Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello gang,

 

So I am starting become more and more familiar with the X-Pro1, which admittedly hasn't been too difficult since the X-Pro1 feels like a larger X100s. 

 

As I dive more into, I found a few blogs that discussed the benefits of back button focusing. So I thought I'd give a try:

 

Steps:

1. Switch to Manual Focus

2. Press AF-L button to focus lens

3. Take pic

Done

 

So pretty easy, and pardon me for my newbiness, but am I doing this correctly? I still can't quite differentiate if there's a real boost in accuracy, but do see a boost in efficiency from the first shot to subsequent shots. My limited experience so far has shown that back button focus locks focus rather quickly for a second third fourth etc image of the same subject using the same focus point. With regular auto focus, the lens will shift back and forth to refocus even though the all the shots are of the same subject with the same focus point. So it feels like a mini burst mode with back button focus. 

 

Thanks for sharing your experiences to eager fledglings like myself!

 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, that is the routine. It is great for using zone-focus when you are shooting street or action. Given enough light, stop the lens down to get a reasonable depth of field, use the button to focus on some object in the middle of the zone and then go ahead and shoot. The advantage is that there is no lag while the lens is focusing.

 

When the f/2.4 60mm came on the market, many people in forums declared it was only useful for static subject matter. Any subject movement at all and it was a complete failure. I expect a lot of people actually believed this and passed up a superb optic. They were too inexperienced to realize that a macro lens has a vast focusing range and a bit more anticipation is needed while it seeks focus. However, it also works great with zone focusing. 

 

A couple of years ago, I found myself as a houseguest in a far northern town. The son of the family played hockey in a Peewee league (10-11-year-olds), and we all trooped down to the local skating rink to watch him play. Upon arriving, I focused on the goal and did a test shot at f/2.4. The boards opposite my position were somewhat out of focus. Another test at f/4.0 and they were sharp. The foreground was sharp up to the point the players over-ran the frame. The OVF showed a considerable area outside the frame, which made the X-Pro1 remarkably good for covering the sport. One could instantly shift the frame to cover developing action just outside. 

 

The results were superb. The contrast was low, so I was able to underexpose by a stop, giving me a shutter speed of 1/1000th without any loss of shadow detail. Thus set, I was able to ignore camera operation and nail peak of action after peak of action. Not one single frame was culled because of softness. See:

http://larry-bolch.com/ephemeral/hockey/ 

 

The same technique works equally well when shooting candid on the street or when pursuing a ballistic toddler. An added bonus is  that most lenses are at their peak of sharpness between f/4.0 and f/8.0. While f/11 may show a bit of fall-off due to diffraction in the optical lab, it will not be noticed in real-world photography.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

 

Thank you very much Larry for the thorough explanation and also great examples!! This is exactly why I signed up, so that I can learn as much from veterans like yourself! I agree, many times I don't fault the X-Pro1 but rather know that I have quite a bit of learning beyond the basics of exposure. I'll definitely give back button focusing a go on some moving objects soon. Thanks again Larry!! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Example: I am using a custom recipe, and I then use the film simulation dial to select a simulation. Are values from the custom recipe carried over, such as highlights, shadow, and white balance etc.? After studying the articles in Fuji X Weekly, this appears to be the case If you set a recipe on one of the C slots its settings will be applied to all the film simulations on the dial. The workaround is to use your 'standard' recipe at C1.   Please clarify this for me . I would have thought the film simulation dial would have no input from other camera settings.   Thank you - Very Confuded!
    • Is this on the X-T30 II? Sounds like you have HDR selected in the shooting menu. The other alternative when you see the "storing" message is that the Clarity setting is non-zero but that doesn't cause multiple clicks.
    • My XS10 came with a Capture One license but my PC at the time would barely run it so I stuck with my ancient version of Picasa.  Bought a new PC and my old Capture One has been deprecated and fuji site only talks about a 3 month trial.  Is there a work around or should I be looking for something else?
    • On aperture priority and single shot, camera clicks twice after one shot and then takes several seconds showing "storing" message.  This is a new camera and did not do this at first.  Does not do this on auto.
    • I have the Fuji 80 mm macro and really like it. It's very sharp and I use it for macro but also for general photography. If you find yourself zoomed to 55, this may land in the right spot. Also, this lens is very good with magnification distortion (pincushion or barrel), which is probably important if you're doing product photography and the product has straight lines. It is autofocus. I hear you don't prioritize that, but there's something else you gain when you have autofocus. You can combine multiple photos taken at slightly different focus distances, using stacking software, and autofocus lets the camera automate the process of taking all these, using focus bracketing. It even calculates how much the focus should change between these exposures. This lens, new, is above your stated budget. Maybe you can find it used? In any case, options are always nice to have, and others may like this option too. So, just a thought. One more thing: I've never used the Laowa macro you mention, but I do have their circular fisheye. I love circular fisheyes, and also have two other brands, and comparing them I find the Laowa is considerably better than the other two. That's a vote for Laowa.
×
×
  • Create New...