X Raw Conversion Errorš
-
Similar Content
-
-
Posts
-
Hi Members Do we have a database of fuji lenses and their reviews somewhere in this forum? I remember from my pentax days long ago on the pentaxforum, there is a lens database where it holds the specs, reviews and sample photos and a rating scale on several factors like sharpness, bokeh etc., connected to that particular lens. So was curious to see if something in that line exists. Another - can anyone share a link to comparison between XF 23mm f2 and XF 27mm f2.8 if you have come across on something like that. -
Looks like a falsely applied perspective correction. -
I've had some... not success but definitely a slight improvement playing with different metering modes. Changing the ISO range had no effect. Not sure what you're suggesting with the bulb setting and external timer. That's just going to be fixed exposure length of what 1/2 second? I've got a similar timer that I've used with a Sony in the past and it doesn't allow for exposure ramping. I realise there are timers that do, but even then exposure ramping isn't exactly what you need for HG because it's not a linear transition over time. -
Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image hereā¦
Simply register for free here ā We are always happy to welcome new members!
The M48 to X-Mount adapter with lens cap. The focuser. Loosen the three (screws / bolts) and remove the inner part. Inner part removed and some M48 extension tubes are added to the adapter. Just use long enough extensions for the focuser to hold onto the combination but not so long that when you put them into the focuser, it hits the secondary mirror. That will cause a lot of bad juju.Ā (The small mirror at the top of your Newtonian is called the secondary). Adapter combination attached to my trusty X-T10. Slide the tube into the focuser, tighten the (screws / bolts) and you are good to go. -
The shorter M48 to X-mount adapters are usually the ones that work. The trick with Newtonians is that the focus spot is almost inside the focuser. Edit: I am updating this portion, the older stuff that was here is still valid, but 'a picture and a thousand words and all of that'. If you look at the focuser closely, you see it has the outer part and the inner part sitting inside. Loosen the screws on the outer part, take the inner part out of the focuser and slide in the adapter with the camera attached. Tighten the screws and adjust the focuser as needed. The overall ātrickā is to find the scope specs listing for what is called back focus (for many refractor scopes it will be 55mm, but for reflector scopes it will be very different depending on what kind of scope it is, rc scopes have very different back focus distances than do Newtonians than do ā¦) Okay, Fujifilm X-mount cameras have what is called the flange distance (the distance from the mount spot to the sensor in the body) of 17.7mm. If your scope or accessory has a back focus of 55mm, subtract 17.7 from 55 to get 37.3mm that you need extension tubes to cover. Most Newtonians have very short back focus distances, so you almost need to have the camera inside the focuser. Other bodies, Canon, Sony, Nikon, etc. with deeper flange distances are more troublesome when trying to use them with standard Newtonian scopes. Edit: It occurs to me that I could hopefully make this a bit clearer by demonstrating with one of my scopes, so in a bit, I will post that and not rely on looking at other sites for visuals. I will try to do so quickly and come back and edit this posting. HTH.
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now