Jump to content

Pelican Case useres?


Recommended Posts

Hello!

Wondering if there are any Pelican case owners that use them to carry/ store their Fuji gear.

I'm Basically looking into something small and light, that's why I have my eye set on the 1485 Air Case, but the TrekPak version as to get as much stuff in as possible.

Right now my fuji kit is small, but by the end of the year it will consist of 2 X bodies, 5 primes (some f2 some 1.4) 2 Speedlights and a whole bunch of accessories.

Anyone with some first hand experience with the case or anything similar?

Cheers!

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am using a Peli case for storage of my gear.

1x Body XT-3

1x Lens Samyang 12mm/F2

1x Lens XF16-55mm/F2.8

1x Lens XF23mm/F2

1x Lens XF27mm/F2.8

1x Lens XF35mm/F2

1x Lens XF50mm/F2

1x Lens XF50-140mm/F2.8

and some smaler stuff like charger, batteries, flash, remote trigger and straps.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I just bought a Pelican Air 1535 with TrekPak for travel purposes. This is the maximum size for carry-on and has the typical carry-on handle and wheels like any luggage would. It will arrive next week.

I will attempt to hold my 2 bodies, 3-6 lenses (no telephoto yet), and drone and all the accessories. I don't think I can fit my webill S gimbal, but we'll see.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I have a pelican 1510 for travel purposes; the retractable handle and roller wheels are great features and fits in the overhead nicely.  It’s waterproof and floats, so it’s my go to for camping or whitewater rafting.   I originally used it for my canon gear, but need to get new foam inserts for retasking it for the Fuji stuff.  kindly ignore the poor space utilization.

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 


 

Edited by Edp
Add image, add more info.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Same, 1510 for storage of all main gear, a Storm i1200 for Macro related gear. Never take them out of the house except for the odd road trip where I need to secure the case with a cable like in a sketchy hotel or whatnot. Lately I have been thinking of getting a teeny case with plucked foam just for the X-T5 and the 27+50 f/2. Like a Seahorse 230.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • HI Rufo, I have changed procedures.  I now use the colors space transform (CST) as my first node.  The CST is set up as follows: - Apply the CST effect to the first node. - Color Space is Rec 2020 - Input gamma is FLog - Output color space is Rec 709 - Output gamma is Gamma 2.4 All other nodes to grade the clip proceed the node that contains the color space transform. Hope this helps. Don
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

      Ohio River, Kentucky - Indiana, USA Ohio River, indiana - Kentucky, USA
    • Interesting, and a bit subtle. I also think it'd be better to activate on a half press. But there seems to be good reasoning behind a number of other choices, so I wonder if there's a good reason behind this one and we're just not seeing it. To some degree IS goes on and off like AF does, but this is an exception, isn't it?
    • I couldn't find my manual so downloaded a PDF copy and did some searching.  From p146 of the manual, regarding Shooting Only stabilisation: "Image stabilization enabled only when the shutter button is pressed halfway (focus mode C) or the shutter is released." So it appears that the camera is 'working as intended' and that in AF-S the stabilisation mechanism kicks in only as you release the shutter. I think I would prefer it to activate on a half press, like it does in AF-C.
    • Sometime a short break can help to phrase things so that they do not sound annoying, Well that is the hope anyway, so here goes. Having that meter would be nice as well as having the histogram. But having them or not is a minor consideration in terms of what you are wanting to do because the app does not work with intervalometers. The only way you can get a time lapse sequence using the app is to manually click the shutter button, wait then click it again and so on. Even if the meter were there, you would need extremely fast reflexes to see and react to a lighting change by changing the settings and then going back to clicking the shutter button. Doing that for hours would be a feat indeed. The equipment you mention does this by analyzing several past images and predicting what settings to apply to the next incoming image. Right now the app has the live view which will tell you if an area is over or under exposed, but as far as what you are wanting to do without being able to connect the app to an intervalometer, well …
×
×
  • Create New...