Fujifilm Long Eyecup EC-XT L for X-T1 on X-T2
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Which direction is the light source coming from in the dark images? For example, if it coming from behind the subject, a common occurrence known as backlighting, put some light from the front toward the subject — you can do this with a flash unit, or by using various types of colored reflectors. Or, use long exposures with various grades and types of graduated neutral density filters to bring out the dark areas without blowing out the highlights. Or try bracketing exposures. There is a technique called ETTR, expose to the right, which will bring out shadow detail but risks blowing out the brighter sections. This may help in understanding DR settings as well as Dynamic Range Priority: https://www.jmpeltier.com/fujifilm-dynamic-range-settings/ p.s. The situation you are describing has been one photographers have struggled against since cameras and photographers have been around. -
Hi, I'm looking for some Fujifilm HDR RAF image samples from the X-T4, X-Pro3 or X100V cameras. These cameras should store 3 RAW images inside the RAF image file in HDR mode. In need it, to verify my own software, but don't find any downloadable samples on web. Can someone help? Christoph -
I would like to get your comments on the following problem of mine: Occasionally, I do get too dark JPG pictures with X-T50 - when the scene is contrasty; I think this is the very situation. This can happen when sun shines from a blue sky or the sky is cloudy but still very bright. I find these outcomes strange, as in many other (more or less similar) situations I find that the exposure is balanced. Is there any remedy for this, as I cannot completely figure out as to why this happens. Photometry is at the most common center-weight setting. What factors/settings can affect the picture's exposure in X-T50 (in the situation I describe)? For JPGs I've set the dynamic range on (DR400 with ISO500). Can that do it?? I thought it balances contrasts... Well, I can adjust the exposure on a computer but that is extra work for holiday pictures.
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Like Jerryy says you can scale you image down so that it can be uploaded - that way we aren't guessing. The only symbol that looks like a camera is the Continuous Mode symbol - but it normally has "L" or "H" next to it rather than a "1"
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