Jump to content
bhu

What is your X-E3 wish list?

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

In order of appearance:

1) X-T1 size viewfinder in the usual X-E series location

2) X-T1 size viewfinder in the usual X-E series location

3) WR

4) WR

These two top my list by far

 

5) The new sensor
6) Option to assign ISO to a command dial without pressing an FN button first

7) Front command dial wheel

8) Tilt screen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's my wishlist for X-E3, and I would buy this camera in a heartbeat and never look at others :

- Larger EVF
- 24MP X-trans3 sensor
- Weather Sealing

- ISO dial (along with the shutter speed dial. If only one is possible I would prefer the shutter speed)
- Same form factor

Edited by xtrans

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My preferred order of importance:

 

Tilting screen (with minimal form-factor impact).

X-trans3 24MP sensor.

AF point joystick.

Very high magnification viewfinder.

Some Fuji-ish solution to the ISO UI issue. (It needs to be nearer to the surface of the UI.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are a few thoughts regarding the EVF:

 

 

  1. A larger exit-pupil would be great. This will make designing the EVF much more challenging but if Fujifilm can do it and make a viewfinder work without getting as close to the lens, more cameras could be sold. (An extreme example of a viewfinder with a very large exit pupil is the rear display on the camera.)
  2. When shooting in middle to low light, the EVF becomes too bright and my left eye becomes blind because the right eye image dominates completely. That is why it would be nice to have controls for quick luminance adjustment like a control wheel to prevent the viewfinder from overwhelming the image in the other eye. The camera's sensor could also be used to measure object luminance and automatically set EVF luminance as appropriate for the lighting environment. Also, viewfinder luminance can increase as magnification diverges from 1x to make that image more dominant but it should not destroy night vision unless the user is willing to trade it for the better EVF image. In fact, all displays and LEDs on the camera should adapt to ambient lighting conditions being bright on a sunny day or dim at night. (Keep in mind the dominant image is the brightest one. This is different than a dominant eye, which is the eye your brain is not trained to ignore, or blank out. It is easier than most people think to swap dominant eyes - much easier than swapping handedness.)
  3. Add a toggle that either scales the EVF image to the sensor size or scales it appropriately to 1x magnification using just a subset of teh EVF's pixels. When using lenses with very short or long focal lengths, the image size in the right eye does not match the left eye closely enough and I am forced to close the left. Viewfinders lost some intuitiveness in the transition from optical to electronic.

 

 

If you could make the viewfinder do anything you want, what changes would you have?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Psychic function button so I can control it with the power of my mind!

Failing that better AF - more points basically. Er,... can't think of much else really, small increase in pixels to 20MP but not that fussed. Move the card slot to the side so I don't have to remove my tripod QR, some weather sealing. I'm happy with it and glad I feel I have a camera and not an electronic gadget that needs constantly updating.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, it's not. With the joystick it is super simple to move the AF point while you are looking through the viewfinder. It's impossible to use a touchscreen then.

Not at all, press a button or double tap the screen to shown the AF box and then just move your finger on the screen. The AF square will move based on how far you move your finger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also hate the ISO dial on the X-T1, but eventually I still got used to it. My workflow changed to adapt that silly dial.

 

But yeah, I still don't know why they didn't made it clickable, press it once and you are on free roll ISO, press it again and you lock it down. I would have loved it so much more that way.

That or make it behave like the Shutter Speed dial lock. Edited by darngooddesign

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

X-Trans 3 sensor / X-Pro processor

Tilt screen

Touch screen focusing (or joystick)

Pop up View Finder

As small as possible

 

TBH this is my ideal street/walk around camera, doesn't have to be an XE/XT, can be an X anything!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, here is my list for X-E3 (most for better control):

 

 

1. Front dial (even X-T10 has it)

2. Joystick

3. Metering switch under shutter's speed dial (like in X-T1)

4. Larger EVF (but not that big as X-T1)

5. Attachable eye cap (all Fuji cams should have it)

6. Back AF-L button - better placement & bigger

7. Filp LCD

8. WR

9. Bigger grip

10. Moved forward a little shutter release button (like in X-T1)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What's the build quality like on the xe series? Is xpro and xt superior?

 

Taking the X-Pro1 and X-E2 as examples, the X-Pro1 feels substantially more solid. I do not know if it is more reliable though, or just feels like that (since most failures are electronic nowadays).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Until recently my list was identical to the joint list of sukeren and Hermelin above.

But then I read an intriguing idea in the Disqus of Fuji Rumors.

