Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Similar Content

    • By AntJames
      Hi,
       I’m trying long exposure Photography using a 10 stop filter. 
      I have 2 issues- firstly with noise reduction selected ‘ON’ and during an overcast day shooting a fast flowing river in Wales and using ‘B’ mode with cable release the actual exposure was 4 minutes, this was achieved by trying an exposure at say 1 min which resulted in black and thus increasing the time until it looked right on the scene and this History gram confirmed this. I  then have to wait another 4 minutes for processing to take place removing ‘hot pixels’, which I get.
      But here’s the thing once noise reduction is turned ‘OFF’ the initial exposure drops dramatically to 45” ! 
      I understand the processing isn’t being applied after but why has the initial exposure of 4 mins with it on, dropped to 45” whilst off ? 
      At the time I was surprised it was as long as 4’ .
      what’s going on to make it sooooo long ? 
    • By Higgins
      Hi, I am sorry if I am posting this question in the wrong place. I'm new here. And, thank you for reading this.

      Like many, I have film simulation recipes under the Custom Settings. I would like to know what Custom Settings Name (i.e. film simulation recipe name) I selected for a photo I already took. Is there a way to save a tag under EXIF metadata or any other similar method that one can check later with each photo? If relevant, I am using a XE-3.
    • By JKR
      Hi everyone,
      This is my first post here. I'm in doubt about selecting the right lens, so I calling for your help. This is my situation:
      What I usually shoot:
      - Travel
      - Family (two children)
      - Street and daily life 
      - Portrait (not often)
      - No video
      Most of the time I shoot with hand held and no flash, so I think OIS is a big benefit. I also prefer fast AF, so manual focus lens is out of sort list. Of course f/1.4 is ideal for hand held but I can live with f/2, no big deal. The most important factor is fast and lightweight.
      I only print pictures in small size, so image quality and sharpness is not critical. However I don’t use Photoshop so I prefer no retouching, just use the JPG images right out of camera, maybe just crop/rotate if need. I also can live with noise of high ISO.
      Currently I use a XE3 with 23mm f/2 and super happy with this combo. Thinking about add one or two lenses because sometime I see 23mm is not wide enough (small room, group picture, or on a mountain that I can't step back), sometime it is too wide (family portrait, children playing around). So I see two options:
      Option 1 - zoom lens, buy one of these
      - 18-55 f/2.8-4: A lot of recommendation on this lens. It's cheap and has OIS. I just wonder if 18 is wide enough? 
      - Waiting for 16-80 f/4: has OIS, fast AF (hopefully), 80mm for portrait is better than 55mm. Internal zoom and WR also very nice for long term investment. 
      - 16-55 f/2.8: this one is expensive and way too big to go with XE3, and no OIS.
      - 18-135 f/3.5-5.6: Slow aperture, and 135mm is too long for me. I'd rather have 16mm. Also many negative review about this lens.
      Option 2 - buy two prime lens 
      - 16 f/2.8 and 50 f/2: Fast AF, fast aperture, lightweight, optical excellence and WR. Super match with 23 f/2. But no OIS and cost a bit more money.
      Would you please share your experience? What do you recommend? 
      Thank you very much!
      JK.
    • By nickepicke
      Hello!
       
      I recently bough an X-E3 and I am really happy with it!
      I want to buy a leather case for it though, both since I like the feel of it and because it looks better (and hopefully also protect the camera a bit), and I have been looking around. I was using the fujifilm original leather case for my old X70, and I really liked that one. 
       
      Does anyone have the fujifilm BLC-XE3 for your camera? Are you happy with it? From what I can see on pictures, the case is not attached to the camera in the tripod socket, but just with buttons over the strap metal thingies, is this the case? Is it still a good fit?
       
      Is the strap that comes with it in leather as well?
       
       
      I find surprisingly little information about this case on the internet - no reviews, no youtube videos and almost no one talking about it..
       
       
      If not this one, what do you use?
       
