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    • By Jim White
      Hello all, my apologies if this topic has been asked before. I have the X-E2s model and normally use my 18-55 zoom lens. I also have the 18 f/2 and 35 f/1.4 prime lenses. Whenever I use these lenses it seems that the auto focus goes haywire. The lens is constantly chattering back and forth as if it is trying to focus. It does not matter if the camera is in the "auto" mode or manual. Or if the focus setting is single or continuous. The only time it stops doing this is when I switch the camera to the manual focus mode. The camera operates normally with the zoom lens but this drives me crazy when trying to use the prime lenses! I have checked the firmware on the camera and lenses and everything is using the most current version. Any help would be appreciated. I rarely use either of the lenses now because of this problem. Thanks, Jim White
    • By _visualstories
      I need help, i dedided to purchase a x-e2 as a starting camera, as i fiddle and learn it, it seems that i noticed something. whenever i take a video, this purple tint shows up and its affecting the video quality. it shows as well whenever i press the scroll button to focus, but then i took a photo its non existent. it only affects video. 😔 

    • By itchy shutter finger
      1.   IS Shortcut
      2.   Focal Length in Information Display
      3.   Y Axis Level Indicator
      4.   Multiple Exposures >2
      For my purposes, the FujiFilm X-E3 is the most near perfect system on the market. Note that I said "near perfect". I very carefully made my body selection based on feature set and minimalism. The optimal ergonomics was icing on the cake. No other Fujifilm camera body could make me as happy as the X-E3.
      That doesn't mean I don't think it could be just a little better, and rather than feeling the need of a different camera, I am hopeful for a modestly improved firmware as noted below.
      1.   IS Shortcut - There is no option to create a shortcut to turn off Image Stabilization via Fn, T-Fn, Q Menu, or MyMenu. XC lenses have no external switch to turn off IS (such as the XF lenses do), so the user must dive into the menu for this. Users who frequently go on and off the tripod currently must make that menu dive each time. As such a user, I would be very grateful for the ability to make such a shortcut.
      2.   Focal Length in Information Display - This would be helpful to zoom lens users. This information is available in exif, so I assume it can be polled for display.
      3.   Y Axis Level Indicator - Could be useful for scientific, engineering, or documentary purposes. I've grown so fond of the X Axis indicator, I can't imagine ever being without it again.
      4.   Multiple Exposures >2 - Fujifilm have done such an amazing job of maintaining the classic features we enjoyed back in the day. As I recall, however, every camera on which I could perform multiple exposures could perform multiple-multiple-exposures. I'd have no problem holding the photographer responsible for the exposure, but a photo with five or six exposures (without software sorcery) is still something I'd like to do on the X-E3.
      And that's it. These four features gets the X-E3 as close to perfection as I can imagine on it's current hardware base. And I can make a better case for keeping the X-E3 an X-E3 than evolving to an X-E4 (hint: any further hardware feature or feature that appears on other bodies are not "minimalist", which is something that holds high value for me.)
      Thanks for any consideration, and I'm pulling for you, Fujifilm.    
    • By eric2410
      Hi,
      I am thinking to grab a X-E3 by this year Christmas but is it worth to buy new E3 or wait for the successor?
      Some rumours saying that E3 will not receive an update but I like its weight and size as it matching to they style I shoot (I am mainly on street photography). 
       
      new X-Pro 2 & 3 is way out of my budget, so it is tough for me to consider the two. 
       
      Please feel free to share your ideas. 
       
      Thank you. 
    • By Dave Sharpe
      Hi. My lovely X-E3 has a problem. Sometimes when I press the shutter (fully press it, to take a photo!) there is a significant delay before the shutter fires. A delay of around 1.5 seconds. Enough to miss the shot, should my subject happen to be on the move. I am using mostly the 18mm f/2. I have tested the lens on a borrowed X-Pro1 and it works 100% - so it's not the lens.
      I think the problem happens around 25% of the time, enough to be very annoying.
      Has anyone else experienced something like this before? If so, what did you do about it? Thanks.
  • Posts

    • Thank you! This is great news. Fujinon XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 R LM OIS has got nice price, and its aperture in the range of 55-80mm is a little faster than on Fujinon XF 16-80mm f4 R OIS WR that I own, but at 200mm it's f4.8 which I can't tell is usable. I bought 16-80 for indoor sports but also for general purposes like landscape and architecture to complement my 35mm f1.4. For indoor sports, I used it in the range of 50-80mm so far, and I needed some more zoom, but I also know that at some other gyms that I've been before even the 35mm was fine when I could place myself near the court. Not sure if 55-200 is ideal solution for sports either, but it's much cheaper and lighter than 50-140. Heck I think even f2.8 is too small aperture for indoor sports. If I don't go for 50-140, I would most likely go for 55-200.
    • The push function on the rear-dials of the 'earlier' X cameras is quite prone to defects. I believe it was solved in the X-H1 and the X-T3 thereafter, but X-E3's have the earlier internal design. The push function could 'stick' in one function or between functions causing the rotate function not to work properly. If that happens, internal cleaning or replacing is the only option. Something that (most of) you can't do yourself.
    • Hi Milos, welcome. I'm too a Leica M user (M7 and M10-R) but I also use the X-Pro2. First, about the firmware updates. You can update straight to v5. Every firmware update contains the full firmware and not just the changed bits. As for the lens, Fuji has two zoom lenses that might work, but they are both a bit slower in terms of aperture. It's the 55-200 and the 70-300. Both have IOS (the X-Pro2 has not) so that is a benefit. Yet, I believe the 50-140 is the better choice for indoor sports even though the X-Pro2 isn't exactly fast in AF. Another option might be the long prime lenses. There are two in this category (I won't mention the 200mm): the 80mm macro is very sharp (allows for cropping) and has OIS but is is almost as expensive as the 50-140 and is not easily available as second-hand. The 90mm tele is one of Fuji's best lenses for portraits, is less expensive than the 80mm, but lacks OIS. It focuses very fast though. I loved that lens, but you need to learn to work with it esp. on an X-Pro2. The 50mm f2 is a very nice lens by the way and if the focal length works for you, you can crop by up to 30% (approx. 14-16MP) before quality becomes an issue.  The OVF of the X-Pro line doesn't work well with lenses longer than 50mm and the EVF of the X-Pro1 and 2 is a TFT-type that doesn't work well in low light and fast action (indoor sports). It has a poor refresh rate and in 'smears' a bit when you move the camera fast. You can however, learn to work with it even though it's not ideal. As for third-party lenses, I'm not aware of a fast 'long zoom' for X-mount. Tamron announced some lenses for X-mount (so did Sigma) but not in this category as far as I know. Their variable zoom lenses very quickly go to f4.5 or f5.6 once you zoom in. Viltrox and others focus on shorter primes for X-mount.
    • Fuji claims that it is exactly the same EVF (Sony-made OLED), but to my recollection the refresh rate of the X-T3 is a bit higher. The main difference (re. the EVF) is the processor of both cameras. The X-T3 has a later generation processor that allows for higher refresh rates. Make sure both cameras are in 'boost' mode when you compare them. Also other features (like brightness and color setting) can cause difference in EVF experience as well as minor changes in the optics in front of the EVF. Fuji isn't specific about changes re. this. I can't compare anymore since I sold both cameras and switched. From that experience I can tell that the same EVFs on paper can make a great difference in practice. So, always check the EVF yourself before you buy a camera. Esp. when you wear glasses or need to change the diopter.
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