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just upgraded to fw4 yesterday morning. though a couple of things seemed odd(see below, #2 & #3) it worked fine for ~100 shots, then last night, out of the blue, it started acting up. tried to upgrade firmware again, used different cards & batteries but no luck. symptoms:
1. it doesn't record to memory card, i.e. i take the picture, the orange light stays lit (or before the second firmware upgrade try, it would light up green&orange intermittently - now it is a steady orange), if locks up the rear screen so that it stays on&shows whatever's in front of lens (i.e. as though i am composing to take a pic, but it won't come out of this mode - play button is useless, any other button is useless). camera doesn't turn off until i remove battery. when i restart, no image is recorded onto the card.

2. since the first upgrade, all icons in q menu only show iso, i can't modify them(it was this way immediately after upgrade, but i was still able to take pictures for about 100 frames; it is still this way)?

3. on the right bottom of rear screen, right above iso gauge, there is a darker, semi-translucent rectangle that is blank - it looks as though an indicator should be there but isn't (this also has been this way since first upgrade attempt, but it was working until last night). i put a shot of the back screen with this in the link below (can't find a way to attach the picture to my post here):

 

anyone else have this issue? any pointers as to what could be wrong would be much appreciated. thanks!

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/skh2rkfluqje850/IMG_0552.jpg?dl=0

Edited by perspektive
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Disappointed with Fuji X-E2 Firmware 4.0?

 

About Auto Focus accuracy with X-E2 V4.0 + XF55-200 F3.5-4.8

 

Hi,

 

I am often using my X-E2 with XF55-200, to shoot portraits (headshots) of moving people.
I was always disappointed from the auto focus accuracy, and still am with firmware 4.0. (But I have no other gear to compare.)
The XF55-200 is capable of producing razor sharp images, but if people are moving around, only 1 out of 10 (or even less) will be really sharp. The others are so-so, every $300 camera could do the job.
Just normal walking people, no sports, no spinning kids!
 

I have read the manual, and Rico's "The Fujifilm X-E2 Beyond the Manual" e-book, and tried a lot of settings without getting much better results.
I upgraded to firmware V4.0 and got Rico's "The Fujifilm X-T10 115 X-Pert Tips to Get the Most Out of Your Camera" book.
I tried the new zone auto-focus-area without getting much better results.

 

My Settings:
- High performance mode is ON.
- AF mode "C" continuous.
- Continuous shooting - Burst mode Slow.
- Mechanical Shutter.
- Face detection: Off: Reason: If there is more than one face, it often selects faces outside the selected focus zone; the selected face is often not the nearest; My opinion: In focus-area selection "zone mode", face detection should be limited to the selected zone.
- Focus-area selection: 3x3 Zone situated entirely in PDAF zone.
- Lens Firmware is up to date.
- Aperture priority. (Maximum aperture for these headshots.)
 

Before V4.0 I often used to shoot "single mode" with AF-"S" and single point AF, seems to get slightly more keepers than "burst mode slow" with AF-"C" and single point AF.

 

V4.0:
- I am missing the very useful slow shutter speed blur warning, which seems to be no more present in V4.0 firmware.
- Autofocus is quicker in normal light conditions. (Not yet tested in darker conditions.)
- Burst rate (low) seems to be much faster. (To fast?)
- AF accuracy seems not to be improved in normal light conditions. (Not yet tested in darker conditions.)

 

I prefer slower autofocus/burst rate if it helps to get more accurate! Should I use a zone without PDAF points?

 

Did anyone have the same problem?
All XF55-200 reviews speak about a very good AF accuracy!?
What is wrong about my settings, my gear, or myself? Bad idea to headshot walking people?
Is it "normal" to get only 1 image out of 10 razor sharp?
 

Any other tips than those written in Rico's books?

Thanks a lot.

Edited by Bob123
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I do this with the autofocus trick.

AF-C only for faster moving subjects.