Someone proposed an electrical OVF, an EVF driven by an additional iPhone like sensor. Like an OVF the viewfinder could show what is outside from the main sensor. May be it is possible to give the small sensor a very high refresh rate. Considering that the current EVFs have a resolution of about 1M pixel even a 5 MP sensor would give some room for cropping when used with longer lenses. It would be possible to insert the live view from the main sensor avoiding a parallax error and still showing what is outside the main sensor.

Unfortunately I do not remember exactly where I read the original proposal so I can not give credit to the person who had this wonderful idea.

This electronic OVF would make the E series very different from the Tx0 series and different from the Sonys and it kind of would justify the range finder/view finder form factor.

However, pricewise it would be closer to the T1/T2 I am afraid.

 

Edit: It is a mess. Each time I read my contributions I find another typo. Couldn't I find all of them at the first time or even better make it right from the beginning?☺

Edited by Jürgen Heger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never cared about new models, what they will feature, when they'll be on the market, and so on. I mean, photography is about photos, not what a camera is going to have. But one thing really pisses me off and I'd love to have it changes on every camera since now on: the two buttons AF-L and AE-L. I don't know who designed their position, but it's less than ridiculous.

I don't have to be forced to buy the thumbrest, nor I'll do it, to avoid pressing the buttons while holding the camera.

That is really a joke.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

X-Trans 3 sensor / X-Pro processor

Tilt screen

Touch screen focusing (or joystick)

Pop up View Finder

As small as possible

 

TBH this is my ideal street/walk around camera, doesn't have to be an XE/XT, can be an X anything!

 

Pop up sucks. Had one on a Sony "pocket" camera. On sunny days light leaks in around you face like crazy and it is a protrusion just looking for and excuse to the knocked off.  I really thought it was going to be a good idea but experience said otherwise.  Cheaper and easier ti implement would be a nice big soft eye cup (probably removable and inexpensively replaceable).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty much a smaller X-Pro2 minus the OVF.

 

I mostly agree. The size would need to be slightly bigger than the current X-E2 but not as big as the X-Pro2 which is a bit too big for me. Size is a very individual thing, but then an APSc camera is bigger than a full frame A7 or even the Leica M6 that it was inspired by I begin to wonder ...

 

I would definitely need an X-T2 style rear screen (movable). I think Fuji got this wrong with the X-Pro2.

 

IBIS would make using the 90mm so much easier, so I'd love to have IBIS. If the Sony and Olumpus can do it, so can Fuji (and probably better).

 

I love the X-E2 styling, so please don't change that too much.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would want the E2 v.4.0 update (or E2s) with the 24mp sensor and a better EVF...but keep the viewfinder in the same place.  If this becomes a reality anytime soon I'd be the first in line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

since the X-E3 will come as a last member of the 24mpix sensor product line, it deserves some heavy optimizations:

 

  • 3.69M-dot viewfinder with 0.85x magnification with a bigger peeking hole and a bigger eyecap so that the sun isnt such a terrible bother as it is now the case of x-e2(s) without a custom workaround
     
  • larger capacity batery http://www.solidenergysystems.com
     
  • option to lock white balance together with the AE-Lock (Lock_WB On)
     
  • render actual focal length of zoom lenses on screen in real-time
     
  • usb battery charging (maybe also use of USB3.x for transfers, but thatd require connector with more pins on camera's side)
     
  • ability to save a descriptive text memo to each picture
     
  • aperture calibration option for manual focus lens (until the camera is turned off) and thus automatic F number detection between opened and closed aperture including halfstops and respective transfer of the F number to exif data
    (unless there is a way to recognize and register each lens attached using a characteristic light print of each lens on sensor or some other way to recognize any particular lens)
     
  • option to select a precise distance for which an AF lens should pre-focus itself
    (direct setting via phone or tablet remotely and on camera possibly by using arrows as in time lapse digit setting or utilizing the focus ring to quickly dial distance figures in combination with some milimeter, meter and kilometer switch like the command dial wheel on the back, which is usually used to adjust shutter speed or aperture)
     
  • focus bracketting option for taking an automated stack of in-focus pics mostly at F4-5.6 to be stacked later (or in camera if fuji feels like its worth the effort), selectable distance range like 0,2m to 00 (something - to - infinity) or 20m to 90m with a confirmation question should the camera be tasked to take 30 consecutive pictures (like this: 30 images needed, ok to proceed?)
     