       
      Thanks!
    • By petergabriel
      I've been thinking about buying a ND filter for my 35mm f1.4 lens, but have no idea how many stops it should have.
       
      It will be for ordinary family vacation shots. Nothing fancy.
       
      I want to be able to take pictures at f1.4 in the south of Europe where the sun can get really intense during the summer, and my x-pro 1 has a minimum shutter speed of 1/4000/s, so what would be your guess, how many stops should the ND filter have?
  • Posts

    • Thank you! This is great news. Fujinon XF 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 R LM OIS has got nice price, and its aperture in the range of 55-80mm is a little faster than on Fujinon XF 16-80mm f4 R OIS WR that I own, but at 200mm it's f4.8 which I can't tell is usable. I bought 16-80 for indoor sports but also for general purposes like landscape and architecture to complement my 35mm f1.4. For indoor sports, I used it in the range of 50-80mm so far, and I needed some more zoom, but I also know that at some other gyms that I've been before even the 35mm was fine when I could place myself near the court. Not sure if 55-200 is ideal solution for sports either, but it's much cheaper and lighter than 50-140. Heck I think even f2.8 is too small aperture for indoor sports. If I don't go for 50-140, I would most likely go for 55-200.
    • The push function on the rear-dials of the 'earlier' X cameras is quite prone to defects. I believe it was solved in the X-H1 and the X-T3 thereafter, but X-E3's have the earlier internal design. The push function could 'stick' in one function or between functions causing the rotate function not to work properly. If that happens, internal cleaning or replacing is the only option. Something that (most of) you can't do yourself.
    • Hi Milos, welcome. I'm too a Leica M user (M7 and M10-R) but I also use the X-Pro2. First, about the firmware updates. You can update straight to v5. Every firmware update contains the full firmware and not just the changed bits. As for the lens, Fuji has two zoom lenses that might work, but they are both a bit slower in terms of aperture. It's the 55-200 and the 70-300. Both have IOS (the X-Pro2 has not) so that is a benefit. Yet, I believe the 50-140 is the better choice for indoor sports even though the X-Pro2 isn't exactly fast in AF. Another option might be the long prime lenses. There are two in this category (I won't mention the 200mm): the 80mm macro is very sharp (allows for cropping) and has OIS but is is almost as expensive as the 50-140 and is not easily available as second-hand. The 90mm tele is one of Fuji's best lenses for portraits, is less expensive than the 80mm, but lacks OIS. It focuses very fast though. I loved that lens, but you need to learn to work with it esp. on an X-Pro2. The 50mm f2 is a very nice lens by the way and if the focal length works for you, you can crop by up to 30% (approx. 14-16MP) before quality becomes an issue.  The OVF of the X-Pro line doesn't work well with lenses longer than 50mm and the EVF of the X-Pro1 and 2 is a TFT-type that doesn't work well in low light and fast action (indoor sports). It has a poor refresh rate and in 'smears' a bit when you move the camera fast. You can however, learn to work with it even though it's not ideal. As for third-party lenses, I'm not aware of a fast 'long zoom' for X-mount. Tamron announced some lenses for X-mount (so did Sigma) but not in this category as far as I know. Their variable zoom lenses very quickly go to f4.5 or f5.6 once you zoom in. Viltrox and others focus on shorter primes for X-mount.
    • Fuji claims that it is exactly the same EVF (Sony-made OLED), but to my recollection the refresh rate of the X-T3 is a bit higher. The main difference (re. the EVF) is the processor of both cameras. The X-T3 has a later generation processor that allows for higher refresh rates. Make sure both cameras are in 'boost' mode when you compare them. Also other features (like brightness and color setting) can cause difference in EVF experience as well as minor changes in the optics in front of the EVF. Fuji isn't specific about changes re. this. I can't compare anymore since I sold both cameras and switched. From that experience I can tell that the same EVFs on paper can make a great difference in practice. So, always check the EVF yourself before you buy a camera. Esp. when you wear glasses or need to change the diopter.
×
×
  • Create New...