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Thank you. I am a pathetic beginner- in way over my head with this camera. Your info is great. I will practice this tonight on cars driving by my street. -
It seems good you were able to find an answer to your question shortly after posing it. As to your remaining question, can you give some more details? Because what you are describing is very unusual. Which card reader were you using to move the images to your computer? Were you double clicking the card’s disk image to open it and then using the finder to select all of the images you wanted to move, then dragging them over to a folder on your Mac? Did you use the eject command before removing the card from the card reader? There are a couple of things to also try. Take a few new images using a freshly formatted card, put the card in the reader. Open the app Image Capture and use it to move the photos. Use the eject command before removing the card and see it the card is still messed up. If so, try again, but this time before putting the card in the reader, slide the write protect switch on the card to the protect spot. [The write protect switch is a small little tab on the side of the card.] Move the images, which safely eject the card and put it back in the camera. Let us know how things go — uh yeah sometimes it can take a while to get an answer. https://support.apple.com/guide/image-capture/welcome/mac -
I reply to myself, as - after searching and experimenting this and that during several days - I found today the reason to my problem... Should I tell that, as I haven't got any comments from you, the community? Ok, jokes apart. THE point is that the option Auto update custom settings under Image quality settings needs to be ENABLED! Well, as the manual is so obscure, not specific, with too short explanations and too general, I needed some 1-2 weeks (of course not day and night to find the solution. Anyway, now my X-T50's ISO setting holds, to that I set it. By the way, the camera with the quality of the pictures, is great!!!! I love X-T50 after my reliable Nikon. Well, one more thing, I would like this working: I transfer pictures to my Mac by using the app Photo transfer by wire because it is hazardous to take the memory card from the camera and put it to my MacBookPro because after Mac's reading the X-T50 doesn't recognise it any more!! Nothing but formatting the card *in my Nikon* helps, to get X-T50 to work with the card. So are there for this second issue any solutions?? -
Welcome to the forum. There are some sports oriented photographers that stop by now and then that may give you better tips. You did not mention your photography background, so please forgive me if I say something you already know. Practice. Practice. Practice. Your son might be happy to indulge this 😀. Set the lens to auto focus and for now, concentrate on the three basic parts, shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Set the ISO around 800 to 1600. This may seem too bright for a sunny day, but it will give you room to use the aperture and shutter speed without the scene getting dark. If the lighting is darker, use ISO 1600 to 6400. Set the f-stop on the lens to around 5.6, this should give you enough depth of field (the sharp in focus part) to get his face and most of his bike — this will also depend on how close you are to him — while blurring some of the backgound. As you get used to what this aperture does at the distance you are from him, try other settings, wide open (the smallest f-stop number) can give you very pleasing results as can f16. Remember you are focusing on him, not taking landscape photos, so the background blurring is going to be different. And the last part, shutter speed. Start around 1/400. The higher the shutter speed, the less motion blurring you get and the more the foreground will seem in focus. This is why you need the higher ISO, because higher shutter speeds will make the image go very dark. Try a bunch of the speeds. There is an art to getting the right blurring for the shot, from none at all to massively blurred. Then back to the practice part. After this, those other things on your camera are there to give you options in your approaches. You might set Auto ISO up so you can concentrate on shutter speed without worrying what rapidly changing sky clouds are doing to the images. Or how to use the back lcd as a focus aid, etc. Bring in these new options in a few at a time. Oh yeah, take the lens off auto focus mode and see how you like that, it does work.
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By Gorgeous xe2s user · Posted
Hi, A couple of months ago I picked up my first fujifilm camera, the X-E2s. Been using it since then with a manual 25mm focus lens, works perfectly fine. But recently I've bought a fresh, af lens, the 35mm f/1.8 from ttartisans. And I've been having issues with it. Mainly, I've experienced weird problems with aperature control, since the lens has no aperature ring, its controlled electronicly. When setting the aperature control to manual, the aperature blades move randomly when setting a fixed aperature. The lens is often closed on high f value. This problem really ruins the photos when trying to shoot in low light and I'm trying to set aperature to like f/2 but the lens is still stuck at very high aperature (I can see the blades closed) even though I've set it correctly on the camera. Other times, when shooting in medium to bright light, the aperature keeps changing randomly, even when I set it to manual and to a fixed value. It's almost like breathing. Also sometimes when I get it to move, it seems that the aperature blades can't open beyond something like f/4. It reaches the opening of f/4 and stays there even when trying to open it more in camera. Of course the values in camera can change, the problem is with the lens aperature blades. And so my question is, is it normal, it working this way? This is my first experience with lenses without aperature ring, I don't know about any mechanics that would explain the lens acting this way. Would really appreciate some feedback, I'm pretty new in photography and I'm just trying yo wrap my head around on how to use this beautiful camera. 😎
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