Jump to content

The X-Pro1 - Still Perfectly Valid


Recommended Posts

"I've always thought comparisons were useless and ugly. It is a short cut to thinking"
 (Jim Morrison 1968)
 
In Part 14 of my Fuji X-Pro1 story it's time to continue our look at the Fuji X / Leica M comparison (part 2 of 2)
 
Last time we took a look at the physical differences between rangefinders and mirrorless cameras, but what about the emotive differences? Surely Fujifilm have nothing in the way of brand cachet that Leica have, right?
 
Wrong!
 
In fact, whatever Fuji body you shoot, I'm rather hoping this piece makes you hold your head high and go out and make some superb photographers
 
Link to post
Share on other sites

Indeed. I find comparing the X-Pro1 to a range finder camera silly. If you want a comparison, then the X-Pro1 is closer to the Canon A20 compact camera than to whatever "Messsucherkamera".

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Not exactly.

It is the same proximity of the Contax G series to the manual classic RF cameras. There where long discussion if the Contax G are RF cameras or not.

Nowadays the discussion raises again with the X-Pro series (compared to digital M cameras). And it has the same outcome: pure dispute

:P

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Depends on what one has as a definition of a range finder.

 

If it's a camera that has a mechanism for determining range (aka focus by any other name) then pretty much every camera is a range finder

 

If a range finder is deemed as a specific mechanical device to align to images in a view finder (which it blantantly is :) ) to achieve focus then the Fujis are not range finders...

 

It's a little like a quartz watch and a automatic watch.

 

They're both watches

 

They both tell the time

 

One uses a Quartz crystal to regulate time keeping

 

The other uses a hairspring

 

Both have pros and cons

 

But anyone who says that a Quartz watch has a hairspring is incorrect, sure the Quartz is a kind of electronic hair spring, in that it does the same job as a hairspring.

 

Sure the job they do is quite similar as they both oscillate in order to count time

 

But it's not an actual hairspring, because it works differently, it has different materials, and a different construction.

 

And that's how I see the Messsucher vs the ERF

 

As I've written in the X-Pro1 article... PERSONALLY and I mean PERSONALLY

 

I wish people would embrace the Fuji ERF cameras for what they are, clever designs made by a company with a long hisory of innovation and technology, whose film products have been responsible for some of the most iconic shots in history.

 

Rather than seeing it as a poor man's Leica, forever trying to justify their rantionale by coatailing off the back of Leica's accomplishments.

 

The Fujis deserve their own identity.

 

But that's just me :) YMMV!

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK! Another Sunday, another X-Pro1 article!!

 


 

This week, we examine what I think is the best way to incorporate the ISOless sensor into out workflow...

 


 

Enjoy!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the XPro1 a few months ago, new at the discounted price of $499.

As many others, I became hooked on the Fuji X system when I see the X100.

So I new use 2 Fuji cameras:  The X100T and the XPRO1.  I have the 35mm and 90mm.

 

The only problem with using both of these cameras together is that I find the X100T to be better in some ways.  The EVF is pretty dark on the XPRO1.

Plus, the optical view finder on the XPRO1 does not work with the 90mm.

 

I do love the XPRO1 however.  Its well made, takes great pictures.  And the lenses are outstanding.

Link to post
Share on other sites

you can enhance the luminosity of the EVF, have you done that?

 

The next firmware update might correct this problem of the OVF.

Making the EVF brighter makes the OVF brightlines brighter too...

 

I wouldn't hold our collective breathes for a FW that changes anything (other than lens compatibility) on the XP1...

 

Although some have claimed the last update brought a AF increase... Not convinced myself!

 

The XP1 is really quite snappy in bright light!

 

I've been researching how many extra shots you can get using the power save mode (for the website) man the OVF shutter lag is a killer :)

 

I had a decent store test of the X-Pro2 last week... I quite liked it! The lens mount seemed so might tighter than the XP1 (which on my samples is a bit tighter than my XT1)

Link to post
Share on other sites

the OVF becomes brighter by changing the EVF, really? I have used only few times the X pro 1 and 2 but how can this be? The OVF is an Optical device not an electronic one how can EVF impact OVF (aren’t you mixing up LCD with OVF?).