  • if exposure time drops below desired value while in autoISO mode, display that time value in a different colour as a warning (red, yellow, orange, violet, pink, whatever)
     
  • detachable corner viewfinder with an approximately 1m long thin spiral data cable to be inserted between camera and evf or camera and other imaging device preferably with calibrated colours and clearly defined color space
    (placing evf directly to the eye, camera movement becomes 100% independent = no need for flippable rear display anymore)
     
  • "attempt" to minimize blackout in continuous shooting coupled with an attempt to lock focus in continuous mode
     
  • rolling shutter distortion negation - latency compenstation using the OIS gyro's acceleration data to dynamicaly shift line of data readout from sensor area
    (probably needs to decrease the video crop a bit to increase sensor area readout for videoframes, limited to lenses with gyroscopes unless gyros installed in the body - there are some actually for the electronic level indicator)
     
  • possibly make the thumb-rest with AF-L and AE-L buttons a bit bigger towards back side, so that the thumb has larger area to lay against and feels really comfortable
    (it is a bit too shallow as it is and requires holding the camera more tightly utilizing whole palm which is fatiguing over long period of time, if i let go, my thumb would just slip along the upper round smooth arc directly under the exposure comp dial. it doesnt have to be superbig, just let it grow 1 or 2mm to the back and shift it 1mm to the right side and elevate the curvature of the plastic part that copies the shape of the thumb 1-2mm to the upside or better yet, merge the plastic thumb-rest with the upper frame in one whole part and the thumb curvature can be then lifted even higher under the exposure comp dial making even more room for the thumb - as of now the thumb-rest is a separate plastic part, this would also allow to place the AF-L and AE-L buttons 1 or 2mm higher for better accessibility without the need to painfully bend the thumb which is the case of current AE-L, also make these buttons a little bit larger area-wise, i think there is enough room for it and wuld be even more after you inflate the thumb-rest to enlarge them about 10% of their current area)
     
  • increased diameter of exposure and exposure comp dials so that they are more comfortable to set (could mean enlarging the body ~2mm to the right, but if you implememnt the joystick, the enlargement of the body would happen anyway). a little cutout in the upper frame directly under the main time exposure dial for better access with fingertips wuld be nice (in case of larger dial diameter, it would be enough to cut in the front only, since the dial is shifted more towards the back-side and yes, it would mean there would not be a straight line on the facial side of the camera anymore, but thats the way of ergonomy, unless you want to make the dial twice as high so it can be comfortably rotated with two fingertips using just a gentle force)
     
  • it would be nice to have a lens-centered tripod screw at the bottom-side
    (im not using the mhg-xe, because im worried the arca swiss extension would get in the way of my fingertips while handling the camera as i do and more over itd increase the overall weight which is undesirable for me)
     
  • what else..? maybe the ability to detach the mic st1 using a spiral cable and holding it at a larger distance from the camera, making it somewhat more independent and less prone to pick up the hum from the lens stabilizing mechanism and clicks of the dials that would be adjusted on the camera on the fly
 
otherwise im quite satisfied with the shape, layout and materials of x-e2s, so i guess those micro adjustments in body size would mostly serve for better handling and would not drastically change the look of the body.
 
 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      /uploads/emoticons/default_wub.png">
edit: yea i knew i wanted something unreal, a (touch) slider (or trackball, cylinder) on the left side of the camera for setting the ISO as smoothly as possible, while aperture and exposure time are both locked
 
edit2: a metering mode to completely avoid overexposure
 
edit3: i guess shifting the 4 arrow selector 2mm to the upside will make it more natural to control with thumb once the camera is glued to one's eye..
 
edit4: option to show a larger and fatter version of the focus+dof scale on the display spanning from edge to edge of the display possibly with precise distance markings at least under each number for more confident manual focusing during video or even single shots. itd be nice if the display showed distance as a figure, which would be especially useful in the vague tiny space between 10meters and infinity, where you cannot tell if you are focused at 50m or at 1,3km or at the moon..
Edited by MartinP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would want :

 

 - being able to replace memory card without having to unscrew tripod mount (so central tripod mount i would gues)

 - usb type c connector with charging capability (maybe one for charging and second for video)

 - x-t2 quality video and autofocus

 -  front dial

 - WR

 - mic + headphone combo jack socket with a split adapter cable (this would not take more space than it does now)

 

 - Vloging aid -  either:  - tilt +touch screen ( with nikon 5500 like autofocus point selection ) for vloging with option to switch it off for purists

                              or:  option to connect a phone through USB-c for video and mount the phone on the hot shoe

 

 

