Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi,

 I’m trying long exposure Photography using a 10 stop filter. 
I have 2 issues- firstly with noise reduction selected ‘ON’ and during an overcast day shooting a fast flowing river in Wales and using ‘B’ mode with cable release the actual exposure was 4 minutes, this was achieved by trying an exposure at say 1 min which resulted in black and thus increasing the time until it looked right on the scene and this History gram confirmed this. I  then have to wait another 4 minutes for processing to take place removing ‘hot pixels’, which I get.
But here’s the thing once noise reduction is turned ‘OFF’ the initial exposure drops dramatically to 45” ! 
I understand the processing isn’t being applied after but why has the initial exposure of 4 mins with it on, dropped to 45” whilst off ? 
At the time I was surprised it was as long as 4’ .

what’s going on to make it sooooo long ? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

That does sound a bit odd, it could be a one time glitch or due to how much the lighting conditions changed while you were working on the image, even big stoppers can let in a lot more light for a moderate change in lighting conditions.

(You initially mention two concerns, what was the second one?)

Try this, repeat the setup, taking a shot with nr turned on and go through the full process) Turn it off and take a shot. Turn it back on and see if the shot time jumps way back up again, all the while making sure to note the lighting changes.

 

On a related note, there is a way to get the same value of using nr via your image processing software (GIMP, Affinity Photo, Photoshop, etc., any of those that support layers with blend modes). Take your shots with nr turned off, then put the lens cap on, take a shot using the exact same parameters as you used for your regular images.— same time, iso, f-stop, etc.. Bring both the regular image and the cap-on image into your processor as layers, the stacking order will depend on your software, but it will typically be with the cap-on image above the regular image. Set the blend mode for the cap-on layer to “subtract”. This will remove hot pixels, etc. from your regular image just like the in-camera method does. But you save a lot of very valuable time while you are on site. The drawback to this is that you need to do this before you turn the camera off after taking the image set, and also take one now and then as you are going if the camera is left on for very long times. One other thing to note, if you are going to change any of the iso or time settings etc., you need to take a on-cap image before making changes to the settings.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jerry , I like the sound of NR in post I will definitely look into that. 
on the subject of the long exposures it is always like this , around 4’ with NR on and a more normal 45” with it off.

The 2nd dilemma you ask about is I tried using T mode and it just takes the picture, as in ‘click’

job done, so if the exposure is set to 1.5 minutes it just goes click, no countdown.

I have shutter set to Manual, Manuel aperture, iso 200 and shutter set to ‘T’. 
Any ideas ? 

Edited by AntJames
Link to post
Share on other sites

T Mode stands for timed mode, how long you want the shutter to be open. You need to set it to a time. Usually you use one of the dials, front or back, to set the time you wish to use. T mode is a long exposure setup without needing to use a remote shutter release in B Mode or dig through the menus to set up interval shooting.

It sounds like it is working correctly, it is just using the baked in default time. Once you set the time, and press the shutter button, it should go click and take a timed-length photo, then shut the shutter, you should hear another click as the shutter closes. Using a remote release allows you to take a second to let any vibrations in your tripod to settle, and then trip the shutter without causing new vibrations.

You can also dig in the menus to set up interval timed shooting with only a few shots, you can set an interval between the shots as well as a ‘wait before starting’ time.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep I’m aware it’s Time mode and like I said what ever time I set using the rear dial, let’s say 1.5 minutes once the shutter button is pressed rather than it starting the time it just takes a photo -‘click ‘

At normal kind of SS say 1/250th .

I've looked through the menus trying to figure out why it’s not opening on first click and shutting on 2nd but no joy. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, that makes it clearer, the way you wrote about no countdown sounded like you wanted it to act as a countdown timer before snapping a photo, which is an entirely different thing. T Mode should start click right away, but stay open for the length you set.

