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Will a soft release button help me control bursts?


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The  failing or detaching of the adhesive rubber coating seems to be a common occurrence yet not all X-T1 owners are lamenting the rubber wearing out, falling off and the bulging of the doors.

 

Whatever it is, Fuji is not, by and large, refusing to address the problem. 

 

These things happen.

 

Every company has to deal with problems and companies shouldn’t be judged because of the freaky occurrence of a rubber skin ( a material which they bought in good faith) falling off but they should be judged based on the way they deal with a problem.

 

So far they came up trumps whenever a member has taken the proper initiative to get in touch with the head office.

 

The local repair labs, I have to say, don’t have an equally positive attitude and sometimes, as we have seen, they have said no and then the head office said yes.

 

Perhaps Fuji should keep the reins a little tighter and teach their repair people that gaining a customer is difficult an losing one is VERY easy!

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I tried different settings. The way Fuji goves us CH and CL - is totally wrong. The right way is when you can - controll amount of pictures taken - in CL - starting from single shot! Others can do it - Fuji can - only not with this model...

Why for goodness sake would anyone need this? It will be a pain if a camera stops shooing in the middle of a series. How can one know how much frames he will need?

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Why for goodness sake would anyone need this? It will be a pain if a camera stops shooing in the middle of a series. How can one know how much frames he will need?

Its very simple: try imagine shooting a small kid running around - he/she stops - then runs again..So i decide - ok now I shoot 1 frame - hes still - Bang. Ok - now hes running - interesting - 1,2,3, bang - I'll choose the best.

This is the way ALL the sports photographers shoot sports : THEY chose for how long how many frames in what cycle High or normal or slow - they take. 

All without filling my card with unnecessery pics that I dont want - and without going through all of this deleting sorting.

 

Simple as that.

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Can't you just take your finger of the shutter when the kid stops running?

Yes, you can of course. But the Fuji implementation of burst is much more aggressive than the ones I have tried before (Pentax and Nikon). With these I can take a single pic in CH or a series and control it really well. With Fuji X-T1 I always get a few frames more than I really want. You have to try it with the other brands to understand the difference.

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Yes, you can of course. But the Fuji implementation of burst is much more aggressive than the ones I have tried before (Pentax and Nikon). With these I can take a single pic in CH or a series and control it really well. With Fuji X-T1 I always get a few frames more than I really want. You have to try it with the other brands to understand the difference.

I recon that's because when they figure you want to shoot a burst of frames, you want to shoot a burst of frames, not one.  Just because something doesn't work like Pentax or Nikon, doesn't mean that something needs to be fixed..

 

You are taught in the military to learn how to shoot a controlled 3 shot burst on a fully automatic rifle.  I think you all need to work on controlling your bursts rather than complain that Fuji has their burst modes wrong because you can't shoot one frame in burst mode... :rolleyes:

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I want to shoot a burst and of course controll how many in a burst. Simply :I want to controll the way I shoot.

There's a little dial on top. It switches from Continuous High, Continuous Low, to single shot mode. If you need more control than that, then I suggest you wait for the Fuji XT-N which contains a neural interface that might possibly be able to figure out what the hell would make you happy..

 

Try talking to sports photographers or paparazzi, I assure you they would know why they need this.

I've never heard any of them complain that their camera shoots bursts in burst mode.

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There's a little dial on top. It switches from Continuous High, Continuous Low, to single shot mode. If you need more control than that, then I suggest you wait for the Fuji XT-N which contains a neural interface that might possibly be able to figure out what the hell would make you happy..

 

I've never heard any of them complain that their camera shoots bursts in burst mode.

Have you ever tried a Nikon in burst mode? It doesn't have a neural interface and it just works better.

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There's a little dial on top. It switches from Continuous High, Continuous Low, to single shot mode. If you need more control than that, then I suggest you wait for the Fuji XT-N which contains a neural interface that might possibly be able to figure out what the hell would make you happy..

It's unlikely that neural interface will help. There will always be moaners. That's not about this problem because I am no way a sports photographer neither a paparazzi. Otherwise I definitely won't be using mirrorless.

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There's a little dial on top. It switches from Continuous High, Continuous Low, to single shot mode. If you need more control than that, then I suggest you wait for the Fuji XT-N which contains a neural interface that might possibly be able to figure out what the hell would make you happy..

 

 

I've never heard any of them complain that their camera shoots bursts in burst mode.

Crausmus, you probably didn't understand the subject, generally it's about poor responsiveness in cont. modes.

Some advice practicing some don't see a point in being able to stimply put: being able to stop a burst at exact moment.

Other companies implementation is just better. Thats all.

 

I'm not paparazzi either, but because this function doesn't work for me I gave up using it ,like others gave up too.

If you satisfied with necessity of switching to CH when one should be focused on taking fast action pics ,that's OK, it's just that not everyone is.

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It's unlikely that neural interface will help. There will always be moaners. That's not about this problem because I am no way a sports photographer neither a paparazzi. Otherwise I definitely won't be using mirrorless.

