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So I just got the 50s and have some old minolta and contax lenses which I’ve bought adapters for, and getting the mitakon 65.

 

I’ve never used manual lenses with no electronic contacts before. I managed to take a picture with a contax lens after 5 minutes of putzing around the settings and figuring out you have to turn shoot without lens on. Have a couple of questions.

- Do I have to register the lens that I’m using?

- Does something like aperture priority work? Or am I shooting full manual for exposure as well.

- any other tips for getting a good experience with these manual lenses? I’m assuming using magnification in evf is best and to not trust peaking too much, especially for portraits.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Edited by redhubcap
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On 10/17/2023 at 9:08 PM, redhubcap said:

- Do I have to register the lens that I’m using?

- Does something like aperture priority work? Or am I shooting full manual for exposure as well.

1.) No, no you do not. But, there is a menu option whereby you can enter a focal length for several manual lenses. This length (when a manual lens is on the body) is entered into the EXIF data. Note: You need to switch between the manual fl settings for the various manual lenses, the camera does not know which manual lens is attached.

2.) That would be a neat trick to have, but alas, no. Aperture Priority needs the camera to control the shutter speed, etc., while knowing the f-stop, but without any electrical contacts on the lens, …

Focus peaking works well enough as do the other manual focus assists the camera provides. This is because the assists use the image that hits the sensor, things such as good lighting, etc. are determining factors.

This may help: https://blog.roycruz.com/using-manual-lenses-with-the-fuji-x-system/

p.s. Welcome to the forum.

edit: Dang typos!

Edit for 2.): As @thelostkiwi mentions, if you are fortunate enough to have a lens with an aperture ring, you can get Aperture Priority to work. Depending on the body you may need to set the Mode Selector switch to 'Auto' (this the switch under the shutter speed switch) and set the shutter speed to 'A'.

Edited by jerryy
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Thank you! This is really helpful. Especially the blog post.

 

One more question: If I'm adapting FF lenses, to get the field of view FF equivalent mounted on GFX, I have to multiply the FF focal length by .79 correct? So if I'm adapting a 50mm Mitakon, that would be a field of view of 39.5mm on the GFX.

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These may help: https://www.thephoblographer.com/2016/09/27/what-to-expect-from-the-fujifilm-gf-lenses-with-their-full-frame-equivalent/#:~:text=What you get when you do this is,f%2F2.2 GF 63mm f%2F2.8 %2F%2F FF 50mm f%2F2.2

https://shuttermuse.com/fujifilm-gfx-crop-factor-and-gf-lens-35mm-full-frame-equivalent-focal-lengths/#:~:text=Most people are used to seeing lens focal,to a 50mm lens on the GFX system.

I believe the 0.79 factor is for going from GFX format to FF format, I am not certain whether you use 0.79 or 1.6 for adapting FF to GFX.

But try not to get too hung up on that. After a while, it will be just like using any other format; put a lens on the body, turn the camera on and look through the viewfinder, if you need a different field of view, change to a different lens😁.

edit: p.s. Please let us know what kind of results you get, I am curious whether or not you get a “bright” center image circle vignetting out to a black rectangle.

Edited by jerryy
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  • 8 months later...

One point to note. If you have a camera with IBIS and you don't set the lens length through the menus it can play havoc with image stabilisation and make it difficult to hold the subject steady. Especially noticeable if the camera is told it's a telephoto but you actually have a wide fitted. 

You can use A mode too. Set the aperture on the lens and the camera will compensate with the shutter speed /iso.

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  • 2 months later...

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