Jump to content

Samyang/Rokinon 85mm ƒ1.4


CRAusmus

Recommended Posts

I'm really wanting a fast prime in the 135mm range.  Greatly considering this lens.

 

As much as I'd love the 90 over this, the funds just aren't there right now and probably won't be until Fuji has another promotion, I can find an excellent deal on a good used one or I get a nice bonus at work.

 

Any thoughts on the 85 by Samyang or Rokinon?

 

Are there really no differences between the two companies?  The lenses' stats look identical and everything I can find online says they are both the same lenses just rebranded.  So why the different names?  Is Rokinon rebranding Samyang or the other way around?

 

Any opinions, samples, thoughts, criticisms etc. are very welcome.

 

 

Thank you...

Edited by CRAusmus
Link to post
Share on other sites

The manufacturer is Samyang Optics Company Limited, founded 1972 in South Korea. All lenses are produced in the same factory in Masan. The other brands are just importers (Rokinon for North America, Walimex for Europe...) or trademarks.

 

I can't tell you much about the lens itself, but I can give you two quotes:

 

I have the Samyang 85mm 1.4.

 

It is a decent quality lens specially for it's price. It's obviously made for portrait and it works good IF you like the soft look. This is not an ultra sharp lens. But for specifically getting soft results, it is quite good. I don't regret buying it, cause i know there are situations i really like to use it, but to be honest it's use is quite limited. Now that the 90mm F2 fuji lens is out, i would not buy it, cause i get the soft results in post production if i really want to, and i'd have the sharpness that the samyang 85 simply can't get.

 

.Most of you will be proud, this is my first post.

 

I have Rokinon 85mm T1.5 CINE (EOS Mount) which you listed it as Samyang 85mm f/1.4 VCSC.

I owned it for nearly 10 months. I use it with EOS-FX ZY Optics Lens Turbo II (Focal Reducer). The lens really sharp wide open but critical to nail the focus because the DOF is very shallow... you will end up with small focus area where it's sharp, this why most people claimed its soft. If you stop it down to f/2.4 and up, it starts to get sharper all the way up to f/11 Bokeh performance doesn't have the characters of the classic vintage lenses. I owned many vintage lenses that needs to be mention. If you decide to get the lens, you might not be happy with bokeh but mostly happy with sharpness and how it handles CA very extremely well. My work speaks for itself, check out the samples here!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks quincy.  I've been wondering about it.  Read some reviews on B&H, but most were just about how well it performed for the price, and the two examples customers included did appear sharp enough for what I'm looking for.

 

I'm wondering though if I might just be better served to get a vintage lens and a mount adapter.  Might even wind up cheaper in the long run.  I'll play around with my M42 lenses and the converter I do have and see what I think about that option as well.

 

I'm still shopping around at this point, which why I posted this so I can start some feedback from sources I trust.

 

Thanks again for clearing up my confusion on the Samyang/Rokinon situation...

Edited by CRAusmus
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Just wanted to chime in.

Rokinon 85/1.4 is an excellent lens for the price.

It's sharp with good colors and a pleasant bokeh, but it's HUGE.

For that reason, I find I use much smaller and cheaper vintage lenses like a Takumar 105/2.8 or Olympus OM 135/3.5 when I'm outside even though the Rokinon is faster and it's IQ a whole lot better.

If I'm shooting inside without much moving about, it's the Rokinon every time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Has anyone successfully used pocket wizards with an XT5? I cannot get it to fire.  Do Fujis and pocket wizards get along? Thanks in advance for your wisdom on this, kind readers!
    • Grzegorz, Go to the Networking Setting in your camera menu (the last one at the bottom - unless you have a My Menu then that is the last one). There, go to Network Setting and choose the SSID (name) of your WiFi network, type in the password, choose "SET". If you have a functioning DHCP server on your network, the camera should get its IP address (and Subnet_Mask and Gateway). If not, you can enter these manually. It is a little tricky, there will be some zeros already here, move the cursor after the zero and use DEL to delete it and make space in the input fields for your own correct values. If you do not know what to enter, have a look at values in the network settings of your computer and use the same except for the IP address, try some fairly higher number, hopefully you hit an unused one. Usually the values would be something like IP: 192.168.1.188, Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0, Gateway IP: 192.168.1.1  or something like that, take clues from your computer. The camera and computer must be on the same network. Then in Connection Mode on the camera, choose Wireless Tethering Fixed. And half-press the shutter to exit the menu and get in shooting mode. The red LED should be blinking. If you can look at your network devices, e.g. on your router, you should see the camera there. You can see check the camera settings in the camera menu in the INFORMATION item of the Network Setting menu to see the MAC address of your camera and look for it in the list of devices on your network.  Then use the tethering in your software, e.g. in Capture One. The camera may not show immediately, take a shot and then it should show in the list of available cameras. Good luck. Report back how did you fare.  PS If you have a Windows machine, you need to have Bonjour installed and running. Macs have it.
    • Hey all, I just got my first camera. The X-T30 II. It seems the Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display view-mode is doing the exact same thing as just the Eye Sensor view-mode setting. Any ideas why this is or what's supposed to be happening? Firmware Version: 2.04
    • What GordW said. You have to put the drive mode dial to "S" - Single Frame. If you have it on CL, CH, BKT or Panorama (or HDR), the Multiple Exposure option will be greyed out in the shootng menu. On my X-T5 it works in RAW + JPG and also in JPG only. When Multiple Exposure is switched on, the image quality cannot be set to RAW only. If it was set to RAW only before switching Multiple Exposure On, image quality defaults to RAW+Fine. The result is JPG. After each shot press MENU/OK and after the last one press DISP/BACK.  
    • Springtime is coming to the Norwegian fjords.  X-E4 with XC 15-45

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...