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Who uses UV Filters on their Fuji lens?


Lynxo

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I'm with you on this topic, milandro.
I have, to this day, not used a "clear protection filter" nor a "UV filter" on any of my lenses.

In my film days, when my front elements got dirty, I just used to clean them with a bit of water and my shirt, a towel or a handkerchief.
Now, with the Fuji stuff, I've become a bit more careful. Apart from one incident, nothing more that dust particles have settled on the lenses, which can easily be blown away with a rocket blower. But that one time, I was at the sea, and three of my lenses developed a thin salty crust speckled with sand particles. It was a horror to get that off without scratching anything, kept me busy the whole afternoon and evening. All three lenses are fine, but I'm certain that I'll use a filter the next time I'm close to salty water.

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I do not.  If i want to protect the lens I use the lens hood.  That's it.  I usually use polarizers and ND filters but even then I take them off as soon as possible.

 

The smallest filter i own is 77mm size.  All left over from my Nikon days.  I have step up rings for all my lenses.  When I do use the step up rings I cannot use a lens hood, but that's ok.  There is a filter attached -- either a polarizer or a ND.  Once the filters and step-up rings come off the lens hood snaps or screws back on.

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When I'm on safari I always use UV filters to protect my lenses in the harsh, dusty conditions. This habit goes back 40 years and I'm pleased to say that in all this time I've never had a lens scratched or damaged. 

 

I've only ever used B+W filters. What's the point of placing a cheap piece of glass in front of a high quality optic?

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When I'm on safari I always use UV filters to protect my lenses in the harsh, dusty conditions. This habit goes back 40 years and I'm pleased to say that in all this time I've never had a lens scratched or damaged. 

 

I've only ever used B+W filters. What's the point of placing a cheap piece of glass in front of a high quality optic?

Quality filters don't necessarily cost a fortune. Lenstip tested clear glass filters for flare resistance, transmission and general quality. You'd be surprised.

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Using a lens filter can give you "ghosts" or colored blobs when you shoot toward lights at night. In my case it was green blobs. It's possible there may be filters out there that eliminate this problem by using more sophisticated coatings, but these high end filters tend to be very expensive, as Larry said, they have an incredible markup. One option is to take the filter off at night if ghost lights are a problem.

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Back in film days, I had a minolta maxxum with slik tripod, I did not have the legs spread out properly and it tipped over,

sending it to its death. smashed filter front lens element, zoom, smashed in. No UV protection helped here...

 

so with my butter fingers I rather have protect filter on it. I guess also for resale, it looks more attractive

since you are only cleaning the protect filter and original lens element untouched.

 

I like this forum so far, less ego then others forums, lol. friendly helpful opinions and sharing experiences, thank you.

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Bonsoir Tout le Monde,

I originally used filters on my Pentax lenses and they saved them a few times, notably in sand, sea, and being knocked against a mountain, all in general out and about and travel use, not extreme sports.

I wanted to use filters on my Fuji lenses (uv by Hoya) but first I bought one and tested it out for potential loss of image quality. I couldn't see a difference, so I bought a second for the other lens.

 

As others have pointed out it is basically insurance for no, visible to me, loss of IQ (not Intelligence Quotient)

Have a nice Easter

Jeremy

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I'm using filters for protection since accidentally caught small scratch right in the center of Panasonic 20mm 1.7 lens.

It's also much easier to wipe out flat filter glass surface comparing to curved front lens, especially after some shooting close to the salt water or dusty places.

 

Also used filter to protect X100S for same reason as Tom H.

 

I don't mind if additional ghost/flare is added.

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I use UV/protective filters on my lenses. I know they degrade image quality but I use them because I have young children at home. It's much easier to clean the residue left by grubby fingers off of flat filters vs front elements of lenses.

 

A quick rinse under the tap with a mild soap + 2nd rinse with distilled water if I'm feeling really fastidious is a lot easier than using a blower/cleaning solution/lens pen etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been using UV filters on all my lenses for nearly 15+ years.    The amount of gunk and junk that accumulates on them is amazing (despite regular cleaning) and every year or so, i toss the filters and put on new ones.    The marginal reduction in image quality (if any) is not something that makes any difference in the real world - but then, i have never ever blown up an image to 100% either.

 

And yes, i also use a hood - but that is to prevent light and physical impact.   The lens filter is to prevent dirt, dust, etc.   When i am out in the field, the lens cap is never on.

 

Incidentally, the Canon super-teles all come with what is pretty much a build-in clear filter:  their outermost element is nothing but clear, transparent glass.

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I do not use UV filters.  But I DO use high quality clear filters usually B+W or Hoya HD2.  The HD (and HD3 presumably) are kind of weird that is dust literally falls off them and unless you have marmelade on your hands they are difficult to smudge.  I have no faith they will protect my lens from a significant impact -- rather what Use them for is to keep of dust and dirt and crud.  They are much easier to clean (unscented detergent and warm water) than the front element of a lens.  They are expensive so you have to weigh their value against the replacement cost of the lens being protected.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I enjoying lurking around bridges and damns near water activity (troll-like, yes). Often I get back sprayed with mist and end up ragging off the end of the lens over and over again.

For me, a glass filter of some kind is a must, vs. trying to reach and clean out a recessed lens face on some of my lenses. I carry a washable microfiber wash cloth in my pocket for this (detailing cloth from Wal Mart's auto accessories area). Also use it to clean off my glasses and Fuji-LCD screen if I get "nose art" on it. :ph34r:

 

I typically do not use glass in front of my lenses while indoors, because of the propensity of light jumping around within.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTOKnropLkY

 

 

 

And for general purpose impact resistance, this might convince some to considering "wearing protection".

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky1CVNq6QTU

Edited by jp_stone
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By default, I keep filter on all my lenses.  When there is an issue with flares or in extreme lighting conditions, I take it off.  My preferred filter is a B+W 007 (clear multicoated).

 

By the way, has any UV filter users here encounter a situation where Fuji's lens lettering on the front lens ring reflect onto the image?  I've read somewhere that in some instances when the conditions are met, such markings could appear on the image - I could see that happening with some lenses where the lettering is on a surface that is beveled towards the front element (like 23, both 35s and 56) where a reflection of letters could bounce on the back surface of the attached filter and end up being inside the image circle.  Maybe 56 is unaffected as it is a longer lens with narrower angle of vision.

 

Here's one example after doing a search - it's not UV but using Lee Big Stopper:

https://blog.redcentphotography.com/2014/05/15/trouble-in-paradise-the-fujifilm-14mm2-8r-and-lee-big-stopper-produced-awful-reflections/

I use Lee filters quite often so I may need to come up with a similar, but less permanent solution.  I digress but case in point: the XF 23 I've purchased recently has a built-in tilt.  No wonder some of the shots I thought I nailed looked so awful when I saw on a proper screen - I was attributing it to my inexperience with the Fuji system, and that's partly true, but upon receiving the 10-24 and having done some comparison shots. it became clear that the 23 has an issue that compounded user error.

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