 

So, back to "single mode" shooting with AF-"S" like before V4.0.

 

- Do you recommend single point AF or the new "zone" Focus-area selection for this situation (headshot walking people)?

- Do you recommend choosing a CDAF+PDAF focus area or CDAF only area? (Is CDAF slower but more accurate or is CDAF+PDAF faster AND as accurate as CDAF?)

- Which AF area size do you recommend for this situation (Tip 67 Choosing a suitable AF frame or AF zone size)? A little bit larger than the head? A little bit smaller than the head? A little bit larger than the eye (that's what I use for non moving headshots)?

 

I will give it a try this weekend.

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Disappointed with Fuji X-E2 Firmware 4.0?

 

About Auto Focus accuracy with X-E2 V4.0 + XF55-200 F3.5-4.8

 

Hi,

 

I am often using my X-E2 with XF55-200, to shoot portraits (headshots) of moving people.

I was always disappointed from the auto focus accuracy, and still am with firmware 4.0. (But I have no other gear to compare.)

The XF55-200 is capable of producing razor sharp images, but if people are moving around, only 1 out of 10 (or even less) will be really sharp. The others are so-so, every $300 camera could do the job.

Just normal walking people, no sports, no spinning kids!

 

I have read the manual, and Rico's "The Fujifilm X-E2 Beyond the Manual" e-book, and tried a lot of settings without getting much better results.

I upgraded to firmware V4.0 and got Rico's "The Fujifilm X-T10 115 X-Pert Tips to Get the Most Out of Your Camera" book.

I tried the new zone auto-focus-area without getting much better results.

 

My Settings:

- High performance mode is ON.

- AF mode "C" continuous.

- Continuous shooting - Burst mode Slow.

- Mechanical Shutter.

- Face detection: Off: Reason: If there is more than one face, it often selects faces outside the selected focus zone; the selected face is often not the nearest; My opinion: In focus-area selection "zone mode", face detection should be limited to the selected zone.

- Focus-area selection: 3x3 Zone situated entirely in PDAF zone.

- Lens Firmware is up to date.

- Aperture priority. (Maximum aperture for these headshots.)

 

Before V4.0 I often used to shoot "single mode" with AF-"S" and single point AF, seems to get slightly more keepers than "burst mode slow" with AF-"C" and single point AF.

 

V4.0:

- I am missing the very useful slow shutter speed blur warning, which seems to be no more present in V4.0 firmware.

- Autofocus is quicker in normal light conditions. (Not yet tested in darker conditions.)

- Burst rate (low) seems to be much faster. (To fast?)

- AF accuracy seems not to be improved in normal light conditions. (Not yet tested in darker conditions.)

 

I prefer slower autofocus/burst rate if it helps to get more accurate! Should I use a zone without PDAF points?

 

Did anyone have the same problem?

All XF55-200 reviews speak about a very good AF accuracy!?

What is wrong about my settings, my gear, or myself? Bad idea to headshot walking people?

Is it "normal" to get only 1 image out of 10 razor sharp?

 

Any other tips than those written in Rico's books?

Thanks a lot.

Hi Bob,

first of I don't own the 55-200 so I cannot tell anything about focus performance of this lens. However, I noticed in your settings that you shoot moving objects in aperture priority which is not wrong at all (especially with good light) but I would rather go semi manual setting a fast shutter speed (1/1000 or so), set the aperture as needed and turn on auto ISO. That should allow you to freeze the action and should provide sharper images. Also, I didn't see in your settings whether if you shoot focus priority vs. release priority in AF-C mode. The latter will release the shutter (when you push the shutter) no matter if the focus has locked on the subject or not. Focus priority will release the shutter only when the focus has locked on the subject. You may miss the moment but you'll have more likely a sharp image. I would also consider to stop down the aperture to get more depth of field especially at the long end. 

