Jump to content
PutoConstante

Help me choose an all around camera! XP1, XE1 or XE3

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Looking to get my first fuji camera for awhile, something I can carry for everyday use. 

Mainly portraits and more music documentary shots as I'm currently shooting Sony and it gets the job done for video and photography but (as some people) I see it as a work camera and can't seem to enjoy shooting for fun with it to be honest.

 

I love the "classic instagram #leicamag" Leica look from the M242/ M10/Q for portraits with the low highlights and "film look" replica that some can execute perfectly and I'm wondering if it's really the sensor or just good editing and matching... But damn those skin tones colours get me everytime.

 

Right now I'm leaning towards the XP1 because of all the first generation sensor talk but I'm gonna be shooting raw most of the time unless the jpegs are as good as most people say, so is this 1st gen really worth the hassle or should I just pick up an used XE3? I'm looking mainly for great colours, specially skin tones.

 

Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 'Fuji-colors' are mostly a product of the JPEG-engine in the cameras. While there is a slight difference between the 16MP and the 24MP, most differences are due to the JPEG engine and between lenses. Some of the older lenses (the fast 23, 35 and 56) have a 'special' film-like quality. It has mostly to do with how they render color and contrast. Using these lenses on the newer cameras, results in the same effect. Fuji-purists sometimes praise the older 16MP sensor for its character, but to my eye the 24MP sensor is just as good and has the resolution to do additional cropping. I've owned 6 Fuji cameras over the past 9 years (and still own 2) and the newer cams are just as good as the older ones (if not better).

I've had the XP1 but upgrading to the XP2 didn't affect the colors in RAW. In fact, the JPEG-engine in the newer cams (like the XP2 and the XE3) can also control the film grain and has a few more film simulations that can be an advantage. Esp. Classic Chrome can be made to look similar to the 'Leica-look' (I've used a/o the M8 and the M262).

To learn more check out fujiweekly.com and the film recipes outlined there. Also check-out the RAW and JPEG manuals of Thomas Fitzgerald. He gives very good advise on how to set sharpening and noise reduction. Fuji's JPEG engines are too aggressive to my liking, so I dial down NR to -2 or -3 on the 24MP-cameras and Sharpening to -1 or -2. I use Capture One as imo it works way better with RAF-files than LR.

PS. with the new XP3 out, second-hand prices for the XP2 dropped. While not as low-priced as a used XE3, an XP2 is now great value-for-money. 

Edited by Herco

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Herco thank you so much for the informative response!

Yeah I've been looking at the XP2 but I'm in the 400/500€ budget (at least for now) as it won't be a camera I'll use for professional work where I usually need fast and accurate AF, hence the Sony.

I'll probably move full Fuji next year to be honest 😅

The older lenses you're referring to are the 1.4 versions? I was thinking of getting either the Viltrox 23mm or the 7artisans 25mm but probably the 7artisans as it will probably have a more "film"/vintage look unless I get a really good deal on a Fuji.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I indeed refer to the 1.4/1.2 versions. I don't have experience with the Viltrox and 7artisans lenses. The Zeiss Touit lenses for Fuji also have a great film-like look to them, but they are rather expensive (also used).

Funny enough, I'm in the process of moving to Sony or Leica for my professional work (fashion portraits). I have the A7RIV and the SL2 now on trail and will decide which one (and esp. which lenses) in a couple of weeks. I'll keep the XP2 and some of the f2 lenses for fun when I need a compact set for personal use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Posts

    • Thanks so much! My Q button was usable the day I bought my new Xt4 then whilst I was playing with the settings I disabled it somehow and didn't know what I'd done. You just made my day since I hadn't been able to work out how to get it back. I had noticed the lock on also but hadn't looked thru the manual yet to see what it was. 
    • Alguien me puede explicar como activar la sincronizacion en 2a cortina en mi X-T2? A pesar de dejar activado el rear de 2a cortina, cuando disparo con 1/1000 me sale como si estuviera haciendo la foto en sincro con la 1a cortina . Tengo un Godox 860II tengo que activar algo ahi?
    • Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. X-E2 + 27f2.8  
    • Thank you for your insights. I think even without my menu it just starts "from scratch" in the menus, which is especially annoying if you change the buried custom display settings. Another minor problem is the display of the highest ISO if ISO is in auto mode in the display. I find it distracting and not of much value, instead I would like to see a real time update of the chosen iso of the current lighting situation. If I half press the shutter it seems to work this way but it doesnt seem v
    • My R2  (Fuji)transmitter no longer displays ttl as a Mode choice  on my Fuji Xt2, x100f and x100v. I only see M or -- as options when pushing the mode button. My older R2 Pro model does work in all three modes, M, ttl and --.    Problem solved.  The newer R2Mark II transmitter has a Shutter option with a choice of either Curtain or Leaf.  When Leaf is selected (appropriate for x100) then the only mode choices are M/--. If you select Curtain then the choice become M/TTL/-- .  If you select C
×
×
  • Create New...