Jump to content

Fuji XT questions


Themistocles

Recommended Posts

I've always considered the XT 2,3, and now 4, to be the most beautiful cameras I've seen since the days of Contax. I have two questions about the XT cameras, which I haven't found answers to so far. The first is "why can't I find info about such popular cameras on dxomark, and the second is why do Fuji images typically appear darker than other cameras at the same iso's, shutter, and aperture's ? Thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

1. DxO refuses to have anything to do with X-Trans sensors. Until very recently, they refused to have anything to do with Fujifilm at all, even their Bayer-sensored cameras.

2. Fujifilm -- along with Olympus, Panasonic, and Ricoh/Pentax -- honors the traditional "18% gray" brightness target value. That brightness goal was set during the days of B&W photography, and we've learned that color photographs tend to look a bit "underexposed" at that brightness level. For that reason, Canon's DSLRs derate the ISO number, so that you get about one stop brighter image -- about 35% gray. Sony does the same, and Nikon changed over about a decade back. So the "Big 3" manufacturers all use an ISO rating system that produces images about a stop brighter than those produced by Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax.

What is measured as ISO 200 on the old "18% gray" plan is now being marked as ISO 100 by the big brands. In fact, when NIkon made the change, people commented about how Nikon DSLRs used to only go down to ISO 200 but now were going down to ISO 100. To get 18% gray on one of the big guy's cameras, you need to meter at twice the ISO that the camera is set to. [By the way, Canon tried the 18% gray target in the Rebel XTi/400D DSLR, and people complained about how dark its pictures were.]

When using in-camera metering on Fuji, the multi-zone metering runs about a stop brighter than the "dumb" metering modes. That way Fuji produces the same bright color images that the Big 3 manufacturers do -- in Multi metering mode. But the difference in brightness between in-camera metering modes catches a lot of people off-guard.

Personal opinion: the days of "18% gray" are behind us. Canon, Nikon, and Sony have long abandoned that standard, and virtually nobody has complained. It's probably time for Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax to make the change, too.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

To add to that: DxO claims that their unique noise reduction algorithms would have to be completely rewritten to use the x-trans de-mosaic pattern for Fuji camera's. Which can be a pain as Adobe Lightroom after all these years still shows...

As for the darker images, thanks for the explanation Doug. Very helpful to understand what goes on. Many Fuji shooters use the Exposure Compensation (set to +2/3rds of a stop) to correct. I correct images usually and only when needed in post. It's generally easier to recover details in the shadows, than in highlights, so I don't mind a bit darker images.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Hello. I have a x-s10 that I use multiple lenses with. Yesterday I noticed that with the Fujinon 16mm lens I'm having issues auto-focusing. It works on video but not for still images. When I half press the button it focuses a bit then when I release the button it snaps back to the previous focus point. Even though it manages to focus the image is still blurry. Any ideas please. I already did a a major google search and nobody has mentioned this issue. Thanks, Etienne   
    • X Raw Studio works with image files on your computer - not the image files on the camera card
    • Hello. Thankyou,now Is all more clear: I have take some time in your link. Let tell you. I has totaly forget this machine have "compress picture option" and not Only "compress lossless" anyway not change the experiment. RAW  and this last two format look like same result about Number of recording picture. Can tell all results in this: in raw you can make 17 pictures for second. Is wrong. Is about One single Press and wait buffer. Full 30/20/10/8 not change. After 17 Need Press again. You not can Press before "redgreen light recording Is on".   With preshot you can have 25  are more 7 pictures . The story change Only in jpg shot only. In jpg at 30 you have 30 picture but redgreen light off very Fast so you can shot very quicly. At 20 shot Is about start look like infinite shot. 60. So the best performance are this last One  about Speed and recording picture after camera working witout big limit. I want take a shot about Italy cyclet Just for passion. I think i Will use this last setting.  After Need check when battery not are full change and ambient temp.  Anyway my cam look like exactly specific about you link. Im Happy my cam working perfectly.
×
×
  • Create New...