Edited by SamOalea
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Hi Bob,

first of I don't own the 55-200 so I cannot tell anything about focus performance of this lens. However, I noticed in your settings that you shoot moving objects in aperture priority which is not wrong at all (especially with good light) but I would rather go semi manual setting a fast shutter speed (1/1000 or so), set the aperture as needed and turn on auto ISO. That should allow you to freeze the action and should provide sharper images. Also, I didn't see in your settings whether if you shoot focus priority vs. release priority in AF-C mode. The latter will release the shutter (when you push the shutter) no matter if the focus has locked on the subject or not. Focus priority will release the shutter only when the focus has locked on the subject. You may miss the moment but you'll have more likely a sharp image. I would also consider to stop down the aperture to get more depth of field especially at the long end. 

 

Hi Sam,

 

- I did some tests this Sunday. Light conditions weren't optimal: Very cloudy, some rain and some snow. So I got indeed a lot of motion blur. There is no more slow shutter speed/motion blur indicator in V4.00, and I am not experienced enough to constantly control the shutter speed. I noticed it a little bit late, pushed up the ISO settings to get better shutter speed: New shutter speed was around 1/150s-1/250s, but still far away from the  1/1000s you recommend.

 

- "Focus priority vs. release priority" in AF-C mode: Thanks for this tip. In fact, I completely missed this new V4.0 setting, and the default is release priority. (I will change these settings right now.) But according to Rico's tips, this setting should not influence the AF accuracy, but only the keepers in burst mode.

 

- At the long end (200mm), the maximum aperture is F4.8, if I stop down I will need even higher ISO settings (or slower shutter speed). It would be an easier job for autofocus, but I like to have less depth of field for this kind of portraits, and ISO settings as low as possible...

 

- I will make some test in better light conditions with faster shutter speed and/or even higher ISO settings and/or Auto ISO...

 

Thanks a lot.

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Hi Sam,

 

- I did some tests this Sunday. Light conditions weren't optimal: Very cloudy, some rain and some snow. So I got indeed a lot of motion blur. There is no more slow shutter speed/motion blur indicator in V4.00, and I am not experienced enough to constantly control the shutter speed. I noticed it a little bit late, pushed up the ISO settings to get better shutter speed: New shutter speed was around 1/150s-1/250s, but still far away from the  1/1000s you recommend.

 

- "Focus priority vs. release priority" in AF-C mode: Thanks for this tip. In fact, I completely missed this new V4.0 setting, and the default is release priority. (I will change these settings right now.) But according to Rico's tips, this setting should not influence the AF accuracy, but only the keepers in burst mode.

 

- At the long end (200mm), the maximum aperture is F4.8, if I stop down I will need even higher ISO settings (or slower shutter speed). It would be an easier job for autofocus, but I like to have less depth of field for this kind of portraits, and ISO settings as low as possible...

 

- I will make some test in better light conditions with faster shutter speed and/or even higher ISO settings and/or Auto ISO...

 

Thanks a lot.

Hi Bob,

 

The great thing with Fuji x cameras is that you can set shutter speed quite easy and fast with the shutter speed dial on top of the camera. The best thing is you can always see what settings you are in even the camera is off. Auto ISO works perfectly and you still can change exposure easily with the exposure comp dial. I think this is why so many people like using the Fuji x cameras (beside the image quality). You cannot expect clean images in low light and slow shutter speeds with the long lens with max. aperture of 4.8 at 200mm. It's always a compromise. In any case good luck and success with your further testing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Much as I appreciate the wide ranging update and all the new features, I'm amazed that they still didn't provide the option to set different EVF/LCD options for shooting and playback modes. How hard can it be? Is it also absent from the X-E2s?

 

 

I agree with this.

 

Besides I'm satisfied with FW 4.0 because it turns my camera in a new one, this issue prevents me to be totally happy.

 

Is there a hardware limitation on X-E2 so as to implement the possibility to always display images on LCD in playback mode despite the EVF setting (except when EVF-only mode is set)?

