Jump to content

Recommended Posts

sure... but one needs to persevere :), this wasn’t a shot done on the fly...

 

The only way to realistically have a go at taking a shot like that, is to create the conditions for which you know exactly where the kingfisher will dive, ...by placing bait fish.

 

If you think that you see the fish perched on a tree and that you follow it in its dive getting this shot, you will be making many unsuccessful attempts before you get to the conclusion that you need to increase your chances.

 

 

 

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2158633/Like-shooting-fish-barrel-How-photographer-coaxed-kingfisher-divebomb-food-like-missile-going-kill.html

 

 

"Mr Petersburger from Hungary said he took the images during the nesting period and used bait to attract fish to a particular area of the stream." 

 

 

or....

 

 

http://www.nigelforrow.co.uk/close-up-kingfisher-with-fish

 

. "Kingfishers are attracted to a suspended tank containing fish bait. A variety of interchangeable perches could be placed at different angles around the tank."

 

Although not everyone agrees to the practice

 

http://www.markdumbleton.com/blog/baiting-in-wildlife-photography/

Link to post
Share on other sites

if you are afraid of breaking your mechanical shutter, switch over to the electronic one, but do keep in mind the rolling shutter effect.

 

But then again, with animals that moves that quick, you better NOT use a mirrorless camera, even the best of them would have serious issues at following the flight path of small birds.

Link to post
Share on other sites

sure... but one needs to persevere :), this wasn’t a shot done on the fly...

 

The only way to realistically have a go at taking a shot like that, is to create the conditions for which you know exactly where the kingfisher will dive, ...by placing bait fish.

 

If you think that you see the fish perched on a tree and that you follow it in its dive getting this shot, you will be making many unsuccessful attempts before you get to the conclusion that you need to increase your chances.

 

 

 

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2158633/Like-shooting-fish-barrel-How-photographer-coaxed-kingfisher-divebomb-food-like-missile-going-kill.html

 

 

"Mr Petersburger from Hungary said he took the images during the nesting period and used bait to attract fish to a particular area of the stream." 

 

 

or....

 

 

http://www.nigelforrow.co.uk/close-up-kingfisher-with-fish

 

. "Kingfishers are attracted to a suspended tank containing fish bait. A variety of interchangeable perches could be placed at different angles around the tank."

 

Although not everyone agrees to the practice

 

http://www.markdumbleton.com/blog/baiting-in-wildlife-photography/

 

Yah, baiting.....still a debate until today.

Link to post
Share on other sites

if you are afraid of breaking your mechanical shutter, switch over to the electronic one, but do keep in mind the rolling shutter effect.

 

But then again, with animals that moves that quick, you better NOT use a mirrorless camera, even the best of them would have serious issues at following the flight path of small birds.

 

Hahaha.....that would be a new found "advantage" of an electronic shutter!

 

I noticed the Nikon. 800E?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hahaha.....that would be a new found "advantage" of an electronic shutter!

 

I noticed the Nikon. 800E?

 

Well, since the ES only do a scan of the liveview to capture the image, it certainly will not break the mechanical shutter.

 

As for the D800E camera, it's mostly a D800 with no AA or low pass filter. So a bit higher IQ but the expense of possible moirée issue when filming.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you look carefully at the images, you'll notice that they were lit, so you can't use the electronic shutter. While, I suppose it's possible to use the electronic shutter without lighting the image, I wouldn't want to waste capturing the bird at the perfect moment, only to find out that the natural light is insufficient.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you look carefully at the images, you'll notice that they were lit, so you can't use the electronic shutter. While, I suppose it's possible to use the electronic shutter without lighting the image, I wouldn't want to waste capturing the bird at the perfect moment, only to find out that the natural light is insufficient.

 

The X-Trans sensor is one of the best ISOless sensor on the market. Technically, there are close of no noise differences if you take a picture at ISO 200 and bump it by 4 stops in LR or take it directly at ISO 3200. If the lightning is adjusted correctly, the end result will be the same.

 

But for these kind of photography, you would have wasted half a dozen of mirrorless cameras, easily. Birding, is still something done, much more easier with a DSLR rather than with a mirrorless camera.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The X-Trans sensor is one of the best ISOless sensor on the market. Technically, there are close of no noise differences if you take a picture at ISO 200 and bump it by 4 stops in LR or take it directly at ISO 3200. If the lightning is adjusted correctly, the end result will be the same.

 

But for these kind of photography, you would have wasted half a dozen of mirrorless cameras, easily. Birding, is still something done, much more easier with a DSLR rather than with a mirrorless camera.

It's not just the amount of light, but also the direction of the light that's important. The Daily Mail article linked to above indicates that the photographer had four flashes set up. The kingfisher that was caught just as he entered the water clearly is backlit as well as lit from the front. If you have that kind of set up to light the image, you aren't going to be tracking the subject. You are going to prefocus on the spot you expect the subject to come in to. The key is to anticipate when to fire the shutter.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • Anyone out there have any experience/feedback on the Laowa 55 mm tilt shift? I’d be using it on the GFX 50s ii. 
    • Hi, I'm researching a gimbal to get someone as a present & they use a Fuji XS-10. I did a quick search of previous threads on gimbals but all of them seem to either get no replies or spammed by a link to an Amazon list. I'd appreciate any comments from folks who've actually used specific gimbals with the XS-10. I'm aware that some, such as certain models from Zhiyun, DJI & FeiyuTech either don't say that they are fully compatible with the XS-10 but other sites say they do work ok but some functions don't. It's quite difficult to work out which functions work & which don't. Thanks.
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • This was snapped during a lunch.  Total shooting time—a few seconds. We so often read that a proper "portrait" should be snapped with a longer than normal lens, a low ISO to get lots of detail, and have a soft light held up above the head, and slightly to the side. The key, in my opinion, is always carry a camera.  Have your camera available to capture candid, authentic photographs.  Available light, no posing.   This portrait used 2000 ISO, the lens wide open at f4, and 1/100 sec. to stop any movement.  I didn't even take time to compose—I just snapped.  I leave the "Face Detection" on unless I'm photographing a landscape or subject other than a person. The GFX100RF has the equivalent of a 28mm lens.  The large sensor renders fine detail even at fairly high ISO ratings.  And the drawing of the lens is just perfect in my opinion.  It was set to B & W, with slightly reduced sharpness and clarity (set in-camera).  Ideal for "portraits."  Now, for some subjects I will likely increase the sharpness and clarity to the normal setting.  The camera is new, and I'm still experimenting with it.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...