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Color inaccuracy of EVF vs LCD (X-T2 vs. X-T1)


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I got my X-T2 last week and immediately noticed that the colors in the live preview I saw on the LCD were different from the colors in the EVF. This was most noticeable when shooting in daylight with a lot of white in the image. 

 

Seems that the EVF has a very strong and neutral white, almost cold and blue – whereas the LCD on my X-T2 tends to display everything more warmer and whites look much more yellow-ish and dirty. In the attached image you can see how the LCD of the X-T2 compares to the X-T1 side by side and the EVF (shot with fixed white balance). The difference in color reproduction is quite clear. I wouldn't mind much if both the LCD and the EVF would consistently display the preview more blue or more yellow. But having 2 displays with 2 different looks in one camera is quite annoying and distracting. 

 

So I wonder if anyone else noticed this or has similar issues – or maybe it's just my model and someone forgot to calibrate the LCD and/or the EVF properly.  :(

 

 

 

 

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The X-Pro2 has a decided bluish cast to the EVF compared to the LCD... bothers me... especially because I mostly use the EVF and it does not match the LCD or what I see with my eyes. On the X-Pro I keep EVF at 0 and LCD also 0... both manual

 

With the X-T2, the EVF is a bit brighter than the LCD. With the X-T2 it seems EVF on manual is too inaccurate and so far I am keeping EVF brightness on Auto. 

 

With custom WB carefully set and then looking through the EVF and then at the scene itself, the X-T2 EVF seems satisfyingly color accurate to me. The LCD does seem slightly warmer but I need to do some more tests specifically testing them under different lighting.

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The X-Pro2 has a decided bluish cast to the EVF compared to the LCD... bothers me... especially because I mostly use the EVF and it does not match the LCD or what I see with my eyes. On the X-Pro I keep EVF at 0 and LCD also 0... both manual

 

With the X-T2, the EVF is a bit brighter than the LCD. With the X-T2 it seems EVF on manual is too inaccurate and so far I am keeping EVF brightness on Auto. 

 

With custom WB carefully set and then looking through the EVF and then at the scene itself, the X-T2 EVF seems satisfyingly color accurate to me. The LCD does seem slightly warmer but I need to do some more tests specifically testing them under different lighting.

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Thanks for your responses guys.

 

Do you have the exact same film simulation and color settings for both cameras? How about WB?

 

You can also manually set the brightness for both EVF and LCD... how are they set?

 

@deva: Yes, it was always Provia with manual Whitebalance and the same brightness level (+3 is the best I think, since +4 and especially +5 shows really strong clipping in the highlights)
 

 

Menu>Setup>Screen Setup>Preview Pic. Effect = OFF.

 

Fuji's obsession with their film simulation has them now setting the EC+VF to display Provia simulation as the default standard. Turn it off and your viewfinder should display normal colours again.

 

@Alan7140: Yes, this reduced the visibility of the color inaccuracy a bit, but it now also doesn't show any Whitebalance anymore and tbh who wants to shoot Fuji without the film simulations :)


I will try to get my hands on some other X-T2 to see if this is general issue. Maybe its something Fuji can fix via a Firmware update. 

 

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@Alan7140: Yes, this reduced the visibility of the color inaccuracy a bit, but it now also doesn't show any Whitebalance anymore and tbh who wants to shoot Fuji without the film simulations :)

 

 

I will try to get my hands on some other X-T2 to see if this is general issue. Maybe its something Fuji can fix via a Firmware update. 

 

 

 

Turning it off doesn't stop you from shooting film simulations, it just stops the EVF displaying them as they will look in the photo, rather than what they actually look like in real life as a normal optical viewfinder would do (other than if you are using a monochrome simulation, where the viewfinder will then have the image displayed that way). The symbol of the simulation you are using will still be in the finder (other than if it's standard).

 

Everyone who shoots raw doesn't need to shoot with film simulations, they can be added later, either in-camera or with software. Anyone who wants to edit their photos without compromising quality won't want to use simulations, either. Jpeg is always 8-bit, and has nowhere near the tonal and colour gradation and fidelity as the full 14-bit raw file the sensor and processor provides. This mightn't be of interest to a casual snapshot shooter, but for anything requiring multiple stages of editing or hi-fidelity large prints, bit depth of the initial file has a big influence on final possible quality.

