For some reason, Fujifilm have decided to restrict the interlock spot AE and focus area option to the single and continuous focus modes. On my X-T20, and from what I understand almost every model prior to the X-T4, the reference point for spot metering could be adjusted using the focus area while in manual focus mode. Now, spot metering in manual focus mode is just centre-weighted, perhaps with a smaller area of reference (though I didn't notice any change when switching between the two).
If this was a conscious decision, I'm not sure I understand the rationale. Personally, being able to set my focus and then pick my spot metering point is incredibly useful for certain situations.
Does anyone have any thoughts or knowledge as to why this was changed? Do you agree that it's a useful feature? Do you think it could be reverted in a firmware update?
By Omar Alamoudi
So I don't usually shoot video with my beloved X-T1. But, in the past few days, I figured I'll try to shoot a few videos of the kids. I know I couldn't use auto focus, so while using the manual focus, I found it very difficult to insure focus using either the EVF or the LCD screen. The focus peaking feature doesn't seem to work while shooting a video.
By Garth Ensley
Good morning all , hope you are doing well.
Im wondering if anyone may be able to assist, im trying to set up bot my xh1 and xt30 to have the screen split when in manual focus.
I just cant seem to find the setting. I can get a square in the center but not when the display separates into 2 screens.
Ive had a look at the manual but no help , so im wondering if anyone might suggest what i might try.
By Dale Schreiner
Hello - I just bought my X-H1 a few weeks ago and have been using it quite a bit to get up to speed. Last night I photographed singers in a small café using the 35mm f2 lens using manual focus with peaking since it was fairly dark. Everything was going well until about 2.5 hours into the session when the focus would change substantially even though I hadn't moved the focusing ring. This happened when I'd put the camera down for a few minutes. When I picked it back up and turned it on, the focus was very different. I hadn't touched it in the meantime. I'm not absolutely sure about this, but I also recall a couple of instances where the same thing happened when I was shooting, not just when I had set the camera down.
Has anyone else experienced this behavior?
I've also noticed that the Film Simulation and Dynamic Range settings seem to reset occasionally. And I've gotten a card error a couple of times in slot 1. I take the card out and put it back in until it works, but these glitches are a little concerning on a brand new camera. Again, have other users had these things occur?
I really like how this camera has improved my workflow and the quality of the images I'm getting. But I really want to be confident that I can count on it.
After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear.
The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort.
Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2.
Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.
I've tried a number of lens hoods, but they all have the disadvantage of not being able to fit the lens cap when not in use. This one is specifically designed to take the standard lens cap and even has a soft rubber ring to ensure a snug fit. Very nicely made in anodised aluminium. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252370651839?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 (not connected to seller)
Firmware 2.10. Newly formatted sd card. And yes, I've taken a few shots. Menu Set up - Save Data Set-Up - Select Folder - "Create New Folder" is grayed out. So I cannot create a new folder. I'd like to create folders so I can store images by date. Any thoughts on how I can fix this?
If I put my X-S10 on a table (or any other stable surface), focus on subject and set an exposure the will require more than 1 second of exposure (doesn't matter how many, just make sure that the desired exposure will be more than 1 second), set a timer for 2 seconds and take a shot and the IBIS is set to mode 2 (Shooting only), the shot comes out completely blurry, just like if I hand held the camera (which I didn't). I repeat the EXACT same steps but this time I set IBIS to mode 1 (Continuous) - shot is tack sharp. Why? I know that IBIS should be disabled if the camera is on a tripod or any other stable surface, my question is why this happens only in mode 2 and not in mode 1 as well?