Jump to content

How do you deal with the parallax error when shooting with the OVF?


Recommended Posts

Are you not gonna regrett it when the X-T2 comes out?

 

 

I needed 2 bodies and wanted the X-Pro2 more than a second X-T1. I'm glad I made the choice I did.

 

When the X-T2 comes out, I will sell the X-T1, get an X-T2 and still have 2 bodies. I'm also exploring the use of the OVF and deciding if it adds something I value. I've never used a rangefinder before so it is something new and interesting to explore. It is too early to offer my experience with the OVF. In a few months I may have a conclusion.

 

Worst happens I also sell the X-Pro2 and get 2 X-T2's... 

 

I find switching between the X-T1 and X-Pro2 not as smooth as I would like. The controls are bit too different

Link to post
Share on other sites

Was there no option to wait a few months?

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

Not for me... I was spending too much time switching lenses... particularly because I have been enjoying shooting the Fuji primes so much. I needed a second body. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are two modes. In one just the focus point moves, while in the other the whole frame and point move.

 

Could you explain how to switch on the mode where the whole frame moves too? I've looked in the manual and menus to no avail and I really need to turn this on or the OVF is kinda useless to me...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not for me... I was spending too much time switching lenses... particularly because I have been enjoying shooting the Fuji primes so much. I needed a second body.

I would have gone for a X-E2, as a stopgap then, in your case. While waiting for the X-T2 to come out.

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to get a used Xpro1. Should have it before Friday. 

I figure I'll sell it in Sept/Oct orso when I expect the X-T2 to be out. I might sell it for 100 bucks less orso but it will be worth it since I don't have a camera at all now (sold my canon gear 2 months ago).

 

If I enjoy the OVF a lot, I will get the XPRO2 instead. Will be interesting to see. But I think the bigger EVF and the flipscreen will be more suited for me.

 

Is 3.50 the latest firmware on the XPRO1 and the only firmware I need to update to?

Edited by Hermelin
Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to get a used Xpro1. Should have it before Friday. 

I figure I'll sell it in Sept/Oct orso when I expect the X-T2 to be out. I might sell it for 100 bucks less orso but it will be worth it since I don't have a camera at all now (sold my canon gear 2 months ago).

 

If I enjoy the OVF a lot, I will get the XPRO2 instead. Will be interesting to see. But I think the bigger EVF and the flipscreen will be more suited for me.

 

Is 3.50 the latest firmware on the XPRO1 and the only firmware I need to update to?

 

I think you'll enjoy it.  Just learn to use the tools Fuji gives you and you'll be successful using the OVF.

 

Learning how to read the histogram and using it in conjunction with the EV meter (when in full manual) will help you nail your exposure...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you'll enjoy it.  Just learn to use the tools Fuji gives you and you'll be successful using the OVF.

 

Learning how to read the histogram and using it in conjunction with the EV meter (when in full manual) will help you nail your exposure...

Thanks! Never had problems in the past with my canon to get the exposure right without reading the histogram so Im not too worried :)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Hermelin,

 

Don't know if anyone's mentioned this as I've not read every post here, but the OVF has an optional  miniature live view display showing  in the bottom right corner.  Not only does this show exactly what the EVF would, but it can be altered to display only the precise area of focus of the OVF, rather than the whole scene. This isn't intrusive, as it sits where the view would be obscured by the lens anyway.  And, as I said, if you find it distracting you can switch it off.

 

And there's more:  this mini EVF is responsive to exposure compensation changes, just like the LCD or main EVF would be.  So it's a neat alternative to using the histogram as you can see how bright or dark the scene is with your chosen exposure settings.

 

Another benefit is using it really saves on battery use.

 

I love the OVF, primarily for street photography.  It's very useful when your waiting for someone to come into the scene.  Being able to see them in the viewfinder whilst they're still outside the framing lines helps you click at the right moment. It also gives the impression that you're actually interested in something else besides your target subject whilst they walk into the frame lines.  And in setting like that the subjects are rarely so close that super precise framing is required.  But I would agree that there's really no functional point in going the X Pro route if you don't want or like the OVF.   Yes, it's specs are better than any other Fuji, but only for now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Hermelin,

 

Don't know if anyone's mentioned this as I've not read every post here, but the OVF has an optional  miniature live view display showing  in the bottom right corner.  Not only does this show exactly what the EVF would, but it can be altered to display only the precise area of focus of the OVF, rather than the whole scene. This isn't intrusive, as it sits where the view would be obscured by the lens anyway.  And, as I said, if you find it distracting you can switch it off.

