Rubber grip peeling off
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Sometime a short break can help to phrase things so that they do not sound annoying, Well that is the hope anyway, so here goes. Having that meter would be nice as well as having the histogram. But having them or not is a minor consideration in terms of what you are wanting to do because the app does not work with intervalometers. The only way you can get a time lapse sequence using the app is to manually click the shutter button, wait then click it again and so on. Even if the meter were there, you would need extremely fast reflexes to see and react to a lighting change by changing the settings and then going back to clicking the shutter button. Doing that for hours would be a feat indeed. The equipment you mention does this by analyzing several past images and predicting what settings to apply to the next incoming image. Right now the app has the live view which will tell you if an area is over or under exposed, but as far as what you are wanting to do without being able to connect the app to an intervalometer, well … -
By Heccie Thump · Posted
I want to check with you guys on how image stabilisation is meant to work on the XT4 and whether I might have an issue. I was out with the camera yesterday with the 80mm macro lens, which has OIS, and the 1.4 Teleconverter and did some tests to see how good the stabilisation was performing by pointing at random objects/general landscape. On the lens I had the OIS switch turned on and I selected the stabilisation to be always on in the menu option and was suitably impressed with how much camera shake was reduced. However, when I went in the menu and selected Shooting Only for stabilisation I noticed something odd. My understanding with this mode is that when you half press the shutter release the OIS is meant to turn on and stabilise the image just before completing the shot. With the focus switch set to Continuous AF this is exactly what happened - shaky image, half press, stable image. But, if the focus selector switch is set to Single AF I half press the release and I get no stabilisation. The focus locks and the exposure locks but the image is still shaky in the viewfinder. I swapped out the lens for my 16-80mm kit lens and this performs exactly the same - no image stabilisation with Single AF selected, so it appears to be something to do with the body and not the lens. Is this normal? I would be surprised if stabilisation only kick in when you fully press the shutter release because some shots are taken with tiny fractions of a second of exposure and the mechanism will still need a finite time to engage. -
Thats an interesting question - there appear to be two different remote access interfaces to the camera : Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and USB - the USB interface does have a way of accessing a shutter count - I haven't seen any report that its available via Bluetooth/WiFi. -
Jerry. We're really travelling in circles here (please refer to my original post). I know what tethering is and how to use it. I use the TL Plus View to trigger a Zeapon system for Time Lapse and the two together work perfectly fine. However, it would be nice to work occasionally without this rig and simply use the Fuji app. The workaround you're describing is unworkable for any serious Day to Night timelapse as, apart from anything else (such as camera touching and therefore unwanted movement) you are constantly looking in the rear view mirror as to what it is you're metering, not to mention that the space between intervals would have to be unusably long. (sigh) All Im asking is that the app displays the exposure when using ANY intervalometer. There may be no serious workaround, but I thank you for your thoughts. -
Nope the exposure indicator meter only shows when using an external intervalometer, it does not show when using the internal one or when using the app. The work around is time limited, a variation of what I have described above, tethering the camera or grab an image using the app. Open the image in Raw Studio or an editor and look at the histogram, etc, You will see if it is over/under exposed. Tethering or connecting via usb to grab the image is fastest, the remote app is okay. If clouds are rolling in, it can be tricky at first. studio shooters use tethering a lot.
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