 - maybe being able to work with x-t2 gripp? ( i know they are different shape now - but this might be just an inspiration for fuji engineers to come up with something genius again like intermediate grip or something )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By itchy shutter finger
      1.   IS Shortcut
      2.   Focal Length in Information Display
      3.   Y Axis Level Indicator
      4.   Multiple Exposures >2
      For my purposes, the FujiFilm X-E3 is the most near perfect system on the market. Note that I said "near perfect". I very carefully made my body selection based on feature set and minimalism. The optimal ergonomics was icing on the cake. No other Fujifilm camera body could make me as happy as the X-E3.
      That doesn't mean I don't think it could be just a little better, and rather than feeling the need of a different camera, I am hopeful for a modestly improved firmware as noted below.
      1.   IS Shortcut - There is no option to create a shortcut to turn off Image Stabilization via Fn, T-Fn, Q Menu, or MyMenu. XC lenses have no external switch to turn off IS (such as the XF lenses do), so the user must dive into the menu for this. Users who frequently go on and off the tripod currently must make that menu dive each time. As such a user, I would be very grateful for the ability to make such a shortcut.
      2.   Focal Length in Information Display - This would be helpful to zoom lens users. This information is available in exif, so I assume it can be polled for display.
      3.   Y Axis Level Indicator - Could be useful for scientific, engineering, or documentary purposes. I've grown so fond of the X Axis indicator, I can't imagine ever being without it again.
      4.   Multiple Exposures >2 - Fujifilm have done such an amazing job of maintaining the classic features we enjoyed back in the day. As I recall, however, every camera on which I could perform multiple exposures could perform multiple-multiple-exposures. I'd have no problem holding the photographer responsible for the exposure, but a photo with five or six exposures (without software sorcery) is still something I'd like to do on the X-E3.
      And that's it. These four features gets the X-E3 as close to perfection as I can imagine on it's current hardware base. And I can make a better case for keeping the X-E3 an X-E3 than evolving to an X-E4 (hint: any further hardware feature or feature that appears on other bodies are not "minimalist", which is something that holds high value for me.)
      Thanks for any consideration, and I'm pulling for you, Fujifilm.    
    • By eric2410
      Hi,
      I am thinking to grab a X-E3 by this year Christmas but is it worth to buy new E3 or wait for the successor?
      Some rumours saying that E3 will not receive an update but I like its weight and size as it matching to they style I shoot (I am mainly on street photography). 
       
      new X-Pro 2 & 3 is way out of my budget, so it is tough for me to consider the two. 
       
      Please feel free to share your ideas. 
       
      Thank you. 
    • By Dave Sharpe
      Hi. My lovely X-E3 has a problem. Sometimes when I press the shutter (fully press it, to take a photo!) there is a significant delay before the shutter fires. A delay of around 1.5 seconds. Enough to miss the shot, should my subject happen to be on the move. I am using mostly the 18mm f/2. I have tested the lens on a borrowed X-Pro1 and it works 100% - so it's not the lens.
      I think the problem happens around 25% of the time, enough to be very annoying.
      Has anyone else experienced something like this before? If so, what did you do about it? Thanks.
    • By DS122
      Hi!
      Fuji X-E3 for me is like my guitar processor - rule in few presets and then use them when needed.
      This is great concept. There are a lot of great preset recommendations around.
      I like very much photos from Tony Levin, famous bass player (David Bowie, King Crimson, etc).
      Like this one:

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. More here.
      Can you help me with camera quick settings that can bring similar result? Something like "Tony Levin Settings"
      I am shooting jpeg only and do not use post processing or any other adjustments.
       
       
    • By jw432
      What is this blinking red icon on the EVF/LCD?  I cannot find it in the manual.

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content.
  • Posts

    • But... You can't monitor audio and power the camera from the same usb port. I've tried several splitter options and none of them work; leaving me to monitor audio with their usb dongle and pull that if I have to power the camera with my monitor battery usb out. When shooting video a camera is fully caged, with matte box, rails and follow focus. You don't want to change a battery out. You pretty much have to tear down your rig to do that...  
    • 23 f2 quite better of 23 1.4 is laughly.
    • Is it too heavy for the little camera? thanks  
    • Go to SETUP (spanner symbol)  - Save Data Setup  - Copyright Information - change the information on Copyright and Author here) It is well buried I have to admit but this should solve your problem.  Peter    
    • Hi Ken, Have you considered trying Davinci Resolve?  I have used it with 4K H.265 4:2:0 generated with an X-T3.  Color grading tools are excellent.  Works well on a Mac.  But I know there is Windows version.  You can download the very powerful freeware version 17 that has no time limits to see if it works for you. Don Barar
×
×
  • Create New...