 

And there's more:  this mini EVF is responsive to exposure compensation changes, just like the LCD or main EVF would be.  So it's a neat alternative to using the histogram as you can see how bright or dark the scene is with your chosen exposure settings.

 

Another benefit is using it really saves on battery use.

 

I love the OVF, primarily for street photography.  It's very useful when your waiting for someone to come into the scene.  Being able to see them in the viewfinder whilst they're still outside the framing lines helps you click at the right moment. It also gives the impression that you're actually interested in something else besides your target subject whilst they walk into the frame lines.  And in setting like that the subjects are rarely so close that super precise framing is required.  But I would agree that there's really no functional point in going the X Pro route if you don't want or like the OVF.   Yes, it's specs are better than any other Fuji, but only for now.

I heard that this mini evf slows down the af speed though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was looking through my "Mastering the X-Pro1" book again last night and realized something that I hadn't realized before...

 

When you turn on "Corrected AF Frame", you have two AF Frames inside your OVF, one solid and one with dashed lines.  The dashed lines gives you a focus area for objects at about 32 inches.  Playing with it last night, really helped me in focusing on objects at closer distances.  I've always had this on, but just goes to show that really reading through these manuals and books helps you to fully understand your camera and how to use it to the best of it's ability.

 

I'm just gonna read the whole book again I think, as flipping through, there are several other things I want to re-explore with my Pro1.

Edited by CRAusmus
Link to post
Share on other sites

I was looking through my "Mastering the X-Pro1" book again last night and realized something that I hadn't realized before...

 

When you turn on "Corrected AF Frame", you have two AF Frames inside your OVF, one solid and one with dashed lines.  The dashed lines gives you a focus area for objects at about 32 inches.  Playing with it last night, really helped me in focusing on objects at closer distances.  I've always had this on, but just goes to show that really reading through these manuals and books helps you to fully understand your camera and how to use it to the best of it's ability.

 

I'm just gonna read the whole book again I think, as flipping through, there are several other things I want to re-explore with my Pro1.

I learned about the correct af frame on this very helpful page http://vopoku.com/fujifilm-ovf-focusing/
Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally got my Xpro1 today, and been shooting just for short while. Enjoying the OVF and really prefer it to the EVF which I find ugly, small, dark and lagging.

I guess my experience would be different if I had a huge evf like the X-T1. I remember when I had the x100s 3 years ago, I only shot with the EVF for some reason.

 

Have no problem with the parallax error so far. I only got a 18mm to try it on so far, but I don't find it frustrating, I have corrected af frame on, and I find it pretty easy to anticipate where the focus point is going to move to.

 

Beautiful camera, beautiful jpegs! Test shot of my son, straight out of cam, no editing except resizing.

 

CZRjtnL.jpg

 

 

 

One stupid simple question. How do I move the af point when I shoot continues focus?

Edited by Hermelin
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just hit the AF button and use the d-pad to move it around, the command dial to change the size.  In OVF, you only have 25 positions for the AF Area, unlike in EVF/LCD, you have 49.

 

Never mind.  That's single focus.  Misunderstood the question.  You can't move it in continuous...

Edited by CRAusmus
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never found a situation where Continuous Focus works more efficiently then Single.  If I'm shooting sports or action I'm either tracking, or I've prefocused on the area and waiting on the subject to enter the frame.

 

If you intend to shoot this kind of stuff though I think the T1 is the better camera for you.  It's got multiple AF modes that aid in shooting moving objects, that I think really shine when shooting action.

 

I don't think I've ever used C-AF on the Pro1 though, so perhaps someone else can chime in with how to get the best performance out of it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is an interesting video showing C-AF actually helps in low light situations.  Your results may vary, but if it's worth checking out just to see what may be an improvement in AF when using C-AF.

