1. IS Shortcut
2. Focal Length in Information Display
3. Y Axis Level Indicator
4. Multiple Exposures >2
For my purposes, the FujiFilm X-E3 is the most near perfect system on the market. Note that I said "near perfect". I very carefully made my body selection based on feature set and minimalism. The optimal ergonomics was icing on the cake. No other Fujifilm camera body could make me as happy as the X-E3.
That doesn't mean I don't think it could be just a little better, and rather than feeling the need of a different camera, I am hopeful for a modestly improved firmware as noted below.
1. IS Shortcut - There is no option to create a shortcut to turn off Image Stabilization via Fn, T-Fn, Q Menu, or MyMenu. XC lenses have no external switch to turn off IS (such as the XF lenses do), so the user must dive into the menu for this. Users who frequently go on and off the tripod currently must make that menu dive each time. As such a user, I would be very grateful for the ability to make such a shortcut.
2. Focal Length in Information Display - This would be helpful to zoom lens users. This information is available in exif, so I assume it can be polled for display.
3. Y Axis Level Indicator - Could be useful for scientific, engineering, or documentary purposes. I've grown so fond of the X Axis indicator, I can't imagine ever being without it again.
4. Multiple Exposures >2 - Fujifilm have done such an amazing job of maintaining the classic features we enjoyed back in the day. As I recall, however, every camera on which I could perform multiple exposures could perform multiple-multiple-exposures. I'd have no problem holding the photographer responsible for the exposure, but a photo with five or six exposures (without software sorcery) is still something I'd like to do on the X-E3.
And that's it. These four features gets the X-E3 as close to perfection as I can imagine on it's current hardware base. And I can make a better case for keeping the X-E3 an X-E3 than evolving to an X-E4 (hint: any further hardware feature or feature that appears on other bodies are not "minimalist", which is something that holds high value for me.)
Thanks for any consideration, and I'm pulling for you, Fujifilm.
I am thinking to grab a X-E3 by this year Christmas but is it worth to buy new E3 or wait for the successor?
Some rumours saying that E3 will not receive an update but I like its weight and size as it matching to they style I shoot (I am mainly on street photography).
new X-Pro 2 & 3 is way out of my budget, so it is tough for me to consider the two.
Hi. My lovely X-E3 has a problem. Sometimes when I press the shutter (fully press it, to take a photo!) there is a significant delay before the shutter fires. A delay of around 1.5 seconds. Enough to miss the shot, should my subject happen to be on the move. I am using mostly the 18mm f/2. I have tested the lens on a borrowed X-Pro1 and it works 100% - so it's not the lens.
I think the problem happens around 25% of the time, enough to be very annoying.
Has anyone else experienced something like this before? If so, what did you do about it? Thanks.
Fuji X-E3 for me is like my guitar processor - rule in few presets and then use them when needed.
This is great concept. There are a lot of great preset recommendations around.
I like very much photos from Tony Levin, famous bass player (David Bowie, King Crimson, etc).
Like this one:
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Can you help me with camera quick settings that can bring similar result? Something like "Tony Levin Settings"
I am shooting jpeg only and do not use post processing or any other adjustments.
Yeah, that sounds bad. Check my post. There is one dude, on the forum, and Ken Wheeler, who is trying to be helpful, to which I am very thankful. Usually I try to wait at least 6 months to 1 year before buying. Risky being a consumer tester for a new product. In my case, I too had issues. The "What Have You Done?" post. Took it back the next day, but am willing to be as helpful as I can be. If I don't have the answer, I'll ask around. I'll definitely remain active in the forums, as I re
I used photos, and it was on the right edge. parts of it looked like it had hair/fine lines sticking out. First I usually use photos, do the base edit, then use Affinity Photo for the spot removal if needed.