By itchy shutter finger
1. IS Shortcut
2. Focal Length in Information Display
3. Y Axis Level Indicator
4. Multiple Exposures >2
For my purposes, the FujiFilm X-E3 is the most near perfect system on the market. Note that I said "near perfect". I very carefully made my body selection based on feature set and minimalism. The optimal ergonomics was icing on the cake. No other Fujifilm camera body could make me as happy as the X-E3.
That doesn't mean I don't think it could be just a little better, and rather than feeling the need of a different camera, I am hopeful for a modestly improved firmware as noted below.
1. IS Shortcut - There is no option to create a shortcut to turn off Image Stabilization via Fn, T-Fn, Q Menu, or MyMenu. XC lenses have no external switch to turn off IS (such as the XF lenses do), so the user must dive into the menu for this. Users who frequently go on and off the tripod currently must make that menu dive each time. As such a user, I would be very grateful for the ability to make such a shortcut.
2. Focal Length in Information Display - This would be helpful to zoom lens users. This information is available in exif, so I assume it can be polled for display.
3. Y Axis Level Indicator - Could be useful for scientific, engineering, or documentary purposes. I've grown so fond of the X Axis indicator, I can't imagine ever being without it again.
4. Multiple Exposures >2 - Fujifilm have done such an amazing job of maintaining the classic features we enjoyed back in the day. As I recall, however, every camera on which I could perform multiple exposures could perform multiple-multiple-exposures. I'd have no problem holding the photographer responsible for the exposure, but a photo with five or six exposures (without software sorcery) is still something I'd like to do on the X-E3.
And that's it. These four features gets the X-E3 as close to perfection as I can imagine on it's current hardware base. And I can make a better case for keeping the X-E3 an X-E3 than evolving to an X-E4 (hint: any further hardware feature or feature that appears on other bodies are not "minimalist", which is something that holds high value for me.)
Thanks for any consideration, and I'm pulling for you, Fujifilm.
I am thinking to grab a X-E3 by this year Christmas but is it worth to buy new E3 or wait for the successor?
Some rumours saying that E3 will not receive an update but I like its weight and size as it matching to they style I shoot (I am mainly on street photography).
new X-Pro 2 & 3 is way out of my budget, so it is tough for me to consider the two.
Please feel free to share your ideas.
By Dave Sharpe
Hi. My lovely X-E3 has a problem. Sometimes when I press the shutter (fully press it, to take a photo!) there is a significant delay before the shutter fires. A delay of around 1.5 seconds. Enough to miss the shot, should my subject happen to be on the move. I am using mostly the 18mm f/2. I have tested the lens on a borrowed X-Pro1 and it works 100% - so it's not the lens.
I think the problem happens around 25% of the time, enough to be very annoying.
Has anyone else experienced something like this before? If so, what did you do about it? Thanks.
Fuji X-E3 for me is like my guitar processor - rule in few presets and then use them when needed.
This is great concept. There are a lot of great preset recommendations around.
I like very much photos from Tony Levin, famous bass player (David Bowie, King Crimson, etc).
Like this one:
Can you help me with camera quick settings that can bring similar result? Something like "Tony Levin Settings"
I am shooting jpeg only and do not use post processing or any other adjustments.
Mig, I have a X-S10 and am very pleased with it. You can have a different WB setting in each of the custom settings as well as in aperture priority or shutter priority or any other mode. If you set custom mode 1 to a WB setting of Daylight and then work in aperture priority with a auto WB but then switch back to custom mode 1 you will be back in daylight WB setting. When you switch back to aperture priority mode you will be back in auto WB. You cannot bracket a custom setting, that makes no sense. A custom setting can incorporate a bracketed setting of some type. You set up your camera with a variety of different settings eg black and white, auto WB, AF-C and then save them all as a custom setting so you can recall those settings whenever you need them. For example I have C-1 set for action photography, C-2 for black and white and C-3 for sun rise and sun set (using different film sims and WB). RAW files are not affected by WB in the camera. You assign a WB to them when you edit them . Hope this helps, Dave.
I am lucky to have the m246 monochrome. I also love Fuji gear. One of the reason monochrome is so different is because the removal of color array. Think of those picture of color array of traditional sensor and x trans you end up needing 4 pixels to represent a color. This is very simplified explanation and that means your resolution is reduced. Secondly less filter more light hits the sensor and the same sensor without the color array will be cleaner at each iso level. the only issue with conversion is that the lens are designed for light to go through a certain thickness of sensor stack. I found this early on when adapting my m lens to Sony a7, Fuji x10 and my em5. Leica has the thinnest sensor stack because they want their camera to work with their lenses designed for film. definitely interested if Fuji comes out with a monochrome!