By StudioB|PhotographyI switched over to Fuji from Nikon a few years ago and seem to have become quite a gear collector. When I used Nikon I had a Nikon D7200 and the 24mm f1.8, 35mm f1.8, 50mm 1.8, 85mm f1.8, and 60mm f2.8D lenses. Since moving to Fuji I have managed to obtain the following:
cameras: X-T3, X-T30, and recently the X100V
lenses: Laowa 9mm f2.8, Fuji 10-24mm, Fuji 16mm F2, Fuji 16mm f1.4, Fuji 16-80, Fuji 18-55, Fuji 23mm f2, Fuji 27mm, Fuji 35mm f2, Mitakon 35mm, Fuji 50mm F2, Fuji 56mm, Voigtlander 58mm f1.4, Fuji 55-200, and the Fuji 90mm (still also have the Nikon 60mm f2.8D).
So I love all of these lenses, but honestly have way too many to put them all to use as I should. I am wanting to move to a minimalist set up. I recently purchased the X100V and instantly fell in love with that camera. The one lens design has really helped me rediscover what I loved about photography upon first starting out. So the X100V is staying with me. So I am wanting to sell some of my excess and need some advice about what to keep. At the moment I am thinking about keeping the X-T3 with the Laowa 9mm, Fuji 16 f1.4, Fuji 56 f1.2, Fuji 90mm f2, Fuji 16-80mm, Mitakon 35mm, and Voigtlander 58mm f1.4 (just for the fun of manual focusing).
My question is, does this sound like a reasonable set-up? I really want to move away from zooms (except for the 16-80 for fun).
By willemvreyThe CH burst shooting speed on my XH1 seems to be way slower than it should be on the mechanical shutter.
I've never really used continuous shooting before, but I need it now for a specific project.
As far as i can tell from timing it with a stopwatch, I'm getting between 5 and 6 fps with the drive dial set to CH.
I have it set to 11fps in the shooting menu.
Battery grip attached with fully charged batteries, set to "boost". No difference between having the grip on or not.
I'm getting the same speed whether shooting raw or small JPEGs. It's much faster (around 11 fps) with the electronic shutter, but I can't use that for this project because of the (artificial) lighting conditions.
I remember my old Xt2 being much faster than this camera.
Am I missing a setting somewhere?
By matsonfamilyWhat real-time exposure display options are available with manual lenses? I am investigating Fuji, with an X-T1 and a manual lens (no contacts). I want to see what ISO and SS my camera has chosen, with the current lens settings. (I would also like to use program shift to change the ISO/SS combination up or down.) There may just be some setting somewhere that I didn't think applied to this? I have turned on all the display options and have tried the different displays, but no ISO or SS displayed unless I manually set them, or if I depress the shutter [but that's not real-time, as I change the aperture ring]. I have the newest firmware, and I have reset my camera's settings several times, so almost all my settings should be at the defaults.
I am very used to Olympus OM-D E-M1. On my OM-D camera, as I reduce the aperture on the lens, I see my ISO 200 / SS 1/30 move, maybe to 200 & 1/15. Then if I move it further, maybe this time it changes the ISO to 400 and keeps the SS at 1/15... but I see it all change as I move the aperture. If there's no clicks then I see it make minute even fractional changes to ISO & SS. Program shift via the front dial will also change the ISO/SS up and down.
By WillsMHey guys / gals,
First post on here.
I've had an x-h1 for a couple of years and it has been an amazing camera.
I recently started using its video functions, specifically the high speed 120fps functionality. Blown away by its crisp video.
So I decided I wanted an external monitor, to make things a bit easier. I got hold hold of a smallHD focus 5" monitor, runs off the HDMI output and has its own power source.
So everything was okay. The monitor is great. I have found a really odd bug though and I am wondering if anyone else might have come across this and has any thoughts / solutions.
High speed shooting has number of different modes, some at 120p, some at 100p. When I connect the monitor and select "EVF" only view using the display button on the right side of the viewfinder, then start recording at a mode which uses 120p, after about 9 - 20 seconds I get an error thrown in the display screen, showing "write error".
So if I connect a different monitor through the hdmi out, the problem is still there, so i know it is not the monitor that is the issue.
If I do not connect the external monitor, the problem never occurs.
I have raised a support ticket with fujifim, and they are looking into it, however I was wondering if anyone else has experienced issues like this? I am using 2 UHS 3 sony memory cards, brand new. Also have swapped them around in the slots. Run a health check on them also. I do not believe it to be a memory card issue at this time.
What is strange is that there seem to be 3 variables at play:
1. The output 120/100p in the high speed recording mode
2. The display mode being set to "EVF only".
3. An external monitor being plugged in
The reason I am setting the mode to EVF only, is to stop the camera from outputting the live picture to the LCD screen when I am filming. I am doing this to conserve battery life on the camera.
So it would seem that "EVF" mode + 120fps + an external montior = write error to the SD card. When the error occurs, the recording quits and this keeps happening unless I switch the mode to use the LCD screen OR i switch the mode to 100p OR i disconnect the external monitor! Bonkers right?!?!?!?!
Anyone had similar issues? Could it be the write speed on my SD cards? I am using sony M UHS 3 write speed 100MB/s, so can't see them underperfoming!
HELP!! I's doing my head in!
Dear Mihai, thanks for the write-up. I have no issues with cards but it can be useful for the ones who do.
This is excellent advice. The 50/f2 is one of my beloved lenses for my X-Pro2 and street photography. As a pro also doing workshops, I see a lot of people struggle with these so-called portrait lenses like the 50/f1, the 56/f1.2 or in full-frame the fast 85mm lenses (f1.4 or 1.2). Esp. when you're in a hurry like the short time you have when shooting portraits in the street. Many like to open up the aperture as wide as possible ending up with all sorts of focusing issues due to the shallow DOF.
Dear members and visitors, I have the same problem with steveblue and after I read all of your posts I finally concluded. I just wrote a friendly table, so everyone can read and understand it, with real examples. I can't cover all combinations but those I have tried is enough to understand your needs for your case and to apply them for the best solution: Apple Computers Memory Cards Compatibility Card Reader (internal or external) new + OS new