Have to Increase ISO X-T1

[Scottie]

Hello,

Just, very recently started, to move over to the XT1. No serious disappointments except:-

 

I, almost, always shoot in RAW and in Aperture Priority. However, I have been surprised to find that, quite frequently, the shutter speed seems much slower than I expect it to be and have to increase the ISO. I have checked it against my Nikon D3 using approximately same reach of lens and the same aperture and it varies between one and two shutter speeds faster.

Am I comparing chalk with cheese, or, perhaps, mild Cheddar with strong Cheddar?

[milandro]

I understand that, despite ISO referring to an “ International Standardization's Organization” there is very little in terms of exact standard when it comes to sensitivity between different digital cameras and different brands interpretation of the ISO sensitivity.

 

So, if you find differences this might be so but so what? You would only experience a problem if you would attempt to expose one “ sensor” with the exposure data of another.

 

Even if using a separate exposure meter, you can fine tune it comparing and adapting the value to the outcome.

[Scottie]

Thank you for taking the time to reply and sharing your thoughts.

As to the "so what" I suppose that there are two obvious reasons:-

a) I wanted to know why there is an apparent discrepency

Increasing the ISO is not something I want to do, if I can help it, even though the diiference in image quality is comparatively small.

Once again - my thanks.

[milandro]

One of the real great performance traits of Fuji is its performance at higher ISO.

 

You might say that Fuji 200 ISO equals 100 Canon or Nikon. 

 

Well, even if that would be the case, forget the nominal ISO value and consider incremental intervals only.

 

Call the minimum sensitivity 1 , 2 its  double value and so on, now compare to Nikon or Canon and see what is what. 

 

Chances are that Fuji at incremental value 3 is still offering great performance, in some cases better than other brands.

 

The values might be arbitrary ( to some extent) compare results at each increment value.

 

Nobody wants to put up or down sensitivity with no reason but on the other hand the camera is the “ film” that you are using.

 

Exactly as one did one he put the film in the camera, you chose the film ( the camera) and you deal with the situation that you are given by exposing and developing accordingly.

[Scottie]

Much appreciated milandro. I feel less discomforted. I'm, probably a bit obsessive about maximum IQ when, in all practicality, there is no need to be.

[darknj]

I shoot in ISO 400 to take advantage of the DR200 mode and honestly, unless I go super 3:1 pixel peeping, I don't really see that much differences to fret about.

 

Even ISO 6400 are quite usable on the Fuji X-T1.

[milandro]

I don’t even mind the so called “ waxing”   allegedly happening above 1600 ISO

[Merde]

I don’t even mind the so called “ waxing”   allegedly happening above 1600 ISO

 

Allegedly, you say?

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[milandro]

did you need to push it to that ISO value ( 1600 not enough?) and how about processing raws shot at high ISO instead instead of using jpeg’s  ?

[flysurfer]

Allegedly, you say?

Is this really NR-2 / SH+1?

[Merde]

did you need to push it to that ISO value and how about processing raws?

 

It was just a test shot, but yeah, at f/3.6 and 1/20 sec I had to use ISO 3200.

There was virtually no post processing (I mean manual) except equalizing exposure (+0.7EV, raw image was underexposed).

I don't really care, I shoot raw anyway, but waxing is a fact.

[Merde]

Is this really NR-2 / SH+1?

 

D-Range: 100

Highlighttone: Soft

Shadowtone: Medium Soft

Noise reduction: STD

 

Edit: I've played with in-camera raw processing and there is a difference. I guess have to get used to different settings for indoor and outdoor.

[milandro]

Yes, you get that by using high ISO jpeg’s straight out of the camera

 

By processing your own RAW’s you can avoid that particular effect + it really makes me think that old fashioned photographer like myself rarely did those mistreatments and even back then they came at a cost.

 

Or they were “ special effects”.

 

There was a time when there was a deliberate technique to obtain more or less the same effect on skin tones using slide film , I think, if memory serves me right, that it was over-exposing 3 stops and under-developing 2 stops.

[flysurfer]

D-Range: 100

Highlighttone: Soft

Shadowtone: Medium Soft

Noise reduction: STD

 

Well, then you basically got what you asked for.  

[Merde]

Well, then you basically got what you asked for.

 

I just wanted not to have clouds in RGB 255:255:255 colour.

Oh well, just another quirk I've got to get used to after changing the system.

 

PS: I just love in-camera raw editing... Incredible!

[milandro]

I think this is the wisest approach.

 

Use things for what they are and not for what they should be.

 

It is what it is.

 

When we had analog cameras we had a tool and by means of changing film and and the way we processed it, we changed the results.

 

Digital photography has put us in a different position.

 

The camera sensor-processor, is the film which we are using.  We can use all sorts of tweaks on the data collected and produced by the camera but ultimately it is what it is.

 

Love it or hate it.

[flysurfer]

 

PS: I just love in-camera raw editing... Incredible!

 

I agree. It is quick and practical and an important USPs of Fujifilm X cameras. Strangely, it's often ignored and dismissed. You can do plenty of things with it in-camera:

 

You can turn a test shot into a low-key b/w image and even crop it while you are at it, all in less than a minute, in the field:

 

 

You can turn high-key images (taken using my "high-key trick" settings) back into normal key in seconds:

 

[flysurfer]

You can change or correct the white balance after-the-fact and on-the-fly:

 

[flysurfer]

You can play with film simulations after-the-fact and try out different options:

 

 

[flysurfer]

You can create pleasing b/w images with virtual color filters in less than 30 seconds:

 

[flysurfer]

You can enhance shots after-the-fact with push/pull corrections and different contrast settings for highlights and shadows:

 

[flysurfer]

You can even rescue overexposed shots (left), as shown in the middle pic, saving you a much more time-consuming (but also more satisfying) trip to Lightroom (right):

 

[flysurfer]

Oh, and you can also increase the ISO after the fact. Just push the underexposed image up later in the built-in converter.

 

Interesting note: The camera will still use the noise reduction of the original ISO, so no skin smoothing as long as the original ISO is okay for you.

 

You can push up to 3 EV (depending on the camera model), so shooting at ISO 800 even when the shot needs ISO 6400 is still perfectly doable in-camera.

[JRAPhoto]

I had a similar experience where my X-T1 recorded a slower shutter speed compared to a Canon 40D where the ISO and F/stop were the same for a given scene exposure.  Is this limited to the camera's ISO sensitivity or would it have something the do with the metering?  I'm curious because if I were doing flash photography I would use a light meter to measure the required light output for my desired shutter speed and F/stop shooting in manual mode.  I expected that two cameras shooting with the same ISO, Shutter and F/Stop would have similarly exposed images.

[CRAusmus]

Oh, and you can also increase the ISO after the fact. Just push the underexposed image up later in the built-in converter.

 

Interesting note: The camera will still use the noise reduction of the original ISO, so no skin smoothing as long as the original ISO is okay for you.

 

You can push up to 3 EV (depending on the camera model), so shooting at ISO 800 even when the shot needs ISO 6400 is still perfectly doable in-camera.

I've got your book on preorder and can't wait till I get it.  It's most likely gonna change my whole workflow with the X-T1.