 

The next update is said to impact the “ speed” of the manual focus but probably will also enable the X pro1 oVF to reproduce a lens which didn’t exist when the camera was made.

Link to post
Share on other sites

the OVF becomes brighter by changing the EVF, really? I have used only few times the X pro 1 and 2 but how can this be? The OVF is an Optical device not an electronic one how can EVF impact OVF (aren’t you mixing up LCD with OVF?).

 

The next update is said to impact the “ speed” of the manual focus but probably will also enable the X pro1 oVF to reproduce a lens which didn’t exist when the camera was made.

It makes the FRAMELINES brighter, not the OVF :) the digital parts of the OVF are technically the EVF

 

The 90 has been around long enough for Fuji to add OVF compatibility to the XP1 if they were going too...

 

But I hope I'm wrong :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

the OVF becomes brighter by changing the EVF, really? I have used only few times the X pro 1 and 2 but how can this be? The OVF is an Optical device not an electronic one how can EVF impact OVF (aren’t you mixing up LCD with OVF?).

 

The next update is said to impact the “ speed” of the manual focus but probably will also enable the X pro1 oVF to reproduce a lens which didn’t exist when the camera was made.

 

Did it give you 90mm framelines?

 

(I don't have a 90mm to check)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well it's Sunday morning! How y'all doing?

 

It's a fine day where I am, and a day out beckons...

 

But not before I release this week's X-Pro1 story!

 

This time I tackle the original X-Pro1 "bugbear"

 

Or put another way...

 

How I capture motion with the X-Pro1

 

Enjoy!

 


Link to post
Share on other sites

Adam,

In post#35 you mention "OVF shutter lag." I use my XP1 with the OVF only (so far) and I'd love to know to what kind of lag you refer.

 

I enjoy the -1 articles. The ISO-less nuances are important, and they do affect minute to minute shooting choices. I wish Fuji's Auto-ISO lower limit on shutter speed would be absolute, immutable. Perhaps the way to deal with the squishy request is to leave ISO on a lower fixed setting and shutter speed set where my lower limit should be for the situation at hand.

 

Jonathan

Link to post
Share on other sites

It can't do an 'absolute' shutter speed if you're asking it to automatically meter the SS part of the exposure, because you're effectively telling it to ignore your settings if it doesn't agree with them

 

However, as you say, you can set a manual SS and leave it on auto ISO, then even when ISO tops out it will still apply your min SS

 

Mirrorless cameras have the shutter open all the time. Fujis also stay at max aperture to give a bright EVF.

 

So when you want to take a shot, the shutter needs to close first, before it can open, and the aperture needs to stop down to the set value (assuming it's not set to max open)

 

It still does this when using the OVF

 

If you use the powersave mode on the XP1, when using the OVF the camera basically turns the sensor off, so when you want to take a shot, not only only does it need to do the shutter and aperture thing I mention above, it also has to turn the sensor back on!

 

The work around for fuji shutter lag is to use the 'preview DOF' function which gets everything ready ahead of time...

 

Or

 

Just half press the shutter button before you want to take the shot, this works well in full manual mode, with a prefocused lens, because the camera will not be metering anything, so it doesn't have to be pointed at the subject. Although be careful with this if you're using auto ISO because it applies its desired ISO setting once the shutter is half pressed

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very helpful, thank you. 

 

So at an event where I have to react quickly I would

1. If possible pick one ISO (depends on how widely the ambient light will vary)

2. Set a minimum (*truly, gotta-keep* minimum) shutter speed on the SS dial.

3. Set Manual focus, Manual aperture, "Preview DOF" chosen and operating,

4. Select back-button-focus set to use AF-L in the menu: "focus-while-pressing" (closest to my Canons' operation).

5. Carry batteries.

 

If I see that the particular scene in front of me at any moment is a tone or situation which requires exposure compensation use my thumb to move the wheel on the top right of the camera body.