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I went today to my local photo store and tried a bunch of other X-T2. The described color difference varied widely across the other models. On one the EVF was showing a yellow tint and the LCD was neutral, on another the colors were equally neutral on both the EVF and the LCD. I'm waiting now to get mine checked from Fuji and hope to get it back with neutral colors on both displays :)

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I went today to my local photo store and tried a bunch of other X-T2. The described color difference varied widely across the other models. On one the EVF was showing a yellow tint and the LCD was neutral, on another the colors were equally neutral on both the EVF and the LCD. I'm waiting now to get mine checked from Fuji and hope to get it back with neutral colors on both displays :)

 

 

Interesting... mine is pretty accurate... still waiting on body #2... 

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  • 3 weeks later...

OLEDs are often blue-ish because the color blue degrades faster over life of the device than red and green so the manufacturer starts them more blue. In other words, the blue elements fade over time turning the picture brown-ish. This can be compensated for by such things as trying to run the blue elements at lower, more-efficient power levels and by tracking accumulated time the OLED has been running so the drive power for blue elements increases over the life of the device to give the appearance of stable colors but the methods are not perfect. OLED displays have burn-in like CRTs, except that the colors also degrade at different rates.

 

LCDs remain stable for color a very long time so their calibration should hold for the life of the device. Unfortunately, LCDs often trade color purity for brightness to keep power consumption low. The LCD's ability to re-create the full spectrum and bit-depth the imager records sort of depends upon cost and power consumption.

 

There is a lot going on in translating the APS-C sensor's output to two devices of much lower quality of reproduction and very different methods of re-creating the image. I think Fujifilm did a good job with the X-T2.

Edited by bhu
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Menu>Setup>Screen Setup>Preview Pic. Effect = OFF.

 

Fuji's obsession with their film simulation has them now setting the EC+VF to display Provia simulation as the default standard. Turn it off and your viewfinder should display normal colours again.

 

hello,

this is my first post on these forums so excuse any noobness =)

Also, I'm still waiting my XT2 so I don't have anything to contribute, however, I do have a question.

Would you be able to turn off the simulation for the EVF, but leave it on for the LCD?

Thanks!!!

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Hello ,

 more than color inaccuracy on the EVF I have noticed Brightness inaccuracy. I have played around it with different values and I still haven´t found  the correct one.  -1, -2. even -3 on the outside and with bright daylight.

In the interiors... looks like Auto is not doing bad but still not Auto nor Manual are as good as they are on XT1.

That´s my personal experience. 

What do you think about it??

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  • 11 months later...

Hi

 

I have found the LCD on my X-T2 to be much warmer than on the EVF or the LCD on my X-T1. Is this a malfunction? Should I inform Fuji?

My black and white images look sepia!

 

Comparison photo X-T2 left, X-T1 right:

post-296-0-27297200-1507404842_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Dan M
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Menu>Setup>Screen Setup>Preview Pic. Effect = OFF.

 

Fuji's obsession with their film simulation has them now setting the EC+VF to display Provia simulation as the default standard. Turn it off and your viewfinder should display normal colours again.

 

Oh Film Simulations, there is a big difference between them. For a lot of my images I prefer Velvia, but for some, gun metal grey, Silver and similar colours I prefer Chrome.

 

I did notice this behaviour though.

 

Shooting in very bright sunlight with the EF-X8 in operation too, sometimes the auto white-blanace would be not looking right to me, because of deep shadows around cars and bright blue sky and sunlight. How I fixed that was to point the X-T2 at the pavement, a piece not in sunlight, and take a reading, then manually set that on the camera. I could have used my light meter had I not forgotten it at home.

 

The pictures http://spbch.jalbum.net/Morges-2017/index.html I am happy with and a fair number did not need any attention at all except for exporting to JPG from Pictorial.

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  • 2 years later...

It seems the Lcd tint has not been rectified in different bodies.


I really thought that Fuji would have seen the amount of complaints with the X-T2 and worked on a resolution.

Heres 2 X-T30’s I bought within a month of each other side by side.
Totally reset with latest FW and setup from the start and still an lcd yellow tint is present.

Warranty exchange needed - even after adjusting lcd color and brightness etc. The EVF and LCD are showing same issue.

Ridiculous and a complete pain in the ass.


Brought back the X-T30 today and tried 3 in store - all exhibited same issue in varying degrees of yellow tint.

How can they not calibrate the system to be neutral throughout!!!


I tried to par up two of the test units to take a pair that were exactly the same and they were all different !

I was offered a refund but opted to try more as I shop regularly at the store. They have contacted Fujifilmto order others from possibly another batch to test.

This is an an absolute joke in my opinion. Considering the cost of the cameras they have as a flagship have had issues they should have been on this issue from the get go. 

 

I have had T1, E2s and XM1 bodies and all were perfectly calibrated. 
 

 It good at all

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