Jump to content

IBIS + OIS X-H2s and 50-140 f/2.8


Recommended Posts

Hi, I have x-h2s and 50-140 f/2.8 and lot of photos are shaked when I panning. For example I take a static shot on 140mm 1/60 and everything is sharp, but when I start panning for example with 1/125s I have a lot of photos skahed in axis which I panninng.  I maintain stable position and avoid unnessery shakes. I start thinking if it's ois+ibis fault becasue when i had sony camera  A77+70-300G which had only ibis i had only few photos shaked. So if i trun of ois on lens, ibis still will be working or completly shut off?

Edited by intercontinental
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • intercontinental changed the title to IBIS + OIS X-H2s and 50-140 f/2.8

To answer your question, if you are using a Fujifilm lens with OIS, turning off the OIS switch on the lens will also turn off IBIS. If you are using a lens without OIS, you will be able to turn IBIS on and off in the menu: Shooting Setting > IS Mode.

What you are describing sounds odd though, are you trying to take a shot while panning or are you moving the camera and then waiting a bit for things to settle down and then taking the shot?

Nowadays some folks claim that you do not need to turn off the image stabilizers when you are using tripods, even going so far as to say that if the tripod is low grade, then it will still transmit small vibrations which you can avoid by having IBIS / OIS turned on. Yet others say it is still best to turn the is stuff off while using tripods.

p.s. welcome to the forum.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm tracking airplanes, taking photos during paning . I use AF-C, ES and 15 or 20FPS, subject tracking off, center point or center zone.

In static shots OIS is very efficent because I can take sharp photos on 140mm and 1/10s but with paning maybe the best option is to keep up shutter times 2xfocal lenght. Today i took a series of photos on the times close to focal lenght. Many of those was shaked only in small areas. For example plane was sharp but nose or winglet or end of tail was slightly shaked. Maybe i have to use 30 or 40 fps?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, okay, you are panning while hand-holding and not while using a panning tripod.

You mention you are using the electronic shutter. That may cause you a bit of trouble:

https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-h2s/menu_shooting/shooting_setting/

scroll down to the Shutter Type section for the notes on shooting moving subjects.

I have heard that increasing the fps does make the focusing sensor work better, because it takes more samples, but I do not know for certain one way or the other.

Just to cover all bases, have you considered using a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number)? Even with zone focusing, too small of a f-stop number will still blur things outside the immediate focus area, which can be tricky to center on a moving object.

Using the idea of shutter speeds twice the focal length should still work, that is what folks did before IS, OIS and IBIS came along.😀

Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, jerryy said:

Ah, okay, you are panning while hand-holding and not while using a panning tripod.

You mention you are using the electronic shutter. That may cause you a bit of trouble:

https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-h2s/menu_shooting/shooting_setting/

I know about this issue but i start using ES becasue I thought that X-H2S is designed specially for shooting moving objects as it has sensor with the fastes readout on a market and drive modes 30fps and 40fps avalible only in ES. And in ES you doesn't have blackout, freezing or low frame rate in evf during  continous shooting.

But i'll try do few test to chceck 30 and 40 fps and also MS, becase to date I used only 15 and 20fps.

Me friend who shoot also airplanes with Canon R5 use ES and had problems but related to the IS which was fixed by updating lens firmware. That's why i strated suspecting that may OIS can do bad job during handheld paning.

I'm guessing what for example do the subject tracking. I found that after turn it on, you can't change metering mode, can't change limiter in camera, and maybe there are more settings blocked, maybe it changes how OIS work during paning?

Edited by intercontinental
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it could be some oddity from the electronic shutter, or image stabilizers, I have read from several sports photographers that turn off IS, etc. regardless of which manufacturer makes the camera. Or it could be as simple as needing more DOF.

You could try turning on subject tracking and head over to the airport and methodically test that as well as the several other things that were mentioned.

But without any images to see the issues, we are pretty much flailing around, stumbling in the dark -so to speak- if something works it would be a one off bit of luck rather than a deliberate understood fix for the problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found setting IS MODE BOOST in MOVIE SETTING menu and i'm curious is it takes effect also in still photos?

 

Choose the image stabilization level.

Option Description
[ON] Suitable for hand-held shooting with no panning.
[OFF] Suitable for hand-held shooting with panning.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • HI Rufo, I have changed procedures.  I now use the colors space transform (CST) as my first node.  The CST is set up as follows: - Apply the CST effect to the first node. - Color Space is Rec 2020 - Input gamma is FLog - Output color space is Rec 709 - Output gamma is Gamma 2.4 All other nodes to grade the clip proceed the node that contains the color space transform. Hope this helps. Don
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      Ohio River, Kentucky - Indiana, USA Ohio River, indiana - Kentucky, USA
    • Interesting, and a bit subtle. I also think it'd be better to activate on a half press. But there seems to be good reasoning behind a number of other choices, so I wonder if there's a good reason behind this one and we're just not seeing it. To some degree IS goes on and off like AF does, but this is an exception, isn't it?
    • I couldn't find my manual so downloaded a PDF copy and did some searching.  From p146 of the manual, regarding Shooting Only stabilisation: "Image stabilization enabled only when the shutter button is pressed halfway (focus mode C) or the shutter is released." So it appears that the camera is 'working as intended' and that in AF-S the stabilisation mechanism kicks in only as you release the shutter. I think I would prefer it to activate on a half press, like it does in AF-C.
    • Sometime a short break can help to phrase things so that they do not sound annoying, Well that is the hope anyway, so here goes. Having that meter would be nice as well as having the histogram. But having them or not is a minor consideration in terms of what you are wanting to do because the app does not work with intervalometers. The only way you can get a time lapse sequence using the app is to manually click the shutter button, wait then click it again and so on. Even if the meter were there, you would need extremely fast reflexes to see and react to a lighting change by changing the settings and then going back to clicking the shutter button. Doing that for hours would be a feat indeed. The equipment you mention does this by analyzing several past images and predicting what settings to apply to the next incoming image. Right now the app has the live view which will tell you if an area is over or under exposed, but as far as what you are wanting to do without being able to connect the app to an intervalometer, well …
×
×
  • Create New...