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X-E1, is it still worth it?


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Hi there,

 

My Sony A6000 is failing, so I probably need to buy a new camera soon.

At the moment I can't invest in a pricey new camera, so I have to look at some used one.

My main focus is urban/street. I thought the X-Pro1 could be a good candidate, but then I read is very slow.

How the X-E1 perform? Is it still a good camera to consider?

I will use manual lenses with adapters, mostly 24-35mm and I will shoot manual all the time. Later on, I might buy a focal reducer as well.

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With the possible exception of auto-focus, which you may not need, and the better viewfinder on the newer X-Series, I think the X-E1 is still a very good performer.

 

I have an X-E2, but still use my older X-M1 (which has the same sensor and internals as the X-E1) as I prefer the jpegs from the older sensor.

 

I think I really only miss my X-E2 when trying to use auto focus in low light, or when I need to use a viewfinder.  (But I miss my X-M1 when I need a tilting screen or want a more compact camera!)

 

But compare prices of a good used X-E2 to an X-E1 - as the X-E2 with the latest firmware is the equivalent of the current X-E2S model.

 

And if you don't use a viewfinder much - look at new X-M1 - they can be found for around $350, with the XC zoom lens.

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Yes the X-E1 is still a good camera and yes the images are great, and yes focus acquisition is somewhat slow but very precise.

 

The X-E2 with the 18-55mm was on sale briefly for $699 during the last sales cycle - if you need the lens and are OK with this price range (and the Sony holds up) hold your breath for an E2/E2s/T10.  With the A-3 and T-20 on the way the next factory authorized sales should be at least as good as the last one.

 

The XF-18-55mm is only discounted as a kit lens (list is a somewhat high $699 and the kit price is now $300 but used are still $400) then the body in a X-E2 kit on sale cost only $300-350 and that's a bargain for a new camera this good.

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Great,

 

Thanks for the info, that's good to know.

 

I always shoot with old OM Zuiko 24mm or Nikon 24 mm, so auto-focus is not an issue.

 

My main concerns are:

1- Time needed between each shutter. As I shoot urban and street, sometimes I tend to take multiple photos in rapid succession. Old mirrorless suffered from the slow reaction, which is what concerns me.

2- Quality of the EVF. Considered I'm used to the A6000 which, to me, is a pretty good EVF, I don't know what to expect from the X-E1. That said, I know how the X-T10 viewfinder looks and I like it very much. Hopefully, the X-E1's is not too far from the X-T10's

 

Best,

Andrew

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Thanks for the info, johant.

 

Do you know anything about the speed of the X-E1? I mean, is there any lag between each shutter release?

Old mirrorless were used to be kind of slow, after each snap, there was a moment to wait in order for the camera to be ready again.

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I had an X-E1, it was my first Fujifilm camera, and I considered it slow. The AF was slow and the EVF was also slow, sort of had some lag to it. The X-E2 resolved both those issues. If you are going to manual focus, the AF doesn't matter much. For me, the EVF was diffucult to see the focus peaking. I do not know if any of that improved with firmware updates as I sold it for the X-E2. Other than that, it was a great camera. I have seen some decent prices on used X-E2 bodies, but I'm seeing fewer used Fujis for sale.

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  • 4 months later...

Is the Fuji X-E1 slow ? It is not ! My Hasselblad 500 C/M is slow. And my Linhof Master Technika is even slower. Look for the photographes of the Hindenburg zeppelin disaster at Lakehearst N.J. at May 6th 1937. Mr. Becker made 15 exp. in less than 50 seconds.

The photographers shot plenty of pictures with 4 x 5 Speed Graphics. They were not whining about the speed of their cameras, They were professional photographers. The limitation of the speed is in the photo amateur's mind.

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Is the Fuji X-E1 slow ? It is not ! My Hasselblad 500 C/M is slow. And my Linhof Master Technika is even slower. Look for the photographes of the Hindenburg zeppelin disaster at Lakehearst N.J. at May 6th 1937. Mr. Becker made 15 exp. in less than 50 seconds.

The photographers shot plenty of pictures with 4 x 5 Speed Graphics. They were not whining about the speed of their cameras, They were professional photographers. The limitation of the speed is in the photo amateur's mind.

 

Right! Who needs this newfangled technology! Why, back in the day painters took hours, days, or even *months* to create images, they were not whining about the speed, they were professional. (Sorry, couldn't resist ;) )

 

As for camera speed for the topic starter: my experience is with the x-pro1, but probably the E1 will be the same. Right after taking the picture you will not be able to use the digitally zoomed image for the manual focus aid until the shot has been saved on the SD card. This may be annoying if you shoot raw (or jpg/raw combo) and if you want to take a shot, refocus, shoot again in one fluent move, since saving the image takes a few seconds, breaking the flow just that tiny bit. I don't know how well other cameras handle this specific situation and shooting without refocussing is no problem thanks to the camera buffer.

Edited by Florian
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  • 2 months later...

I'm resuming this old post as I'm currently shooting with the X-T10.

It's a great camera but as a street shooter I kind of miss the evf on the left and a smaller body. In other words, I like the X-T10 but I'm not digging the feeling.

Should I go for an X-E1, what I would miss from the X-T10?

I only shoot manual, with old vintage lenses and the Lens Turbo ii.

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If I remember correctly, the t10 has classic chrome film emulation mode, which the E1 certainly does not have.

 

On the other hand, the E1 has the same x-trans sensor as the x-pro1 (x10 has the second generation), which many people (see the x-pro1 boards) swear gives a certain 'organic feel' to the images.

Edited by Florian
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Classic Chrome is my least favourite film simulation (of the ones I use, at least). On the X-E1, I think Pro Neg Hi with colour +1 captures the good things of Classic Chrome, while leaving out the specific colour cast.

Edited by johant
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I would like to use a Leica 40mm F2 lens on my Fuji Xe1. When focusing the image is sharp in the viewfinder, however when I lightly touch the shutter button the image gets blurred. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? Is there some special setting I need to use? I have done all the usual settings - set to manual - Lens type to 35mm, as it is the closest etc. Would value any help.

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If focus peaking is enabled, what you're actually seeing are the white lines indicating the in-focus area. When you half-press, those disappear (I think this is done so you can see whether the camera is metering light correctly)

Edited by Florian
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  • 2 years later...

Brilliant camera, in my opinion. I own several fuji cameras and the chip in this body renders beautiful .jpgs especially in Velvia and B/W. It is my go-to body for some applications. It's not the fastest but with the right lens/situation you can get around this with manual zone-focusing, and it's 16.3 Million Pixels which I think is more than enough to be getting on with. Also they are so cheap on the second hand market. Definitely a camera worth having in your inventory. Here are three images to illustrate my case: first two using an 18mmF2 and third using a 14mmF2.8  With the 18mm I pre-focused on the ground roughly where I felt that my up-coming subject would pass me by and using f8 - this can be a tricky lens to use with moving subjects - and with the 14mm at f11 zone-focusing which is a dream in the right conditions with this particular lens. The .jpgs have been adjusted to taste using Photoshop with some very simple tweaks.

 

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Edited by Sean Potter
To clarify details of image capture and edit
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