Dis, it's not only about you, and certainly not about you being paparazzi, try to read in a positive way, trying to understand what others want to say. and it's not about moaners either. It's about how some of us see the best implementation of a function.

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Torturro, you are absolutely right!

 

I don’t see why one photographer ( or more as we’ve seen in this thread) shouldn’t want to use this camera in the way he or she prefers, the question, as I see it, is whether the camera can do what one wants or not .

 

 

Again this is not something that I normally do, I prefer shooting in sigle shots. But I am not an action photographer by any stretch of imagination.

 

I have especially attempted for the purpose of this original query, to see if I could control the amount of shots in continuous mode and I did succeed, and that happened despite my reduced finger top dexterity due to the consequences of carpal tunnel syndrome.

 

The only thing that makes my camera different from any other X-T1 has to be, in this respect, the extra large, soft release button.

 

This is way bigger than a normal one is and I think the key to the X-T1 operating this way.

 

Am I absolutely sure that this is it? No.

 

But a Lolumina would cost very little and you soon will find out.

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FWIW I just tried and I'm 90% sure that there's no way to INTENTIONALLY stop it from taking two shots in CL mode. 

 

With my X-T10 the ONLY way to get one shot in CL is when the camera lags for some reason, which is mostly random and thus completely uncontrollable. 

 

Specifically I can get one shot in AF-S when I tap the shutter all the way down without locking focus. In that case I hear the lens (35mm f/1.4) focusing, then one shot.

 

If I first lock focus, then push the shutter I ALWAYS get two shots. If I set it to M focus I ALWAYS get two shots. 

 

Is there someone here who can get one shot in CL with manual focus? That's the real test IMHO. 

 

---

 

Separately +1 to 95mb/s cards. I had a 35mb/s card I thought was as fast as the camera, but at least with the X-T1 I rented (because the X-T10 hadn't been released yet) there was a significant difference in the write time (orange/green flashing light after a burst of shots) when I used the 95mb/s card. If the real problem is write time then it will make a difference. 

 

Not sure if it applies equally to the X-T10, which has a smaller buffer and worse i/o overall, but I'm sold for life now, no more cards that aren't at least 95mb/s and in the future I'll buy the fastest card my camera supports. 

 

If the real problem was having two shots to manage in LR when you only needed one, then you're SOL, get used to using the Drive dial and/or living with single-shot. 

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I can get one shot on CL and CH. Said so on the first page of this thread.

 

I said "with manual focus". Maybe you had the camera on manual focus while testing, but you didn't mention it in your post, so IF you had mentioned it it would be new information. 

 

You didn't mention it, so I still don't know if anyone can get one shot in CL and manual focus.

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I see...

 

tried it again, all manual (iso, shutter speed, aperture full open, focus), it's possible to get one shot in CL consistently, CH not so consistently, but doable.

 

Okay makes sense. I can do the same as long as the shutter is slower than 1/60. At 1/30 I can get single shots "consistently" whereby consistently I mean "by holding the camera funny and jerking my finger away which would give a blurry shot at 1/30". 

 

At 1/8 and everything manual I can actually get a consistent single shot, which is interesting and useless to know. 

 

So in summary: You cannot get a single shot in CL+AF-S mode  when focus is locked (shutter half-pressed+green box), but it is possible in very specific scenarios where the shutter speed is slow and you are jamming the shutter button down. 

 

As far as I'm concerned this is now even more a bug than before I participated in the thread. It's so impractical to get a single shot in CL that it might as well not be there. A feature that only works when you ignore the intended functioning of the camera (half pressing shutter to confirm focus before fully depressing it) is a broken or non-functioning feature. 

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Okay makes sense. I can do the same as long as the shutter is slower than 1/60. At 1/30 I can get single shots "consistently" whereby consistently I mean "by holding the camera funny and jerking my finger away which would give a blurry shot at 1/30". 

 

At 1/8 and everything manual I can actually get a consistent single shot, which is interesting and useless to know. 

 

So in summary: You cannot get a single shot in CL+AF-S mode  when focus is locked (shutter half-pressed+green box), but it is possible in very specific scenarios where the shutter speed is slow and you are jamming the shutter button down. 

 

As far as I'm concerned this is now even more a bug than before I participated in the thread. It's so impractical to get a single shot in CL that it might as well not be there. A feature that only works when you ignore the intended functioning of the camera (half pressing shutter to confirm focus before fully depressing it) is a broken or non-functioning feature. 

So he can do it in manual focus (when you said he couldn't) and now you are telling him he can't do it in Auto Focus (when you told him he had to do it in Manual?)???  Make up your mind.  What do you want people to achieve this in?  Auto or Manual?

 

How can you call it a bug that the camera shoots bursts in burst mode?  This is the most nonsensical conversation about continuous shooting modes that I think I have ever witnessed.  Learn trigger control.  It's your bug, not the cameras..

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