 

Perhaps I'm wrong, but I've read over here in the forum that the X-E2 is the only camera that behaves in this way.

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I had to check this again because I wasn’t sure .

 

My camera displays on the LCD the shot, for the indicated time after the shot and it toggles with the EVF if I look in it.

 

I remember that when I set it up, it took me some time to understand the menu because it was slightly different from my X-T1 but , now, it works exactly like ( if I understand what you want) you would want and exactly as my X-T1 works.

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I had to check this again because I wasn’t sure .

 

My camera displays on the LCD the shot, for the indicated time after the shot and it toggles with the EVF if I look in it.

 

I remember that when I set it up, it took me some time to understand the menu because it was slightly different from my X-T1 but , now, it works exactly like ( if I understand what you want) you would want and exactly as my X-T1 works.

It's not about image display after shooting (always OFF in my case), it's about Viewing Pictures in Playback mode.

I also miss this feature (set different EVF/LCD options for shooting and playback modes) so much!

 

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I can view playback both on EVF and LCD.

 

As I press playback button the image shows on the LCD and then when I look through the EVF shows, toggling between the two methods automatically, in the EVF.

 

You must have set this in a way that prevents this because I can just see it as I always did.

Edited by milandro
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Looks like Curiojo and Bob123 say following difference:

 

X-T1 - you can press "View Mode" button for "Shooting" and for "Preview" modes separately, e.g. :

Shooting Mode - select EVF

Preview Mode (preview button) - select LCD

 

X-E2 - you can ONLY select "View Mode" in the menu, and it is always same selection for both "Shooting" and "Preview"

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I had to check this again because I wasn’t sure .

 

My camera displays on the LCD the shot, for the indicated time after the shot and it toggles with the EVF if I look in it.

 

I remember that when I set it up, it took me some time to understand the menu because it was slightly different from my X-T1 but , now, it works exactly like ( if I understand what you want) you would want and exactly as my X-T1 works.

I've been unable to do it under my actual set up, i.e. View mode: 'EVF only + OC sensor'.

 

In this case, when a push 'play' button the images always are displayed on EVF. Same happens when I review a shot.

 

I know that if I change View mode to 'OC sensor', camera will toggle between EVF & LCD automatically but I've find out that this set up drains more battery and, could be distracting sometimes or affect my unobstrusivness when I'm on the street.

 

Could be possible that, having set View mode to 'EVF only + OC sensor' so as to operate the camera and photograph with it, when push 'play' button the images will be showed on LCD instead of the EVF?

 

IMHO the functioning described above should be included in the FW 4.0 and for me, is the missing cherry of the icing in the real tasty cake that this new firmware means as a X-E2 user.

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I've been unable to do it under my actual set up, i.e. View mode: 'EVF only + OC sensor'.

 

In this case, when a push 'play' button the images always are displayed on EVF. Same happens when I review a shot.

 

I know that if I change View mode to 'OC sensor', camera will toggle between EVF & LCD automatically but I've find out that this set up drains more battery and, could be distracting sometimes or affect my unobstrusivness when I'm on the street.

 

That's right behavior of FW4.0.

Unfortunately, there are no way to use LCD for preview when LCD/EVF mode is set to "EVF only + OC sensor" or to "EVF only".

 

However, there is kind of workaround.

 

BUTTON/DIAL SETTINGS > FUNCTION (Fn) SETTINGS > Fn6 > EVF/LCD SETTINGS  

 

You can set any Fn button to that, but I'd recommend Fn6 because this button does nothing in Preview Mode.

 

So you can use "EVF only + OC sensor" all the time. And when you want LCD preview - just press Fn6 one time, then hit Preview.

After Preview is done, you can immediately use camera EVF again, and just hit Fn6 three times to return to "EVF Only + OC sensor".

 

I know, it's not very convenient solution comparing to X-T1. But at least it's possible in that way.