1. Way darker than settings call for -- dial in + exposure

2. Way brighter than original parameters -- dial in - EC with my thumb

 

This is what I have to try next. Then work out how the x100T or XE-2 bodies I own might need different settings to support the XPro-1. 

 

The shooting style or creative approach should drive the set-up.

 

Since getting the XPro-1 as a worthwhile holding place for what I eventually will use an XPro-2 to accomplish, I am enjoying the XP1 a lot and am not missing the XPro-2 during its teething stage. There's more work to be accomplished by "updating" like the wireless issues. I have an Instax printer, too, for the x100T. So the XPro-2 has to have that capability working well, too.

 

I can wait!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very helpful, thank you. 

 

So at an event where I have to react quickly I would

1. If possible pick one ISO (depends on how widely the ambient light will vary)

2. Set a minimum (*truly, gotta-keep* minimum) shutter speed on the SS dial.

3. Set Manual focus, Manual aperture, "Preview DOF" chosen and operating,

4. Select back-button-focus set to use AF-L in the menu: "focus-while-pressing" (closest to my Canons' operation).

5. Carry batteries.

 

If I see that the particular scene in front of me at any moment is a tone or situation which requires exposure compensation use my thumb to move the wheel on the top right of the camera body.

1. Way darker than settings call for -- dial in + exposure

2. Way brighter than original parameters -- dial in - EC with my thumb

 

This is what I have to try next. Then work out how the x100T or XE-2 bodies I own might need different settings to support the XPro-1. 

 

The shooting style or creative approach should drive the set-up.

 

Since getting the XPro-1 as a worthwhile holding place for what I eventually will use an XPro-2 to accomplish, I am enjoying the XP1 a lot and am not missing the XPro-2 during its teething stage. There's more work to be accomplished by "updating" like the wireless issues. I have an Instax printer, too, for the x100T. So the XPro-2 has to have that capability working well, too.

 

I can wait!

 

My pleasure, I'm glad it's useful :)

 

I think we can simplify that a bit!

 

The below is my PERSONAL preference, there's no absolute right or wrong here!

 

Set camera to Auto ISO 200-1600 and whatever min SS shutter speed you feel comfortable with...

 

(which for me is 1/100*, YMMV)

 

Set SS dial to A (aperture priority)

 

I see a scene I want to react quickly too!

 

1) press Fn, set to preview DOF, as I raise the camera to my eye

2) BB Button focus, visually confirming focus with the focus peaking

3) If necessary, make any SS adjustments using the EV dial

4) Take the shot

 

Preview DOF is the fastest you'll get the camera to be ready to shoot, minus the time taken to perform any automation (focus, ISO, SS etc)

 

Notes on the EV dial

 

On the X-pro1 it only works if the camera is automating SS &/or Aperture (on later cameras it will also adjust auto ISO) - in full manual (even with auto ISO) it will do nothing

 

It's easier and quicker to make SS adjustments with A mode, and the EV dial, that it is using the SS dial, especially if you need 1/3rd stops (which on the X-Pro1 are obtained using the D-Pad)

 

Yes! a positive value on the EV dial (eg +1 or +2 etc) brightens the image, by decreasing the SS

A negative value on the EV dial (eg -1 or -2 etc) darkens the image, by increasing the SS

 

I'm getting approx. 60% more shots per battery charge using the power save feature on the X-Pro1... it does slow it down though.... But IMHO not where it really matters!

 

The AF-L button ALWAYS makes BB button focus, if the camera is set to MF (on the front dial)

 

The menu settings for the AF-L button 'focus when pressing / on-off / lock focus - lock focus and exposure' refer to how the button behaves when the camera is in AF mode

 

Your XE2 will behave in about the same way, the X100T can use the EV dial to adjust ISO in full manual mode (I think...)

 

Cheers

Adam

 

*Adam's hot tip: use the C1-7 menu to have different derivatives of auto ISO, eg 200-1600 & 1/100 / 200-1600 & 1/250 & 200-1600 & 1/60 (etc), if you keep the other settings the same, film sim/NR etc then you have up 7 instantly recallable specialist ISO settings :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...