By itchy shutter finger
1. IS Shortcut
2. Focal Length in Information Display
3. Y Axis Level Indicator
4. Multiple Exposures >2
For my purposes, the FujiFilm X-E3 is the most near perfect system on the market. Note that I said "near perfect". I very carefully made my body selection based on feature set and minimalism. The optimal ergonomics was icing on the cake. No other Fujifilm camera body could make me as happy as the X-E3.
That doesn't mean I don't think it could be just a little better, and rather than feeling the need of a different camera, I am hopeful for a modestly improved firmware as noted below.
1. IS Shortcut - There is no option to create a shortcut to turn off Image Stabilization via Fn, T-Fn, Q Menu, or MyMenu. XC lenses have no external switch to turn off IS (such as the XF lenses do), so the user must dive into the menu for this. Users who frequently go on and off the tripod currently must make that menu dive each time. As such a user, I would be very grateful for the ability to make such a shortcut.
2. Focal Length in Information Display - This would be helpful to zoom lens users. This information is available in exif, so I assume it can be polled for display.
3. Y Axis Level Indicator - Could be useful for scientific, engineering, or documentary purposes. I've grown so fond of the X Axis indicator, I can't imagine ever being without it again.
4. Multiple Exposures >2 - Fujifilm have done such an amazing job of maintaining the classic features we enjoyed back in the day. As I recall, however, every camera on which I could perform multiple exposures could perform multiple-multiple-exposures. I'd have no problem holding the photographer responsible for the exposure, but a photo with five or six exposures (without software sorcery) is still something I'd like to do on the X-E3.
And that's it. These four features gets the X-E3 as close to perfection as I can imagine on it's current hardware base. And I can make a better case for keeping the X-E3 an X-E3 than evolving to an X-E4 (hint: any further hardware feature or feature that appears on other bodies are not "minimalist", which is something that holds high value for me.)
Thanks for any consideration, and I'm pulling for you, Fujifilm.
I am thinking to grab a X-E3 by this year Christmas but is it worth to buy new E3 or wait for the successor?
Some rumours saying that E3 will not receive an update but I like its weight and size as it matching to they style I shoot (I am mainly on street photography).
new X-Pro 2 & 3 is way out of my budget, so it is tough for me to consider the two.
Please feel free to share your ideas.
By Dave Sharpe
Hi. My lovely X-E3 has a problem. Sometimes when I press the shutter (fully press it, to take a photo!) there is a significant delay before the shutter fires. A delay of around 1.5 seconds. Enough to miss the shot, should my subject happen to be on the move. I am using mostly the 18mm f/2. I have tested the lens on a borrowed X-Pro1 and it works 100% - so it's not the lens.
I think the problem happens around 25% of the time, enough to be very annoying.
Has anyone else experienced something like this before? If so, what did you do about it? Thanks.
Fuji X-E3 for me is like my guitar processor - rule in few presets and then use them when needed.
This is great concept. There are a lot of great preset recommendations around.
I like very much photos from Tony Levin, famous bass player (David Bowie, King Crimson, etc).
Like this one:
Can you help me with camera quick settings that can bring similar result? Something like "Tony Levin Settings"
I am shooting jpeg only and do not use post processing or any other adjustments.
hi Suzan, I´m new in this Forum, but not new to the Fuji MF world. What about following work around. Use X-Acquire for the connection (you can chose which data are stored on the camera and which are stored on the computer) and work in C1 with a hot folder. I used this way during the days when the GFX file where not supported by C1. ( If done this with C1 V5 or V6) thanks Detlef
I use Lightroom for my FUJI files, but first use Iridient X-Transformer to convert the RAW files to .dng. I then import those to Lightroom and they seem better, and more easily sharpened. Iridient doesn't cost much, and although it adds an extra step to the downloads, I feel it is well worth it.