Did you buy this one used? Have you updated the firmware to the latest version? It sounds like there are a couple of things that may broken. If you got this body new, you may find it worthwhile to get the dealer to check it over while it is still under warranty.

p.s. https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/taking_photo/shooting_mode/index.html

Just to double check, you do have it in one of the p, s, a, m shooting modes? It sounds like you do, but sometimes one of the dials jumps into a position it should not.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Other things you can do to clean up the image:

In astrophotography Along with taking a dark, cap-on, photo of the same length with the same settings to subtract from your actual image you can also take a "twilight sky flat". This can compensate for pixels on the sensor that are more or less sensitive than others. A description of the process can be found here: https://physics.bgsu.edu/~layden/ASTRO/OBSERVATORY/obs_instr_skyflats.htm

Another thing you can do, though I'm not sure off-the-shelf cameras have the ability, is take a bias image/frame, or a picture of no exposure time. This will let you subtract the noise of the sensor itself. I think the best you could do is, with the cap on, take a picture of the shortest exposure you can.

 

Another resource: https://practicalastrophotography.com/a-brief-guide-to-calibration-frames/

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Hercules Cluster M13 (84 minute equivalent exposure). From a dark place, you can see this one in the northern sky just by looking up. Of course, having more than 100,000 stars in the cluster helps brighten it up a bit. https://www.messier-objects.com/messier-13-hercules-globular-cluster/ https://earthsky.org/clusters-nebulae-galaxies/m13-finest-globular-cluster-in-northern-skies/ https://science.nasa.gov/m13-great-globular-cluster-hercules  
    • I am guessing you do not have another lens? Can you rent or borrow one from your local camera store?
    • Gentlemen, I suggest you not to use bell collars. Let's imagine every time you move you have this "ding ding" in your ears.
    • Must be the firmware. I have this lens and the 33, which are great btw, and had a problem with the latter. I tried to update to the latest version, the problem is there are two, a white silk screen and a golden something. Once the updated was done, the lens started to focus continously. I deleted all the updates and installed one of the two, I don't remember which one. Then the lens worked perfectly. The problem is the Viltrox customer care doesn't exist. I tried to contact them to know the difference between the two updates, but nobody ever replied.
    • When I used the 50r for a couple of years I used my 2012 iMac 27" with 1TB HD, and 16GB of Ram as well as my 2014 MacBook Air with 8G of Ram and 256G HD Was it the best?  For me it was.  I shoot both JPEG & RAW at all times - and the files loaded fast enough.  The most I ever loaded at one time was over 9,000 files after a month in Colorado.  Does it take some time? YES.  But since I'm not a run and gun guy and am retired and don't do weddings or events any more I don't mind the wait as I have other things to do. Now that I have the 100s those machines listed above just CHOKE.  They do work, but you need the patience of a saint plus don't even think about doing HDR/photo merges, etc.  Not happening.  Since I bought my 100s I've switched to a 2020 iMac 27"  5k retina with 16G of RAM.  I find the 100s files quite zippy - and I"m talking about the raw files as after I review the jpegs to decide what I want to keep/edit I chuck most of them.  My iMac is a intel I-core 5 which at the time was the basic model available.  Initially I bought it for my spouse to do her work on which is why I did not get more ram.  Had I known I would move my work flow to her iMac I would maybe have purchased more memory.  But, so far, I've done the 400MP stitching, photo merges, etc in LR and Photoshop, and I use Capture One for my post-processing and I am extremely happy. Another item which I started using at the beginning of the year for the 50r and the 100s files is my iPad Pro.  I find that device to be a beautiful piece of equipment that I use both at home and on the road.  It's smooth, great and true color reproduction and FAST on JPEG's and RAW.  Since I only have the 512G version I use USBC Samsung Externals when needed.   In a four weeks I'm headed to Alaska and the Arctic for two months to shoot travel and stock.  I'm not taking my laptop - only my iPad Pro.  I love working on it and have developed a workflow that works for me.  I'm packing two Samsung T5 SSD 1TB externals, plus two Lacie Rugged 1TB externals for storage and backup.  If I need additional storage I can pickup another external pretty much anywhere until I go to the more remote locations. Hope that helps.    
×
×
  • Create New...