Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I was shooting my X-pro 2 camera with a 35mm F1.4 today, everything was working great. Then at the very end of the shoot, my viewfinder and image starting to have a monochromatic red/pink tone over everything, no other colors were visible, only red/pink. I continued with the shoot and figured I would adjust the RAW later. 

Got back, I looked at the RAW and the image is fine. However the camera is still doing the same problem. Here is what I have done to try and fix the problem.

 

1. Reset the camera, negative on fixing the problem

2. Switched WB to different setting to see if that did anything, negative on fixing the problem

3. Upgraded the Firmware to 3.0, negative on fixing the problem.

 

Please advise if anyone has experienced this before or know how to fix it.

 

Thank you

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Cedar Waxwing, Oregon. X-H2s, Fuji 150-600+1.4TC.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • Have you checked the settings for jpeg? I found the camera was slow between shots. On the advice of others in this forum I turned 'clarity' tp zero and that makes it much faster. Other jpeg settings on that menu might also make it slow. Lens corrections for instance. I have them at zero because I shoot RAW. Paul
    • No, I was not joking. Reread her post, the first sentence is “The focus mode selector button on the front of the camera has  me baffled.” which is what I explained in my answer: the focus mode selector button. My CSM explanation is essentially the standard approach Fujifilm has taken for some time. Explaining the frame rate differences as I did to someone brand new to the camera seems an easier approach to understanding than saying it is 20fps vs 7fps. Not to mention, the following is how Fujifilm describes it: “Continuous AF: Focus is continually adjusted to reflect changes in the distance to the subject while the shutter button is pressed halfway. Use for subjects that are in motion”  https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/  You have to go to page 166 of the manual to get to a very brief explanation of CH vs CL without any context. High speed capture vs slower speed capture seems appropriate to explain so that someone that had been given the impression the top dials are needed for the csm button would realize how they work. I think it is better than saying put the csm button on S the top dial on CH and mash the shutter button — there is no example of when to use that or why. The X-T5 is a wonderful tool, but sometimes examples, humorous or otherwise, help new users understand it better when the manual does not help or when people tell new users to just leave it alone. 
    • The burst speed of the shutter is set by the CL and CH control on top of the camera, it is unrelated to the focus mode setting on the S C M control. The focus speed is not related to the burst speed setting. You might have been joking, but your post adds confusion.
    • This switch is for your lens’ auto-focusing. ”C” tells the body to use continuous focusing, either CL (low speed -  for slow moving puppies, kittens or kids) CH (high speed - for faster moving puppies, kittens or kids or anything that.moves quickly or frenetically). CH or CL is set using the top dial settings. The subject keeps moving and it may be tricky to keep trying to focus to get the photo using the standard compose / focus/ take the photo technique. ”S” is for single shot focusing, point at the subject, half press the shutter button to compose/ focus, then full press to take the photo. Or just push the shutter button to get the image if the situation is suitable. ”M” is for manual focusing, you twist the ring on the lens to set the focus as you want then press the shutter button to get the shot. The focus is entirely up to you, the camera treats the lens as if it does not have a motor in it. Okay, that is mostly true, there are some very old lenses such as the version one 14mm f2.8 lens that can be set to override this setting and autofous anyway, but Fujifilm has not used that design in many years. Note: There are many aids built into the camera to help you manually focus your shots. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/autofocus/ https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/taking_photo/manual-focus/ As you can guess, this switch setting does not have to completely match the top dial settings, manual exposure settings are different than manual focusing, I am surprised you were told not to mess with it. p.s. You may want to pose your questions in the dedicated X-T5 section to get quicker responses from the X-T5 users.  
×
×
  • Create New...