After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear.
The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort.
Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2.
Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.
I noticed today that the latch which is turned to open the battery chamber on my xh1 battery grip does not snap shut, but dangles freely. Is this by design, or a flaw on my grip? Am I missing something to lock it down? It doesn't cause any issues for me, just slightly annoying. Thanks for any responses!
I have been shooting various sport events since 2003 until 2014 on Canon. Then quit action photography and switched to Fuji for more calm photography. Switching was one of the best decisions I've made! That quality of color and sharpness - it still surprises and makes me happy every day!
I've been asked to shoot some motorcycle races this season, so googling daily what are the best techniques for Fuji X-T2 because they dramatically differ from Canon. I would like to get some suggestions from You. So here are a couple of questions:
1. Motorcycle straight on at high speed - which AF Mode - Single point, Zone or Wide/Tracking is more reliable? What size of Single point or Zone? Best custom setting for it?
2. Panning - same or different AF Mode is best? Best custom setting?
If it's important what gear I plan to use - it is X-T2 + Battery Grip, 55-200mm, 90mm f/2, 35mm f/2, Samyang 12mm f/2 and 8mm Fisheye.
Thank You all in advance!
When shooting fine RAW with simulation set to b/w options the RAW file is in full colour.
I want to be able to convert a RAW b/w image via Adobe Raw without converting from colour to greyscale first.
Am I missing something here? Am I stuck with just the jpeg in say Acros?
So, I used the XH-1 to shoot a short film last year and it felt just right for a low budget film, that is shot in natural light, little time and only a tripod for stabilization. Really was drawn to the ETERNA, film simulation that was said to be ideal for shooting movies. I found the low contrast it provided - allowed more flexibility in post, i color corrected in Premiere which has its own library of film stocks to apply. But, I will enjoyed the look it provided - especially given it's a DSLR and not a camcorder. With that, you still face the highlights being blown out when you are shooting alongside a window. But, that can be sort of fixed in post. In summation, I'd say this could be a long term example of what can work on low budget projects.
p.s. really liked the lens as well - it allowed me to of course maintain focus on my actors even when I was in really tight/close settings.
any thoughts or comments, please let me know - i am very open to feedback