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download the manual, page 72.

 

“Sensitivity” refers to the camera’s sensitivity to light. Choose from values between 200 and 6400, or select low-gain (L (100)) or high-gain (H (12800) or H (25600)) options for special situations. High- er values can be used to reduce blur when lighting is poor, while lower values allow slower shutter speeds or wider apertures in bright light; note, however, that mottling may appear in pictures taken at high sensitivities, particularly at higher gains, while choosing the low-gain option reduces dynamic range. Values of from ISO 200 to ISO 6400 are recommended in most situations. If AUTO1, AUTO2, or AUTO3 is selected, the camera will adjust sensitivity automatically in response to shooting conditions.

1 Press MENU/OK in shooting mode to display the shooting menu. Press the selector up or down to highlight N ISO and press MENU/OK.

2 Press the selector up or down to highlight the desired option and press MENU/OK to select.

R Sensitivity is not reset when the camera is turned off.
R The low-gain option reset to ISO 200 and the high-gain options to ISO 6400 when RAW, FINE+RAW, or

NORMAL+RAW is selected for image quality (P 90). For more information on the settings available with low- and high-gain options, see page 148. 

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Hi! I have X-E2 with FW4.00. Could tell me please, how can I get activated ISO100, ISO12800, ISO25600?????

Make sure you're using jpeg only and you'll be able to get the settings you're after. You can't select those iso settings in raw or raw & jpeg mode. Edited by magnesi
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  • 1 month later...

I've been unable to do it under my actual set up, i.e. View mode: 'EVF only + OC sensor'.

 

In this case, when a push 'play' button the images always are displayed on EVF. Same happens when I review a shot.

 

I know that if I change View mode to 'OC sensor', camera will toggle between EVF & LCD automatically but I've find out that this set up drains more battery and, could be distracting sometimes or affect my unobstrusivness when I'm on the street.

 

Could be possible that, having set View mode to 'EVF only + OC sensor' so as to operate the camera and photograph with it, when push 'play' button the images will be showed on LCD instead of the EVF?

 

IMHO the functioning described above should be included in the FW 4.0 and for me, is the missing cherry of the icing in the real tasty cake that this new firmware means as a X-E2 user.

 

My X-E2 is behaving the same way. I am dumbfounded, as other users on here are claiming that 'it works fine for them'. I have reset my camera to factory defaults, and it still behaves the same way as you describe.

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My X-E2 is behaving the same way. I am dumbfounded, as other users on here are claiming that 'it works fine for them'. I have reset my camera to factory defaults, and it still behaves the same way as you describe.

 

Don't worry, your X-E2 behaves correct. To make things clear:

 

1. Selected X-E2 View mode simultaneously applies to both "Shooting operations" and "Preview image". When you set EVF Only for shooting you can not preview images on LCD.

 

2. X-T1 View mode can be individually chosen for "Shooting operations" or "Preview image". You can use EVF Only for shooting and preview images on LCD.

 

X-E2 HINT: You can assign "EVF/LCD MODE" to any Fn button, and quickly switch to required View Mode by pressing it few times.

Edited by yukosteel
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Don't worry, your X-E2 behaves correct. To make things clear:

 

1. Selected X-E2 View mode simultaneously applies to both "Shooting operations" and "Preview image". When you set EVF Only for shooting you can not preview images on LCD.

 

2. X-T1 View mode can be individually chosen for "Shooting operations" or "Preview image". You can use EVF Only for shooting and preview images on LCD.

 

X-E2 HINT: You can assign "EVF/LCD MODE" to any Fn button, and quickly switch to required View Mode by pressing it few times.

 

Thank you for clarifying! I've had members in other forums tell me that I'm obviously doing something wrong. Glad to know I'm not as dense as I look.

 

Hopefully Fuji reads these forums and will bring back the ability to select different view modes for Shooting vs Playback. It is sorely missed!

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