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Fuji and strobes (open thread)

Lino

By Lino
in Flash Photography with Fuji X

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Lino Apprentice

Lino

Posted
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Hi,
I'm creating this open thread to everyone who'd like to share pictures showing some strobe usage on their x-system.

Here's my first contribution, with a sample from a  editorial photography photoshoot for a sponsored bodybuilder who participated on FIBO 2015, in Germany.
Simple setup, with 2x YN560III triggered from a YN560TX mounted on my X100S (yes, the 100S can also be helpful in situations like these, with the "leaf shutter" technology - and yes, it's a great camera for all pruposes, not necessarily directed for street photography).
I used a high shutter speed to kill as much as i can the ambient light and also to give to the model some structure with very hard transitions between shadows and lit areas.
The main light was fired from a 80cm silver umbrella (slightly folded) to ensure the light beam was slightly narrow and perfectly diffused, and the second light was placed in the top of the stairs, not only for composition, but also to give some rim light on him.

Share your pictures, discuss techniques and gear and happy shootings

 

LDpMgf.pngX100S | ISO200 | 23mm | f5.6 | 1/1000

 
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U-RI-BO Apprentice

U-RI-BO

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My pic is more simple :)

 

A Nissin i40 in TTL Mode on my X-Pro1 ... Bounced to the wall left and a little bit forward, by using a little black foamy thing to keep away all direkt light from my model.

 

 

 

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U-RI-BO Apprentice

U-RI-BO

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Here is another example.

Fuji X-Pro1 & 18-55mm in the right hand ... EF-X20 with a Canon Cord OC-E3 attached in my left hand.

 

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  • 8 months later...
Jim Erickson Newbie

Jim Erickson

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Yesterday I was trying to test out my new Paul C Bluff Einsteins monolights. They work great but I may have identified a camera issue. I'm shooting with Fuji X-Pro2. What I wanted to do was layer multiple pops on a single exposure so that I could raise the Fstop for a lower ISO exposure. If I understand correctly every 2 pops raises exposure by 1 fstop. You do lose a little so for every 4 pops you need to add 1, therefore if I wanted to raise fstop by 2 stops, it would take 5 pops to do so. This is a technique I used with film years ago. Anyway I went as far as adding 15 pops on one 30 sec exposure and could not tell any difference between a 1 pop exposure and a 15 pop exposure. My expectation was by adding 15 pops I should have blown the image completely out but instead I saw no difference. It was like after one pop the sensor shut down and didn't add anymore. Is this something unique about either digital or Fuji specifically? I've searched the internet and can't seem to find the answer. Hopefully someone in here knows the answer. By the way I tried every different Flash mode available. I even tried shooting without anything in the camera communicating with any flash equipment by shooting in Blub for 30 sec and triggering the lights manually, trying to build up exposure. Hopefully someone here knows the answer. Thanks.

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kim Enthusiast

kim

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That would be the reflection of the food [ & me+camera ] in the silver counter back. I had to shoot these in a tiny working kitchen, not ideal but that's how it goes sometimes. The counter was only about 30cm wide made of marble.

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darknj Experienced

darknj

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That would be the reflection of the food [ & me+camera ] in the silver counter back. I had to shoot these in a tiny working kitchen, not ideal but that's how it goes sometimes. The counter was only about 30cm wide made of marble.

 

That's a much better picture than the previous one where the color banding was very visible :D

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  • 4 months later...
johanneskropf Rookie

johanneskropf

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Single Yongnuo 560IV in a Softbox and a small reflector, shoot on xt2 with the 56 1.2 at f4, also used an Rodenstock vario nd

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Jlrimages Rookie

Jlrimages

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Yesterday I was trying to test out my new Paul C Bluff Einsteins monolights. They work great but I may have identified a camera issue. I'm shooting with Fuji X-Pro2. What I wanted to do was layer multiple pops on a single exposure so that I could raise the Fstop for a lower ISO exposure. If I understand correctly every 2 pops raises exposure by 1 fstop. You do lose a little so for every 4 pops you need to add 1, therefore if I wanted to raise fstop by 2 stops, it would take 5 pops to do so. This is a technique I used with film years ago. Anyway I went as far as adding 15 pops on one 30 sec exposure and could not tell any difference between a 1 pop exposure and a 15 pop exposure. My expectation was by adding 15 pops I should have blown the image completely out but instead I saw no difference. It was like after one pop the sensor shut down and didn't add anymore. Is this something unique about either digital or Fuji specifically? I've searched the internet and can't seem to find the answer. Hopefully someone in here knows the answer. By the way I tried every different Flash mode available. I even tried shooting without anything in the camera communicating with any flash equipment by shooting in Blub for 30 sec and triggering the lights manually, trying to build up exposure. Hopefully someone here knows the answer. Thanks.

What power setting did you have the Einstein set to? And how did you trigger multiple flashes in the same exposure before you set the camera to bulb? Unlike some speed lights, studio strobes usually don't have a stroboscopic function to generate multiple firings in one exposure. (Some new Elinchrom strobes have this function now, but normally it is used to capture subject movement, not build up exposure - I don't believe the Einsteins have that function.) I shoot with studio strobes often, and I can't imagine a situation where I'd need to add multiple flashes from a strobe of the Einstein's power in order to get a proper exposure at 100 ISO.

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idbugs Apprentice

idbugs

Posted
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I am a beginner in off camera flash photography...I have a home studio...using flash....Strobie Pro Flash 360 as my key light and Fuji EF-X500...the Strobie will flash in manual when I use the Pocket Wizard on my X-T2...however Fuji EF-500 doesn't....I am deciding if I need an attachment to the Fuji Flash Hot Shoe and then use a Pocket Wizard with Fuji Flash set to Manual Mode or purchase a Cactus Receiver/Trigger (or Yongnuo)...Any Advice will be helpful...

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Jlrimages Rookie

Jlrimages

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I am a beginner in off camera flash photography...I have a home studio...using flash....Strobie Pro Flash 360 as my key light and Fuji EF-X500...the Strobie will flash in manual when I use the Pocket Wizard on my X-T2...however Fuji EF-500 doesn't....I am deciding if I need an attachment to the Fuji Flash Hot Shoe and then use a Pocket Wizard with Fuji Flash set to Manual Mode or purchase a Cactus Receiver/Trigger (or Yongnuo)...Any Advice will be helpful...

Does the Fuji flash have an optical slave? Some, though not all, flashes do. If it does, you can set its power level as you would in manual mode and the slave will fire the flash.

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Henry0125 Newbie

Henry0125

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I got 3 YN560IV and a YN560TX(a remote trigger with LCD screen for multi-flash). It works fine with my Fuji bodies in studio. This picture is taken by my X-Pro2 last week.

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