 

I've tried this myself and I have admit, it does seem to work.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Another question. In OVF mode, I only want the levels, but not the histogram, is it possible to get rid of? 

 

You can configure all screens to show you only what you want to see.  So literally you could have every conceivable piece of information for you.  Your OVF could be configured only to show you the  information you want to get the shot, the LCD could be configured to show you an information screen and the EVF could be configured completely separately.  One of the beauties of the OVF actually as it gives you three screens that are customizable.

 

Shooting Menu 4, Display Custom Setting.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can configure all screens to show you only what you want to see.  So literally you could have every conceivable piece of information for you.  Your OVF could be configured only to show you the  information you want to get the shot, the LCD could be configured to show you an information screen and the EVF could be configured completely separately.  One of the beauties of the OVF actually as it gives you three screens that are customizable.

 

Shooting Menu 4, Display Custom Setting.

Thank you!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm confused about the rangefinder vs DLSR debate when it comes to Fuji cameras. With one exception, the X-Pro2 will likely be identical to the X-T2 except in form factor. That exception allows you to use a fantastic hybrid optical viewfinder on the Pro. You can always use the electronic viewfinder and have the same expereince as an X-T# camera with a viewfinder on the left instead of the center. It's the best of both worlds with no major compromises.

 

Of course, if the real deciding factor is mechanical style, then it is a matter of taste and not really up to debate.

 

PS I've owned both DSLRS (Nikon) and the X100s and X-E2. For me the X-Pro2 is by far the best camera I've ever used.

Edited by vchurch
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Does it use wi-fi when you are not specifically attempting to transfer files?
    • Hello dear Fujifolks - I come from 54 years of shooting Nikon cameras, and this is my first Fujifilm experience as I've just sold my Nikon D7200 in exchange for a tiny but endearing X-T20. Very pleased with it as it's so lightweight, but very well built. But takes some getting used to the menus and settings after Nikon's DSLR functional simplicity ! I'm working on it though and slowly coming to terms with the new system. My question for now is this: is there any way to turn OFF the wifi antenna in the camera ? I'm particularly wifi signal sensitive and have no intention of using that function as I do all my editing and printing on my PC. I've checked the wifi menu options but cannot find a simple wifi ON-OFF selector. Thanks for your help and I'll be back with more Q's when needed. Blessings to you all... 
    • Has anyone successfully used pocket wizards with an XT5? I cannot get it to fire.  Do Fujis and pocket wizards get along? Thanks in advance for your wisdom on this, kind readers!
    • Grzegorz, Go to the Networking Setting in your camera menu (the last one at the bottom - unless you have a My Menu then that is the last one). There, go to Network Setting and choose the SSID (name) of your WiFi network, type in the password, choose "SET". If you have a functioning DHCP server on your network, the camera should get its IP address (and Subnet_Mask and Gateway). If not, you can enter these manually. It is a little tricky, there will be some zeros already here, move the cursor after the zero and use DEL to delete it and make space in the input fields for your own correct values. If you do not know what to enter, have a look at values in the network settings of your computer and use the same except for the IP address, try some fairly higher number, hopefully you hit an unused one. Usually the values would be something like IP: 192.168.1.188, Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0, Gateway IP: 192.168.1.1  or something like that, take clues from your computer. The camera and computer must be on the same network. Then in Connection Mode on the camera, choose Wireless Tethering Fixed. And half-press the shutter to exit the menu and get in shooting mode. The red LED should be blinking. If you can look at your network devices, e.g. on your router, you should see the camera there. You can see check the camera settings in the camera menu in the INFORMATION item of the Network Setting menu to see the MAC address of your camera and look for it in the list of devices on your network.  Then use the tethering in your software, e.g. in Capture One. The camera may not show immediately, take a shot and then it should show in the list of available cameras. Good luck. Report back how did you fare.  PS If you have a Windows machine, you need to have Bonjour installed and running. Macs have it.
    • Hey all, I just got my first camera. The X-T30 II. It seems the Eye Sensor + LCD Image Display view-mode is doing the exact same thing as just the Eye Sensor view-mode setting. Any ideas why this is or what's supposed to be happening? Firmware Version: 2.04
×
×
  • Create New...