brightness is a matter of opinion, but 110-120 nits is a common value.  Any decent colorimeter should be able to do this. BUT this also entails having a standard level of ambient illumination. So if your workstation is in a room with variable lighting (i.e. daylight), all bets are off (unless you have one of the fancy colorimeters that stays plugged in all the time to measure ambient illum. and compensate--even then there are compromises).

 

As always, the histogram and your software's over/under exposure warning indicators are more objective guides than your own perception.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Because the sensor assembly is moved electrmagnetically. When there is no power it is essentially free moving.
    • Ahoy ye hearties! Hoist ye yon Jolly Roger and Cascade away. NGC 1502 The Jolly Roger Cluster:

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      This is the equivalent of 43 minutes, 40 seconds of exposure. NGC 1502 is a neat little cluster located in the Camelopardalis Constellation. This region of space was thought to be fairly empty by early astronomers, but as you can see, there is a lot there. Kemble's Cascade (a.k.a. Kemble 1) is named for Father Lucian Kemble, a Canadian Franciscan friar who wrote about it to Walter Scott Houston, an author for the Sky And Telescope magazine. Houston named the asterism for Fr. Kemble and the name "stuck". NGC 1501 is the Oyster Nebula. A longer focal length telescope is needed to bring this one into good viewing range, but it is well worth the effort. NGC 1502: https://skyandtelescope.org/online-gallery/ngc-1502/ Camelopardalis Constellation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camelopardalis Kemble's Cascade (and NGC 1501: The Oyster Nebula): https://www.constellation-guide.com/kembles-cascade/ Arrrrrr Matey.
    • Looking for input; there are some decent deals and might want to take advantage to expand my lenses for my 100s already own: 110/2 32-64 35-70 100-200 + TC   Shooting mostly family shots, bringing my kit to capture family outings indoors and out. Tracking the 63/43 effective FLs on the two, but has anybody used both? Would the 55 (covered by two zooms right now) be redundant? Would the 80 be too similar in character to my 110 for portraiture?
    • See what I mean? Two instantaneous ads. Worthless.   
×
×
  • Create New...