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Hi,

I am very new in Fuji, Fuji X100 V is my first Fuji camera. Before this camera I used Nikon DSL (D750 a 35 MM sensor camera). On my first day out with this camera, I used RAW and JPEG Normal. For JPEG I used Vivid as I love high saturation. The problem is during low light condition. I set Auto ISO upto 3200. At 3200 I am getting lots of noise which contradicts what the camera manufacturer claims for this camera. Is  this normal, or there is some issue with my camera? 

Also I need recommendation, specially for doing street photography. Should I use RAW or JPEG? If JPEG then can you please suggest any specific Film Recopies applicable for Street? Should I use  Fuji X RAW Studio or continue doing my editing in PS CC? 

Regards,

Gourab

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A lot of folks use raw plus jpg, it has the advantage of giving you immediate ready to use images (jpg) with the option of tweaking the raw file when desired.

But since the release of X Raw Studio, and also after-the-fact in-camera developing (shoot only in raw and later on, the playback menu gives you the option of making a jpg image based on the raw data just as it would have done when you shot the image) for cameras that support those options, shooting raw only saves you a lot of space.

 But some folks like the jpgs so much they never shoot raw, it is your camera so try some options and see what works best for you.

I think by 'Film Recopies' you mean film simulations, ... , if so, then Pro-Neg-Hi is pretty good for rich color without messing up face tones, or maybe Astia, but be careful with Astia in some low key situations it can give face tones as bad as Velvia does, so keep Provia in mind as a backup.

ISO 3200 should be okay, try some more and post images if they still are bad, it might just be a slight underexposure is the issue.

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Hi Jerryy,

Thanks for the answer. Yes by Film Recipes I meant Film Simulation and what you suggested I'd try those. 

Regarding IQ issue, I am attaching here two JPEGS which I have converted from RAW using Photoshop RAW plugin. Image_1 with ISO 2500 and the other  one Image_2 with ISO 1600. Both have clear color noise. None of them are edited. Yes, these are bit underexposed but it was my intention. I generally use small aperture to get everything clear, but does this 23 mm lens has any issue with F14 or F16 level. Should I use F8 or F11 instead to get better clarity. Can that avoid the noise? Or whatever be the aperture, I'll always have to get correct exposure to make my image noise free? 

 

Regards,

Gourab

Image_1.jpg

Image_2.jpg

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Okay, there is a lot here in what you are asking.

Try this:

https://fujifilm-x.com/global/support/download/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/

It is free, supplied by Fujifilm. This raw converter gives you a lot of options for converting your files and can convert them to either jpg or tiff, both of which can be imported into image editors like PhotoShop or Affinity Photo or , ….

Also, there is DarkTable, http://darktable.org

which is similarly free and gives you a whole lot of raw development tools.

Both of these have good tools to help get rid of color noise, chromatic aberration, luminous noise, noise noise, 😀, etc,

This can help eliminate any issues the raw importer plugin may bring into your images (some of them have problems with Fujifilm raw files, they were supposedly fixed).

 

I have not heard of any problems with that lens at f14 or so, though some folks might suggest that f16 is at the diffraction threshold, which means you will start getting little starburst spots in some exposures. Every lens has what is called its sweet spot which means that this is where it will give its best result — best sharpness, lowest coma, etc. that also means each lens has its horrible spot where it gives its worst result, everywhere else is in between those two places and it takes some using it to find the best settings.

At first it might sound like heresy, but the “correct” exposure does not always mean your image’s histogram is that nice bell shaped curve. If that were the case the world would lose all of those low-key and high-key works of art. You have good low-key stuff, see if these suggestions so far help.

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  • 2 months later...
On 7/26/2021 at 9:07 AM, Gourab Guha said:

Hi,

I am very new in Fuji, Fuji X100 V is my first Fuji camera. Before this camera I used Nikon DSL (D750 a 35 MM sensor camera). On my first day out with this camera, I used RAW and JPEG Normal. For JPEG I used Vivid as I love high saturation. The problem is during low light condition. I set Auto ISO upto 3200. At 3200 I am getting lots of noise which contradicts what the camera manufacturer claims for this camera. Is  this normal, or there is some issue with my camera? 

Also I need recommendation, specially for doing street photography. Should I use RAW or JPEG? If JPEG then can you please suggest any specific Film Recopies applicable for Street? Should I use  Fuji X RAW Studio or continue doing my editing in PS CC? 

 

I find that the camera's ISO3200 is acceptable, it doesn't bother me.  Perhaps if you posted a sample of your ISO3200 we could tell you if it's similar to what we're experiencing?

I shoot street photography almost exclusively with my X100V.  I shoot in raw format and process with Lightroom.  I just use the built-in Fuji presets or I'll use Adobe's default presets.

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Sharpening and noise reduction are essentially two sides of one coin. You have to balance them well in order to get the best results. My experience is that Fuji has very aggressive sharpening settings and equally aggressive noise reduction. I've dialed them down in all my Fuji cameras. The issue is that many people believe they need to crank up noise reduction to get cleaner low-light images, whereas a slightly reduced sharpening might help more. I always prefer a bit more 'grain' over esp. color noise.

I've got the best experiences with Capture One (C1) and their default noise reduction and sharpening is already quite good, but can be improved by reducing the Threshold in C1 for normal ISO images (up to ISO1600). For ISO3200 I would set the Threshold between 0.2 and 1.0. Secondly, reduce in C1 also the Luminance NR for low/normal ISO images to around 20 (max) and for ISO3200 to max 50. Details can be set to between 25-100 for ISO3200 images (and between 0-50 for normal ISO) depending your visual need.

Should you wish to read more on how to process RAF files with C1 or LR, Thomas Fitzgerald has an excellent guide for download at his website: Thomas Fitzgerald Photography | Photo Editing Expert

However, the level of noise at higher ISO (like 3200) is also very personal and depending on your previous experience. You mention you've used a D750. That camera has one of the best non-BSI 24MP full-frame sensors ever made and it will be hard to compare images at ISO3200 against the APS-C X100V even though the X100V is quite good for it's sensor-size. 

Edited by Herco
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I shoot both RAW and JPG, but mostly use JPEGs when sharing. And here's my reasoning.

My film sim of choice on my X-T2 is Acros+R. Street, landscape, portraits, are almost always in B&W for a couple of reasons. I find i just see better in black and white and can focus on composition. I know I have the RAW file if I want color or to make adjustments. And I typically use the phone app to pull JPEGs immediately to post to Instagram or to email to the subjects of events or street portraits.

When I shoot with adapted lenses and manual focus, the black and white rendition allows the red-outlined focus peaking highlight to be easily visible enabling faster focusing.

And ISO 3200 noise in B&W looks just fine to my eyes.

Also, I encourage you to explore faster apertures and topping out at f/8. A more shallow depth of field aids the viewer and even at f/8 there should be plenty in focus and sharper images.

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The noise is mainly determined by the exposure (shutter speed and aperture), not by ISO. That is why some do not see much noise at ISO 3200, and some do. With any camera, to minimize the noise, you want to open the aperture and slow down shutter speed as it fits your creative constraints (DOF, object movement, camera shake).

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